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Dr_greg
| | Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 08:52 pm: | 
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The Grand Tetons.
Having escaped from Yellowstone and heading south on the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway, I approached the Grand Tetons. Pretty impressive!
Heading south through Jackson was a little reminiscent of Yellowstone...lots of traffic. But it was still a beautiful day and I made it.
Best. Campsite. Ever.
Riding south from Jackson the question came up of where to camp for the night. My map indicated a campground on 189 (my direction of travel), but also two campgrounds on 89 (not my direction of travel). Since it wasn't late, I figured I'd ride down 189 to see if a campground existed, and if not, backtrack to 89.
Well, I was in the National Forest,
And I found the campground. Virtually deserted (everyone up at Yellowstone). And I found THE campsite, right on the Hoback River:
This was my "swimmin' hole" aka the site for bathing au naturel! Just the thing after a frustrating, hard (not in miles, but in hours) day of riding. Man! I felt like I'd died and gone to Heaven!
Even the Uly was happy...New Mexico "Land of Enchantment" flag flying.
My campground "hosts"...Barb even sprayed off my body with bug spray (I was out) when I came up to pay my $15. Same price as KOA; no shower, but an even better BATH!
Sitting by the river reading and musing...roll on river, down the Hoback to the Snake, then on to the Columbia and the Pacific Ocean...on down the California Current to ???
I spent a wonderful evening there; come morning I didn't wanna leave. I guess I could have stayed another day, but---although I say I wasn't on a schedule---I do contract research in the summer and I had to work a certain number of days. That number of days left little room for dilly-dallying.
So Uly and I had to head out in the morning...
Mountain Man Museum (sigh)
Riding south toward Pinedale, I was confronted with this sign, which was flashing:
Some of you don't know, but I hit a deer on December 6, 2008 at 72 mph (GPS certified) which totaled my previous '06 Uly and added three more fractures to bring my total to ten. So I'm justifiably concerned about the dadgum forest rats...
Needless to say, at midday there were no deer. So why was the #$%&* sign flashing?! Don't cry wolf!
Pinedale, WY and the Mountain Man Museum. Or not.
Being interested in this period of history, one would think I'd stop here, right? Well, I went on by. For the next twenty miles I debated whether to go back, but kept on going. I've gotta go back; maybe next summer.
Continuing south on 189, the landscape began to remind me of the New Mexico southwest:
The southwest quadrant of Wyoming isn't the most picturesque part; in any event I didn't take any photos.
Stopped at Rock Springs for fuel, then continued south towards Vernal, Utah. The most noteworthy characteristic of entering Utah was that the speed limit dropped from 65 to 55 mph. Not a good sign.
I recalled the Flaming Gorge area from a trip I took through here while in high school (circa 1963); somehow it didn't seem as picturesque now. However, the country between Flaming Gorge and Vernal was unexpectedly mountainous and green (these photos don't really do it justice):
Made it to Vernal, Utah, where something was going on...
My 16-year old son Jeff has a ratty 1986 Toyota MR2; here's one in Vernal that's even rattier. Of course, THIS one runs...
Leaving Vernal on US 40 we head east on the Yampa Plateau towards Dinosaur, Colorado. At Dinosaur I turned south on CO 139 towards Grand Junction. I expected that segment to be dry desert country. At first that seemed correct; my initial impression of north-central Colorado was decidedly "mineral":
However, 40 miles north of Grand Junction the section of country near Douglas Pass (8,268 feet) was very bucolic:
Nowhere to camp in Grand Junction, it's all Agriculture and RV Parks!
True, indeed. However, I had a flash of insight. This was a "business" trip, right? So my employer will reimburse me for a motel going, a hotel at the conference, and a motel on the return. Say no more! I punched up "motel" on the good ol' GPS and we're home free! Um, it was also 97F at Grand Junction and a swimming pool sounded mighty good!
After a dip in the pool I felt half past human again. I may even finish this ride report.
Next: the last leg home through the San Juan Mountains of southwest Colorado!
--Doc |
Lady_asb
| | Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 10:14 pm: |
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Dr. Greg,
The areas around Pinedale, the Hoback, the Snake and the Grand Tetons were all part of a special trip for our family - thanks for bringing back some wonderful memories... We did stop at the Mountain Man museum, and it was worth the visit. We listened to a talk on the weapons of Indians, and they let us shoot a sawed-off Winchester (I think that's what it was at least). They had lots of other talks planned; if you're into the history of the area, you'd enjoy it...
