| Author | Message | ||
     Court |
>>>There was a very small batch of S1s that did/do indeed require removing the brake rotor to get the caliper off. That is an accurate statement.... | ||
| Lornce |
Anyone wanna trade one of the more pedestrian examples for this 'special' low production model? Maybe put it on e-bay.... smirk, Lornce | ||
| Roc |
Can you fix that by useing a file on the caliper? | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Speaking of calipers, I did my 10k service today on the S2. The manual says the front caliper will come off but I had to pull the rotor to get it off (needed to mount a new tire). So I guess I need to think about shopping for a new rotor AND caliper? The time I spent bleeding the brakes alone (had to disconnect everything) was unfortunate. I take it Buell changed calipers (from the 6 pot PM) to address this issue? Between that and having to pull the muffler to drain the primary and adjust primary tension made for a long day in the garage... | ||
| Lornce |
Thanks for the info Henrik, the confirm Court and the company of misery Jim Sb.  Just to be sure I wasn't doing something wrong I had another go tonight. On the '98 S3T if I cock the caliper, the rotor will bear on the pads forcing the pistons to retract into the caliper and allow it to be angled for removal from the rotor. On the '96 S1, this isn't possible. Roc, would require a sizable amount of material removal to suit: am content to remove the rotor from the carrier. It'll make tire changing easier anyway.... Have yet to encounter a quirk that's put me off the bikes. Just learning the 'special needs' is all. Every brand has em.... Lornce | ||
| Shot_Gun |
Jim from SB. Remove the pads from the caliper first. Then put masking tape or suitable equivilent on the rim. You should be able to get the caliper off with out all the drama. I have done it 5 times now and am getting pretty good at it. Some times you need to compress the pistons befor rermoving the old brake pads. I'm not sure if the marchesi wheels are different. I have the pm's. Best of luck. SG | ||
| Rick_A |
I have a '96 S1...caliper comes off no problem with the pads out. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
SG, I have the FSM. I followed it verbatim including removing the pads. Tried depressing the pistons too. I will *definitely* be using masking tape next time as well. I'll be more persistent next time. In the future I'd still rather get a 6 pot caliper that easily slides right off if one exists. There's no end to reasonable enhancements I'd make that increase reliability or maintainability... Plus I need to figure out how to drain the primary without pulling the V&H SS2R... Despite it's idiosyncracies I still love the S2... | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Henrik, Nice web site. Those clip-ons look excellent. At 2.5" rise they are probably too low for my back though... | ||
| Rick_A |
Removing the master cylinder cover makes retracting the pistons easy...just don't let it overflow! I just purchased a new rotor and EBC Kevlar pads in the hopes this rotor lasts longer. It would've been nice if Buell kept with the cast iron with the new rotor design. | ||
| Dan |
Anybody have any experience with the new Pirelli Diablo? | ||
| Blake |
Rick, The EBC kevlar pads devoured my iron rotor in one track day (~120 miles). They are a lot grippier, but I'm going back to the stock pads. Would rather replace pads than the disk. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Rick_A, I followed the FSM so I fully drained the front brake line first. The good news is with new DOT 5 the front brake works better than ever. | ||
| Rick_A |
One track day...daaaamn. I thought they were supposed to wear better then the sintered metal. Most people agree that semi metallic don't perform as well in wet weather and full organic suck all around. The choices seem pretty limited. I like the one finger braking... When I bleed my brakes I like to suck out the contents of the master cylinder from above then bleed the line with fresh fluid until it comes out clean...it keeps from forming those pesky air pockets when the system is evacuated completely. My rotor is beyond wear limits ATM and the pads are almost to their wear limit...so my lever has a bit more travel than I'm used to. Just waiting on parts! | ||
| Grndskpr |
Anybody have an ideas on who sell tires for the best price, i was looking at chaparral, but am open to other ideas, my local shop seems to sell the same tires(dunlop 207) for about 30% more(and it does not include balancing or mounting) i an open to ideas and keeping the money at bad web/sacborg if anybody sells new tires thanks Roger | ||
| Dave |
Ron Ayers seems to have the best prices and top notch customer service. http://www.ronayers.com/main.cfm DAve | ||
