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Slickshoes19
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 09:44 pm: |
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My wife threw out my issue of either sport rider or motorcyclist. Aaron Frank has written in both I'm pretty sure but he's my exact height and weight and he had his recommended suspension settings listed in the mag. Since I'm not versed in the art of suspension tuning I was going to just adjust my susp to his after purchasing a torque wrench and gaining access to a lift. Well I have both now but my wife disposed of the mag. Does anyone have that issue and those settings? I know it was probably around March of this year or so. I have searched the Internet to no avail so I hope this works. Thanks for any help. |
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Ccryder
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 09:46 pm: |
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How is your bike set up now? Good place to start is the suggested setting in the Owners manual for your weight. |
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Badlionsfan
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 09:48 pm: |
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off topic, but why do you need a lift and a torque wrench to set the suspension? (Message edited by badlionsfan on July 19, 2009) |
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R2s
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 10:40 pm: |
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From what I remember they were off a bit in the direction they went. They lowered the forks 10mm to be flush with the top clamp and said it made the bike steer like a 1098. That would make the bike turn in slower, also it turns out that all the teams are lowering the front, rising the forks. Most people and me included are just adjusting in a bit more sag in the front for quicker steering. So far what seems the most poplar setting correct me if I'm wrong is 35mm front and 25mm rear sag and start with the rebound and compression settings from the table in the manual. |
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Slickshoes19
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 11:17 pm: |
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My bike is set at the stock settings. I adjusted everything once before to the settings that Mr. Frank suggested, except for making the forks flush with the triple clamps, and it did make quite a difference. It fell into turns easier at Frank's settings than in stock form. In addition, in stock form it needs near constant pressure on the bar through the turn whereas when it was set up like his I only needed the initial push. The only problem was at speed in a straight line the bike wabbled it's head. After reading a suspension setup book my buddy had I found out not lowering the forks in the triple clamps can yield this symptom. Since I had no lift to lift the front of the bike up to lower the forks or a torque wrench to put the clamps at the right torque, I skipped that step. |
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Rsh
| Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 11:44 pm: |
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These are the suspension settings Sport Rider Magazine used: SUGGESTED SUSPENSION SETTINGS FRONT Spring preload: 12 turns out from full stiff; rebound damping: 3 turns out from full stiff; compression damping: 2 turns out from full stiff; ride height: set fork tubes flush with triple clamps REAR Spring preload: position 5 from full soft; rebound damping: 4 turns out from full stiff; compression damping: 20 clicks out from full stiff |
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Slickshoes19
| Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 06:48 pm: |
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Thanks a bunch. |
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Clarkjw
| Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 07:35 pm: |
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According to Higbee, the front is too high, not too low. He even uses rear offsets. Since he's the fastest guy on a Buell, I'd listen to him. Also, why would you wanna eat all your travel by setting preload so deep? Mine (205lbs in gear) Front Preload: 6 from full if you have trouble turning in or have to push too hard to hold a line, add a full turn. Front Rebound/Compresssion: BASED ON 35mm sag. Start with stiffest then work by .25 turns. Adjust for comfort. Should be taut, but not harsh. medium bumps should be noticed, but not distracting. This is so important for feel, I'm not gonna tell you my exact numbers (range is 3 and 3) Rear preload: 1, or highest setting. I like a high ass and long travel Compression/Rebound: 21 clicks, 3 turns. Really should be based on sag. |
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