| Author | Message | ||
     Ccryder |
I was just cruising down 840 this AM at 85mph. I had just passed 3 bikes and......... something didn't feel right, more vibration, speedo didn't jive with GPS, handlebars felt locked!!! Within about 5 secs I was looking for a place to slow down and get stopped(Mental checklist): 1) Whose is going to run me over? 2) Are there any soft places to land? 3) What will they tell my Wife? (now to the serious stuff) 4) Slowly back off the throttle and see how she acts (no real change in handling). 5) Use a little body english to get over in right lane. 6) I'm in luck there's an exit ramp that goes up hill to slow me. (Everything I did was slow and purposeful to try and keep everything balanced and calm, it worked!!) I got stopped on the shoulder without anything unusual happening (BIG Whew!!!!). So that was the hard stuff, now to figure out how to get home. With 7,500+ miles on this tire I opted to go for a new tire. Cycle Gear is having a 20% off sale on all tires and they had a PR2 in stock (best luck of the day). They also offer a road hazard warranty. It's ~$25 a tire and covers 100% if there is 75% tread left. After that it's pro-rated. I figured that if I bought it would assure I would not have another flat ;+}. I got her home and tomorrow I'll put my No-Mar to good use. I am curious as to what caused the flat but, I'll leave that for tomorrow. Later Neil S. | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
thats road hazzard work even if you hit a nail? | ||
| Pizzaboy |
you got 7500 miles on a rear tire??!?!??!!! do you ever RIDE your bike or just baby it??? i cant get 7500 out of a FRONT tire!!! i can only get 7500 miles out of a set of tires if you take the front mileage and rear mileage and then add the numbers together! (Message edited by pizzaboy on July 26, 2009) | ||
| Jdugger |
7500 miles... I know... It's hard to imagine the incredible set of factors that leads to someone getting more than 7 times the mileage on the same tire and bike! I got 3 track days and 600 miles out of my last one... shreadded on the left sides, with some center and right left. Brand new Corsa III on the street? 'bout a thousand miles, tops. The faster I ride, in particular the corners, the shorter the tires last. | ||
| Ccryder |
Road hazard works for slicing, dicing, poked or, punctured. It's not for a manufacturing defect. I'm running the Michelin Pilot Road 2's, not the Corsa III. With 25,000 s'miles, I'd be very poor man, just from the tires! Yeah they don't grip as well as the Corsa III, but on the street, they are VERY good. | ||
| Dougshd |
I need a rear tire and was wondering can i run a michelin pilot road 2 on the rear and keep my original pirelli on the front till that needs replacing (i only ride on the street and got 4000 out of my rear tire) thanks | ||
| Ccryder |
The PR2 will work with the Corsa III, of course not as good as with a matching PR2. | ||
| Dougshd |
Thanks Ccryder, thats what i thought but wanted to be sure | ||
| Brent1125russ |
Neil, Thanks for posting your experience, it was good to get a refresher on what to do when a tire goes down....ride like you are on ice: smooth, subtle, and safely. | ||
| Ccryder |
Brent: That's why I posted this "incident". It had been at least 4 or 5 years and 100,000 miles since I had a flat while riding. I try and practice different emergency scenarios but this one is not one that can be practiced. I know what you mean by riding on ice, unfortunately I've been there done that and almost went down. It's not so much like riding on ice but, not knowing how the m/c was going to react. That's why it was important to quickly determine what would happen when making slow changes in any inputs: throttle, handlebars, brakes, footpegs or, body position. There are many variables that come into play from: size of hole, tire size, speed, temperature, road conditions, just to name a few. That is why my first thought was to determine how the m/c was going to handle and then find where I wanted to go. It worked for me this time, I hope it works for you when the time comes. Time2Run Neil S. | ||
| Orman1649 |
I went to pull my CR out of the garage on Friday and it seemed a bit stiff rolling back. Rear tire had a nice hunk of metal right in the middle of the tire. I've never taken the tires off a bike but I'm fairly mechanically inclined so I decided I would give it a go....well, I didn't have a pitbull stand so I improvised a cherry picker & jackstands under the swingarm sliders. Found all the info I'd need here on the board including torque values for putting it all back together. I do have a question though....what should the clearance be like between the sprocket & the lower belt guard mount? I have everything tightened to specs and it seems awfully close....I need a shop manual :/ (Message edited by orman1649 on July 27, 2009) | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
Holy Crap! It's an epidemic! My Better Half and I were out riding yesterday, went to Barnes and Noble. Parked out front, and when I came back out I noticed something in the rear tire. A framing nail. Luckily, it went in at an angle, and went between the exterior rubber and the core of the tire. No leakie. R | ||
| Striperx3 |
There is no spec. but there needs to be clearance. Sometimes you can "tweak" the guard to get clearance, sometimes you have to space it over. BTW, did you catch the washers on the brake caliper mounting bolts? They don't like to fit through the hole in the rotor and usually fall to the floor unless you know they are there in the 1st place. | ||
| Orman1649 |
I got the washers, even thought they tried running and hiding when they hit the floor. The problem wasn't the clearance between the belt guard and the sprocket, it is between the rear belt guard mount (on the swingarm) and the sprocket. I should have taken a pic....maybe after work. | ||
| Bobby_fletcher |
I need a shop manual :/ I got both my manuals on ebay for $65....just thought I'd pass on some of my good fortune. (it doesn't come around much) | ||
| Orman1649 |
Mind takin a peek in there if you get a chance? This is the procedure I followed from another thread. Putting the wheel back on is the reverse of the dismount, but keep a couple things in mind: a) When putting the axle bolt back on: Rear axle is first tightened to 27 ft-lbs then backed out 720 degrees and re-tightened to 48-52 ft-lbs. Rear pinch bolts are tightened to 40-45 ft-lbs. Make sure you apply anti-seize on the axle before putting it back on. Avoid getting the anti-seize on the swingarm paint. It can be a pita to clean up! b) The caliper bolt torque spec is 18-20ft-lbs But like I said, the sprocket seems awfully close to the lower belt guard mounting point. |