You covered a lot of ground so far - thanks for sharing the story and pics!
Joanne |
Galloper
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 12:22 pm: |
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Doc, would it be possible to get a copy of your GPS track if you have one of your trip?
I've only been to New York and New Jersey (this month 20 years ago) and I would love to see what part of the USA you have ridden on Google Earth. |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 02:42 pm: |
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quote:Doc, would it be possible to get a copy of your GPS track if you have one of your trip?
I've only been to New York and New Jersey (this month 20 years ago) and I would love to see what part of the USA you have ridden on Google Earth.
It may be possible, although I don't have a real "track". I had GPS routing from Albuquerque to Spokane, but not all the segments of the return. I'll see what I can do.
--Doc |
Galloper
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 04:17 pm: |
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quote:
It may be possible, although I don't have a real "track". I had GPS routing from Albuquerque to Spokane, but not all the segments of the return. I'll see what I can do.
--Doc
Anything would be great...
I'll save my tracks next september and post it for download so it can be viewed on Google Earth and Mapsource 
(Message edited by Galloper on July 21, 2009) |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 09:05 pm: |
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The Final Segment...Home in is Sight!
After settling in the Ramada Inn, and taking an extended dip in the pool, the issue of dinner arose. After my typical fast food burger for lunch, I wasn't very hungry. Soooo, head for the vending machine! I got spoiled by the hotel vending machines in Japan...they all have beer! Oh well, I still had some bourbon left, so that, plus...let's see...as I recall a bag of chips and a candy bar made a fine meal!
Slept almost as well as by the Hoback River, but not quite. Nothing beats a river or stream...
The Ramada actually had a better-than-average breakfast bar, including---YUM---breakfast burritos! However, after eating too much I was actually not up for anything besides a little bowl of cereal (my standard breakfast at home). Sigh. Well, I guess that's one method to prevent becoming too "heavy-set" as my good friend Gale says.
The Route Home...Dr. Greg Wimps Out.
Now I've never gone through Naturita, CO and on through on CO 145, and I had a route planned to do that: south from Grand Junction on 50 then south on 141 (which cut back almost to Utah), then 145 on through to Ridgway, then 550 to Ouray, Silverton, Durango, etc. At 522 miles it wasn't too bad.
But I guess I was tired. When I got on the bike and headed out, it took me a while to get through the "old" part of Grand Junction, and when I finally got on 50...there was a stiff headwind (as usual on this trip...I'll summarize in the "Epilogue"). So I wimped out and punched up the "GO HOME" button on the Zumo.
The resulting route was less than 400 miles, and still included the heart of the San Juan Mts., so I wasn't disappointed.
There was a fire burning north of Grand Junction, but nobody seemed concerned. Maybe it was controlled.
US 50/550 through Delta and Montrose isn't too scenic, so no pictures there. As I began to approach Ouray things started to improve...
Ouray is ahead right at the base of all those mountains.
I had a bad case of "wanna be home" fever, so I didn't stop in Ouray. Always seems like those places are crawling with tourists (like Red River, NM...way more Texans than New Mexicans in the summer). I like solitude better. So no pics of Ouray, sorry.
San Juan Mountains of southwest Colorado.
From a bicycle tour I took from Steamboat Springs, CO to Albuquerque, NM back in the early 80s (during which I crossed the Continental Divide about 20 times) I believe the San Juans are the prettiest mountains in Colorado.
Don't wanna make a mistake here; it's a long ways down...
I was surprised at the lack of traffic; of course it was a weekday. But still...very nice! The Uly and I were having a great time doubling (or close) most of the curve warning signs. Um, that was on the downhill and flats; on the climbs we were both struggling for air a bit! For an undersquare engine, the ol' Thunderstorm 1203 likes to spin (of course "spin" is somewhat relative...like 4,500 rpm is "spinning").
On the climb out of Silverton I caught up to a rider with camping gear on some kind of what I thought might be an ADV-style bike (at least it wasn't a Harley or Wing). I was looking forward to hooking up with him and doin' some corner carving, but he turned off at the viewpoint on top. Rats. I like riding alone but sometimes it's fun to hook up with someone through the curves (like those sportbike riders on CA 299).
