| Author |
Message |
    
Vecchio_lupo
| | Posted on Sunday, July 12, 2009 - 09:07 pm: | 
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I am a new Buell Owner, Love my new to me 99 S3T, original owner took loving care and it is great. I have put 1,500 trouble free miles on it here in the Hot Humid Gulf South of New Orleans, Louisiana. Today (Sunday the 12th) I went on a 250 mile run to Grand Isle and back in 90-95 degree heat and sun. Everything was working as it should.
at about mile 200, in between checking the dash and signaling a lane change, my dash went dead. Bike ran as before; perfect, but the speedometer was dead, the odometer was blank (no power), the turn signals, horn, tail light, and brake lights all did not respond. I rode the last 50 miles home without incident, but I am stymied. How are all these systems intertwined? It feels electrical in nature, but why this odd combo of systems, are they carried on a common bus or breaker? Thanks for the experience, and all theories will be taken seriously.
I posted this under electrical also. Sorry for the redundency.
Thanks,
(Message edited by vecchio_lupo on July 12, 2009) |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 12:45 am: |
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If your system is anything like the electrical system on my '01 X-1 you have just blown your accessory fuse. Mine just started to do the same thing. New 15 amp fuse, everything works fine during start-up and pre-trip checks. 5-10 mins into the ride, horn, turn signals, speedo, ect. go dead. Quick check shows the charging system is working fine, and the tach and engine (performance) are also good. Pull the fuse, and it's blown again. On my bike, having eliminated the key switch as a problem, am now concentrating on all appliances powered by the orange wire w/the white tracer. The hunt continues..... |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 10:56 pm: |
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Update:
Good News: I fixed the problem! Yea!!!!!
Bad News: I have no freaking idea what the problem was or what fixed it.
Process: Since the problem only happens after 5-10 mins of steady state cruise, I left the turn signals, ect. connected. Took out the tail light bulb, removed the 'position lamp' in the headlight, and took off the back of the speedo and did a close inspection. No problems found. Cut a few tie wraps, and inspected as much of the wiring harness as possible without a major tear down. No problems. Took every connector I could find w/the ong/wh wire in it, and unplugged/plugged it in about 4 times each. Went for a ride, all OK. Reinstalled the tailight, ride again, all OK. Same with the 'position lamp' in the headlight.
Conclusion: My wild a---d guess is that the connectors, which have not been apart since the bike was made, and it has lived its life either in the warm moist air of Fla or the cold moist air of southeast AK, built up enough internal corrosion to cause the amperage to rise enough to start blowing the fuse. |
Vecchio_lupo
| | Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 11:22 pm: |
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Thats sounds great, I had a blown acc fuse like you suggested, I noticed where the manuel stated it should be 15amp, but the culprit was a 20amp, I wonder if the original owner upped it to solve a symptom instead of a problem. I will try the clean and reconnect of the wire and hope that is all.
I would hate to have to jump to a 25amp fuse just to start a fire and collect insurance, uh oh, I only have liability. Guess I should investigate more.
Thanks for the advice, I was very relieved when the speedo came to life.
Joe |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 12:00 pm: |
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Try putting a 15 amp fuse back in, and then turn the ign on. Let it sit for 5 mins or so, and see if the fuse blows. If not, start the engine, and again let it sit for 5 mins or so while idling. Again, if the fuse doesn't blow, you can try using the turn signals, front and rear brake switches, ect, one at a time, and see if using one of the 'appliances' causes a failure. If so, that is the portion of the wiring to look at. If not, you may be in for something of a search. I wouldn't hesitate to try the unplug/plug thing w/the various connectors. And it may be worthwhile to pull the fuse/relay block away from the seat rail and look at the back of it. Clean connections and a little dielectric grease go a long way toward electrical system health.
On the plus side, I hope this means I won't have to do this again for 8-9 years, LOL. Good luck, and please let us know what you find. Dave |
Vecchio_lupo
| | Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 09:09 am: |
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Akbuell,
Thanks for the help, that appears to have been my problem, a combination of 10 years corrosion and extreme heat on a 10 year old fuse.
After a cleaning and reconnecting, she performed flawlessly on a 40 mile shake down with multiple start ups and system usage. I will declare this issue solved.
Thanks again,
Joe |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 12:26 pm: |
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Too Cool!!!! Really glad that the problem is fixed, and definitely makes me feel more confident of the things I did to my bike. I can now consider mine fixed, also. LOL
Good news and important info for other Tuber Guys! |
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