| Blake |
I usually show my dealer the tire ads in the back of Cycle World and ask if he can do better on tire prices than his list price. He always does. Unfortunately he does not sell racing tires. when on the road, I use mail order. American Sport Bike or any of the dealerships sponsoring the board should give you a fair price. Or if you want big business volume discounts, find the cheapest price, like from Chaparral and give Dennis Kirk a call. They beat the price by a dollar (including their competitor's shipping/handling charge). | ||
| Xb9 |
Try SW Moto Tires: http://www.swmototires.com/ | ||
| Jsunstar |
do yinz guys think buell stock wheels will fit a 94 sportster? if so, any mods neccessary? thanks!jh | ||
| Tavs |
What is the best way to bed the brakes on my M2? I have done cars before, but never brakes on a bike. What is the procedure? Do I need to turn the rotor? | ||
| Blake |
Tav, Ride and use the brakes conservatively for a time, then have at it. The rotor would need turned if it is glazed or damaged or has an incongruous surface. Not sure if turning a Buell front rotor is a viable salvage operation. Not much extra thickness available on the disk. Probably best if needed to simply replace a badly worn disk. | ||
| Jasons1 |
For tires, try EBay. I've gotten a few pairs from there and have been very happy. Some tires have been brand new, and some have been take-offs. Some guys buy brand new sportbikes and then replace the tires right away. I see tires on there with less than 500 miles on them all the time going for around $100/pair. I just got a set of D208GP's (180 rear/120 front) that look absolutely brand new for $125. The guy said he wadded up his bike after 3 laps at a track day, and was now parting out the bike. It's worth a look. Just search for "D207" for D208" or whatever. Searching for Dunlop will bring up too many auctions. | ||
| Tavs |
Blake: Thanks for the info; I always turn the rotors on my car; the bike's rotor is in great shape. Guess I'll just pop em in and go. Thanks again. | ||
| Rick_A |
One finger braking again...so nice... My brakes got so bad it was getting scary. When it came time to change pads/rotor I found it was necessary to evacuate my lines of all fluid to get the pistons spread enough to put the EBC pads in. The things needed to be nearly flush! New stock pads seemed to be a bit thinner. What a hassle...anyway, the old pump and bleed had zero effect so I had to buy a vacuum pump. Made it so easy (after an hour of trying to pump the damn thing the other way). A guy at work noticed I had an 1/8" chicken strip on the edges of my tires. I've been trying to find out if it's possible to get that edge off. So, today I cranked 'er over enough to ground a peg, and hard enough to yank my boot right off the peg...beveling my boot some. I still didn't hit the edge of my rear! Oh well. This guy flipped out 'cause I pointed out the 1" chicken strips (completely unscuffed area on like 5000 mi tires!) on the edges of his front tire to a crowd he was entertaining...he had a ton of bull excuses explaining that one...all in fun... He also claimed to not do burnouts despite someone pointing out a large amount of fresh tire shreds under his fender. Some people... | ||
| Nemo |
Slow leak: My 99 m2 rear tire/wheel has had a slow leak. It will leak about 2-3 pounds in a week. The wheel has leaked with all the 5-6 tires that have been on it. I have replaced the valve core. This last time the tire was off the wheel. Took the valve stem off. Polished the area the the stem seats to. Now the the tire is back on it now leaks worse. 3 pounds in 1 day. I soaped the wheel and do not show any bubbles. Has anyone else had the same problem. Any suggestions? Thanks | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Nemo, we used to get frustrated finding leaks in our bicycle tires as kids. So we'd get a large tub of water (like an old wash tub/pan) and roll the inflated inner tube through there slowly. If it's leaking actively bubbles will show up somewhere. Seems like it might help in your case. Water needs to be deep enough to cover the rim and valve. Did you check the rubber O ring on the valve stem? Where the stem seats to the inside of the rim? Interestingly, the rear wheel on my S2 has a nasty, pothole induced dent. Darn thing rides like new and refuses to drop so much as a pound of pressure. Go figure. But my new wheel should be in soon. Good luck. | ||
| Rick_A |
How does the bead seating surface on the rim look? Excessive corrosion there could cause a leak. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
PS. An inflatable kiddie pool would be inexpensive and would probably suffice. | ||
| Nemo |
I will put the thing in the tub this weekend. The o-ring seems fine. No knicks or pits. It fit real "low" in the groove on the valve stem. | ||