Durango, CO and the First "Mechanical" Issue.
Well, not really. I stopped for gas at the southern edge of Durango, and afterwards went inside for a soda (it was HOT). I stopped maybe 30 minutes and when I went out and hit the start button: BZZZZZ! I shoulda been expecting it, since the last few days the starter would sometimes hesitate for a second before cranking. And I know that means the battery is going, Going, now it's GONE!
Fortunately there was a guy nearby with a Mini (the car) who had jumper cables and got me going pronto. I swear I took his picture but I can't find it! He was definitely not the typical Mini owner; looked like a blue-collar guy who grew up the hard way. But a very helpful and cool guy nonetheless.
Between Durango and Albuquerque I had only one more stop: Cuba, New Mexico. I thought ahead and resolved to shut the engine off for the minimum possible time and hope that it restarted. The gas station I'd stop at was quite busy and I was confident I could find someone with jumper cables if need be.
Cuba, New Mexico, where Dr. Greg meets the Rainbow Family and Sees his first Certified Meth-Freak!
When I pulled into the Shell gas station (with attached Mickey D's) in Cuba, I focused on fueling up with the least downtime. When I hit the button the Uly fired immediately. All right! I then left it to idle while I went inside to relieve myself. While emerging, I was panhandled by a couple young hippies. "That's unusual in Cuba," I thought. Back at the bike, I looked around; there were probably 20 or so hippies (and the like) hanging around. WTF? Never seen that before! Turns out the "Rainbow Family" had their annual July 4 "gathering" at the Parque Venado area in the Santa Fe National Forest nearby and these were some of the stragglers.
I shot a surreptitious picture of some of the young vagabonds. Quite the zany bunch! No doubt they were planning some hijinks for the evening...
While I was donning my helmet (Uly still dutifully idling) a newish pickup with construction equipment in the back pulled up in front of me (temporarily blocking my egress). A young man poked his "head" out the window, and started conversing with another.
I HAVE NEVER SEEN ANYONE THAT LOOKED LIKE THAT IN MY LIFE!!! It was like someone had painted skin on a skull. He was wearing a muscle shirt, and his shoulder bones protruded; the tissue underneat was almost nonexistent. It was like seeing Death Walking. Oh. My. God.
He was grinning and talking...I was almost physically ill. I really wanted to take his picture but I was afraid he'd come over and kill me and drink my blood.
Finally he pulled his truck up to the curb and his passenger emerged...looked JUST LIKE HIM!!
I guess I lead a sheltered life. When I rode out of Cuba, the feel of the air, the look and smell of sagebrush, and the blue sky never seemed to feel so good. Man!
Further south on US 500 the country looked familiar: New Mexico USA (that's what our license plates have since most people think New Mexico is a foreign country).
Home at Last!
I texted ahead and Mrs. Greg snapped my picture as I rolled down our street (neck permanently tilted cuz of a 1972 crash):
After kissing Mrs. Greg and stripping off my gear, I was workin' out 4,165 miles of kinks: AHHHH!
Please stay tuned for the "Epilogue"...coming SOON!
--Doc |
Iamike
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 10:22 pm: |
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Doc-
What day were you on 550 by Ouray? We were headed north last Thursday from Durango and I thought I saw an orange Uly. I was on my ST1300.
I also saw one the Sunday before while going up Trailridge R. |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 02:35 pm: |
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quote:What day were you on 550 by Ouray? We were headed north last Thursday from Durango and I thought I saw an orange Uly. I was on my ST1300.
That would have been Wednesday, July 8. Coulda been me.
--Doc |
Hooper
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 02:39 pm: |
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I'm fascinated by your pictures of the random strangers and clerks you encountered. How do you broach the photo: "I'd like to take your picture for my ride report...there are hundreds of weird motorcyclists out there in cyberspace that really get into this kind of detail. Do you mind?"
Great report. I'm getting antsy for a trip now. The one bummer is that there are so many photos in one post that my computers (tried two) can't download all the shots, so I can't see many of them. Maybe it's time for a new machine.
I remember stopping in Dinosaur, CO (actually, it's next door, in Jensen, UT)...
