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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through July 29, 2009 » Oil pressure check procedure « Previous Next »

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Adoogie3
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anyone know how to check the oil pressure on a r .I am curious to why its knocking and would like for someone to give quick notes on how to perform the check and where the sensor is so i can hook a gauge up.
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 05:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dude, have you contacted western reserve yet??? I'm sure they could get this sorted out for you if you give them a chance, and don't bring your baggage from lake Erie with you.

Can't help ya with the oil pressure question.
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D_adams
Posted on Monday, July 13, 2009 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll see if I can find the info tonight when I get home in a few hours.
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D_adams
Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 02:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Part number for tester is HD-96925-52B (this is a banjo bolt connection tester)

Pressure at idle is between 10-43 psi
Pressure at 4000 rpm should be 36-87 psi

Oil pressure switch is next to filter housing, disconnect it, install the gauge set (do not over-tighten) and then start engine. Readings are as above, oil must be hot from at least a 20 mile ride.
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Adoogie3
Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the great info D_adams
this should help me diagnose whats going on wit my bike.Who knows all the knocking could just be valves adjustment?If so I will buy a book and get dirty.
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Xl1200r
Posted on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Valves out of spec won't put metal in your oil like you've got.

I have to go with Bads on this one - get your bike to another dealer, present the facts with no drama and let them dig in.

If I had to guess, I'd say you either got a spun bearing or some bad piston slap or something. Just my guess...

(Message edited by xl1200r on July 14, 2009)
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Adoogie3
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 07:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I lost my warranty due to the fact I posted I did 2 test and tunes at local strip to see what the Remus powerizor would do before and after . So if I have to take it to a dealer I have to pay. Like I said they monitor this site. And I do believe it does have piston slap.the dealer took apart all kinds of stuff that didn't need disassembled. I got boned!!
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D_adams
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just curious, who said the warranty was void, Buell customer service or the dealer that is trying to stick it in without lube?
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Adoogie3
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Both
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Adoogie3
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If anyone has done this please post your pressures . I bought a sunpro guage that I hooked up . Guage at autozone 12$ the threads were close but not exact . I believe ones British and one npt.So don't crank the npt fitting to tight .my findings were actually good 24 25lbs after drive .4k it was 75 and over. I believe I have trans issues or clutch basket issue with valvetrain noise. I sware it sounds like spark knock from the back cylinder. The work order stated he replaced one plug. Does anyone know the gap on the plug . Maybe he didn't gap it right?
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D_adams
Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2009 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Then at this point I'd say if you have any mechanical skills at all, buy the service manual and start tearing it down yourself. I don't know what the shop rate is ($90-95/hr here) where you are at, but if it's not running right, I'd tear it down myself to find out whats wrong because it would be cheaper to do it myself due to the warranty being void. Even a total rebuild would be cheaper than what the dealer would charge me, or possibly look on flea-bay for a spare motor. Wish I could see/hear it, might be able to tell what it is from listening.
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Hills4u
Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doogiedude
what did you do to lose your warranty. that is some bad wooju
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Sparropie
Posted on Thursday, July 16, 2009 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

doogi, gap is printed in the handbook at the top of the 1125 page...
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Ron_luning
Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 11:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Adoogie3,
You say that you lost your warranty, but you do mean on just the engine right? I don't see how meddling with fueling would justify denying a claim on a wheel bearing or turn signal.
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Adoogie3
Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone disconnected the plug on the oil sensor to even see the if the dash oil light will even come on? Mine won't register on my cluster when the bike is running and I unplug it? Is this normal?
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D_adams
Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 12:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tested mine, does NOT come on in the first 15 seconds, did not try longer. Not sure what the delay time is for setting the light. I'll have to look in the manual for that one.
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D_adams
Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check to see if the bulb is burnt by disconnecting the wire from the sensor, start the bike and then ground the wire to the engine case. The light should come on. Still no idea on what the time delay is for the switch itself, but it should be pretty quick. Maybe my switch is going out too? This could be bad. If I'm not mistaken, by default it should be grounded until there is pressure to open the switch.
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Mquack996
Posted on Friday, July 24, 2009 - 04:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A noise that I heard before from these engines is a loose alternator rotor bolt. The noise is similar to a rod knock.

If this bolt has ever been removed before there is a good chance its loose. If they used the wrong type of loctite or didn't clean all the loctite off it would loosen. It not all that hard to check, but you will need a new gasket.
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