| Ryan23 |
Does anyone know if any Rc components spun wheel fit Buells? | ||
| Lornce |
Couple of things.... Changing the brake pads on the '98 S3 the other day.... EBC units sourced from local Suzuki shop.... Rears were no problem.... Front caliper a different story.... The threaded plug covering the 'pad pin' refused to respond to a firmly seated and appropriately sized screw driver.... Hmmn? I'll spare your tender eyes the solution to that one, but the up shot of it is that 'someone' loctited the plug in place.... Now I look at the allen head of the 'pad pin' and discover it's previously been rounded out by a thoughtful ham-fist.... And it too appears to be loctited in place as evidenced by the splooge on the threads.... I'm going to have to drill this through the head (which will sever it from the pin on the far side) and remove the threaded 'head' portion with an eazy-out.... My question is: Are these items loctited in place from the factory to prevent vibration loosening? Or have I just found a gift from the dealership who serviced the bike for the previous owner? I know the PO didn't do it, he didn't even change his own oil or tire pressure. Oh yea, while I've got your attention: Are the Marchesini wheels on a '96 S1 and the PM wheels on a '98 S3 completely interchangeable? Thanks for any info provided. Only two more months 'til sporadic Buelling can begin again. I hate winter, Lornce | ||
| Bads1 |
They are interchangeable Lorance but the you will need the spacers from the Marchasini wheels because your PM wheels spacers are different.But you should be able to use the spacers from any year cast alloy wheel seeing that they are basically alike. | ||
| Roadrunr |
RICK_A, Where did you get the vacuum pump to bleed out your brake system. Steve | ||
| Tavs |
Has anybody seen how beautiful the rear pulley looks on firebolts? Are the belt widths the same for the bolts as well as tube bikes? I'm thinking that would look great on bike (looks lighter too). | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Re brakes, I just bled the front when I did the R&R of the wheel for a new tire. A local Indy HD guy recommended I just gently squeeze the lever (reservoir cover off), watch the bubbles come up, then gently release, wait 15 seconds, repeat. Took about 20 minutes or so. I just pulled up a stool and re-read some of the FSM while I was 'bleeding'. Worked great. Brake worked well before, works better now with fresh & clean DOT 5. | ||
| Rick_A |
Roadrunr...I got a little creative...it would've taken a week to order one...so in a pinch I bought a vacuum tester and rigged it up through an air tight reservoir to work as a bleeder. Works real well. Some people amaze me...went to a shop and this guy came in looking for a new tire...he had literally burned the entire tread clean off all the way around the rear tire. "I'm looking for a new tire." YA THINK??? Burnouts are fun every once in a while...but damn. Blake...I see what you mean about the EBC's...they don't work as well and the pad and rotor wear seem to be worse to boot. Maybe I'll try Lyndall road compound pads next time and a cast iron rotor...which will probably not be sooner than later! ...or better yet dual 340mm's! | ||
| Rick_A |
Well, I found the only thing I like better about kevlar compound pads...the brake dust doesn't adhere to the rim much...wipes clean off the rim without a cleaner and doesn't attack the finish. | ||
| Bomber |
Brake System Question -- Y2K M2 (looks much like all the other models as well) rear brake caliper, there are a couple of little rubber shield that install on both of the mounting bolts . . . . to keep road grime and the like out of the bores that allow the caliper to slide, I imagine . . . . neither of them (can't tell if they're the same or not) are listed in the parts book at the dealer . . . . anyone have any idea what the P/N is/are/usta be? thanks | ||
| Aesquire |
44149-98Y REPAIR KIT, rear caliper (caliper piston, piston seal & dust seal) Thats from my 2000-2001 M2 parts manual.. best I can do. Item 10 on page 45. | ||
| Bomber |
Thanks, Aesquire . . ..I appreacite the back up. . . . | ||
| Turtle |
Spooned a new Bridgestone BT020 on the bike this week (based on recommendations). I've only ridden a few miles on it, but so far, I like it. | ||
| Admin |
XB9 Owners, Please note the service bulletin concerning free upgrade to all wheel bearings. This concerns all 2003 XB9R and XB9S models produced before November 7th, 2002. There is a permanent link to the bulletin in the subtopic list at the top of this page. You can find a list of other important service bulletins by clicking the link herein. Click HERE to start a new thread about wheels, tires, or brakes. edited by blake on March 27, 2004 |