Hmmm, beasts of a similar color.
(Message edited by hooper on July 22, 2009) |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 08:30 pm: |
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quote:I'm fascinated by your pictures of the random strangers and clerks you encountered. How do you broach the photo: "I'd like to take your picture for my ride report...there are hundreds of weird motorcyclists out there in cyberspace that really get into this kind of detail. Do you mind?"
Usually I don't even ask. I just shoot (except for the American Indian in Flagstaff). Nobody cares. I tell them "you're gonna famous; you're gonna be on the Internet!"
You have two great pictures there; let's see more! Don't quite understand your problem with pictures & computer, but I never was a very smart guy...
--Doc |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 08:35 pm: |
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Epilogue.
This trip was 4,165 miles in length; nothing compared to even the "typical" ride on ADV, but I enjoyed it. A few final observations...
2006 Ulysses...the second time around.
The Uly was perfect. This is my second '06, and it seems like another good one. Absolutely not one thing went wrong (except for the battery). Never opened my tool kit. I do carry a spare belt and the tools to change it (an easy roadside job). Great bike! Between both Ulys I've put 65,000 miles on them. Never left me stranded (but close when then spark plug blew out on my first one).
Motorcycles I Saw.
If one judged US motorcycle sales by the bikes seen on my trip, one would conclude that the only company in existence was Harley-Davidson. Harleys outnumbered the other bikes on my trip by about 50-to-1. Honestly. I saw one Strom, a couple Wings, and something I couldn't identify. All the rest were Harleys. In large packs, small packs, and solo. That was the reality. Perhaps all the ADV riders were on the dirt roads.
Riding Pace.
Never met anyone maintaining a "spirited" pace through the curves (like I ride) except the two sportbikes I hooked up with on CA 299. Everyone else was just cruising. Speed limit or lower. So either I'm out of line, or I got a bad sample.
Interaction from ADVrider.com.
Perhaps I should have titled my ride "Dr. Greg's Tour de American West" or the like. But I was very disappointed in the interaction I got on the ADVrider.com forum (better response on BadWeB although still not what I hoped for). Maybe the "Uly" in the title turned everyone off on ADV. Sometimes seems that forum doesn't care unless you ride a GS. Oh, well....I guess my Texas trip a year ago last spring did better (less going on that time of year).
If you enjoyed my tale and feel motivated, let me know. That might encourage me to write another. I cross-posted this entire report to both ADV and BadWeB. That was actually very easy, except I couldn't include any emoticons cuz they're quite different between forums.
Later,
--Doc |
Iamike
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 08:49 pm: |
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Doc-
Great pictures, thanks, it gives me ideas about where I want to go next. I saw quite a few other bikes than just Harleys but I agree on the speed. Except for 2 Buells and a Suzy that passed me coming down Red Mountain I was doing most of the passing.
I would like to try a Uly on a long ride to see how it compares with the ST. I'm sure weight-wise it wins hands down. I was trying to figure out how to buy one when I ran across an almost new VFR for a great price and couldn't pass it up. |
Lens
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 10:52 pm: |
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Doc -
Wow! Great report, and very encouraging for me to continue on my plans for a trip next summer. Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to post such a long and detailed story!
Len |
Hammer71
| | Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 08:53 am: |
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I've gotta move Westward |
Roadcouch98
| | Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 11:35 am: |
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Doc,
Approximately what did You get for MPG's on Your trip?
And how much weight You/Load/Bike were You carrying?
thanks,
Roadcouch98 |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 11:55 am: |
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Epilogue epilog.
forgot one item of interest...the wind...
Do you like Headwinds?
Then do the ride I did here...I had headwinds probably 90% of the time. All the way across the NM, AZ, and CA desert; really bad all the way up the CA, OR, and WA coast; not too bad east across WA but still there; pretty bad heading SSE down WY, UT, CO. And the last day they were bad enough to be one factor in altering my route.
I should have known about the West Coast winds from my 1971 bicycle trip. Of course I have an engine! But the Uly---even with the Laminar Lip---doesn't have wind protection like a big tourer (I really wouldn't want that).
Probably I'm just a wimp, but the almost incessant headwinds did begin to wear on me. With the RSS robot conference and all, it would have been difficult to do this trip in the CCW direction THIS time, but if I do it again it's darn sure gonna be CCW!
And thanks, guys, for the comments. I tend to think that if nobody chimes in with comments along the way then nobody gives a hoot. Of course my friends (what few I have) will read the thing. I'll call off the pity party!
--Doc |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 12:02 pm: |
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quote:Approximately what did You get for MPG's on Your trip?
And how much weight You/Load/Bike were You carrying?
Well, the bike weighs 515 lb. I weigh 155 lb + say 10 lb for riding gear (?). I'd estimate about 75 lb of stuff I was carrying (yeah, I take too much).
So maybe 750 lb total? Mas o menos...
I was getting mileage in the 40-50 mpg range. Going up the West Coast was less due to the incessant headwinds (had to use 4th gear almost entirely). My previous '06 Uly did a little better (engine broken in harder...it was a demo bike). But I still have that engine and it'll go in when this one wears out! 
--Doc |
Roadcouch98
| | Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 12:18 pm: |
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Doc,
Thanks for the response and might I add what a fantastic trip You brought all of us on.So many photos and narratives.
That is a Good fact to know as I like Trivia and sounds to me like pretty decent mileage
for a motorcycle and load that looks to be not very aerodynamic and using ancient engine technology (which I prefer myself).
Thanks again,
Roadcouch98 |
Hemibee
| | Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 02:25 pm: |
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Doc,
Thanks for taking us along with you on the ride, I really enjoyed it. Hope you don't mind, I borrowed the photo of your iPhone eBook reader to answer a question on another forum.
Again thanks for taking us along....Where and when is our next journey?
Hemibee |
Road_kill
| | Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 09:43 pm: |
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Thanks Doc,
I always enjoy your RR's. Great pics, descriptions, and story telling. The accounts of the people you meet along the way, both friends and strangers, are refreshing. Many RR's exclude this very interesting aspect of the ride. Riding solo you meet more people than when riding in a group IMHO. |
Cyclonedon
| | Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 11:38 pm: |
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Doc, once again, a great ride with pictures and interesting write-up about your trip. I hope you have many more and take us along again with your pictures!
Don |
Dickc
| | Posted on Friday, July 24, 2009 - 12:44 pm: |
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Thanks for the RR Doc... I also followed your report on ADV although I do not post often... lurker. |
Zzaped
| | Posted on Friday, July 24, 2009 - 01:59 pm: |
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Hi Doc loved the report especially your camp site next to the river. But a question in your first picture you have the Uly on a lift I was wondering if you could post a pic of the jig holding the bike. |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Friday, July 24, 2009 - 03:04 pm: |
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quote:i Doc loved the report especially your camp site next to the river. But a question in your first picture you have the Uly on a lift I was wondering if you could post a pic of the jig holding the bike.
Sure. This is simply a wooden bracket I bandsawed out and screwed/glued up. The profile to fit the muffler was put online by someone a while back. I'll PM it to you.
--Doc |
Madduck
| | Posted on Friday, July 24, 2009 - 04:26 pm: |
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Doc,
Really enjoy your travels, hard to believe my last real ride was 2006, bringing my 06 Uly back from LA where Ferris used to live. Ill health, racing and too much work have all conspired to keep me from wandering. I was going thru some of my old logs with a couple of my nephews kids and the trips don't seem real anymore. I went most of 8,000 miles to have a Meyer Day-Long seat made for my Honda CX-500 by the master himself. Met more wonderful people on that trip than usual, was dropping off antique motorcycle parts thru Canada for a friend. Nothing big but all of them unobtanium from old Indian racing motorcycles. None of my family really understands the urge to just go some where far away. I have one nephew that seems to be catching the bug, Buell 12SS seems to have brought out the urge. I've showed him the tricks used to ravel real light. All that you need these days is a phone, GPS and a backpack.
Fool kid ended up in Boulder a couple of weeks ago and had met some wonderful people all along the way. Everyone seemed to know what a Buell was too.
You should read thru Ferris's trip in the archives, thats a traveling man. |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Sunday, July 26, 2009 - 08:24 pm: |
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quote:you should read thru Ferris's trip in the archives, thats a traveling man.
I've read it; followed it while it happened. Didn't everybody?
--Doc |
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