| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
Jim Sb; the best bets without going for a full caliper/perch/master cylinder swap, are the Lyndall Racing Brakes or the Ferrodo pads. Tat at American Sportbike sells both, although the Ferodo's apparently are hard to get. If the rotor is indeed warped (have you measured run-out?), does anyone think it'd be possible to have the rotor shaved a bit to bring it back to spec?? Henrik | ||
| Mikej |
What's the latest feedback on Pirellis? Sort of thinking of the recommended Dunlop, and after reading some magazine over the weekend I'm also looking at the Pirelli Dragons and their other models. Mileage, grip, wet weather are main concerns but not necessarily in that order. Dragon SuperCorsa, Dragon Evo Corsa MTR21/MTR22, Dragon MTR01/MTR02, Dragon MTR23GTS/MTR24GTS, Sport Demon? | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Henrik, I'm pulling the front wheel soon for a new tire. I'm going to have a close look at the rotor and pads then. While I suppose I could have the rotor 'turned', it was my understanding the newer Buell rotors were lighter and better. Your recommendation? I'd prefer to keep my existing PM 6 pot caliper, etc., and just get an improved rotor if there's one that will play nicely. Last I heard from you was you couldn't find any pads that would make your new SS rotor stop. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
MikeJ, I've been running the Metzeler M-1 Sportecs. Excellent tires. But only got 3300 miles or so on the rear, about 5400 on the front. They have been unflappable. But I don't like changing tires that often ($$$) so I'm going with Bridgestone BT-010's this time around. Caf'e Bill reports they last about twice as long but still give good grip. | ||
| Henrik |
Mike: the Pirellis are close cousins to Metzler (almost identical - except for tread pattern), and I really like their tires. I run the MeZ4 tires on the S2. I had them on the S3 as well, and never ran out of traction. Pretty decent wear as well; about 4000 miles to a rear tire. Very nice, neutral handling. Henrik | ||
| Mikej |
Thanks, I'll check into the Metzlers as well. | ||
| Roc |
Jim SB - I'm now having the exact same problem at you had with my rear Marchasini wheel. I've just found out about the bearing problem, after having the wheels powder coated, so now I will be looking to have is shimmed as you did. Thanks for posting your experience. My attempt to save some money in the repair of my front wheel has not worked out very well. IMHO - the Marchasini, I don't care if that is spelled correctly or not, wheels are of very poor quality all the way around. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Roc, sorry to hear that. As others have posted, Modesto Buell may be able to do a goodwill deal for you on that wheel - I wasn't the bike's original owner so I didn't try that route. I was going to have my wheel powder coated when the sleeve work was done, but the machinist glued (bearing cement?) the new bearings in place. I didn't think they would withstand the powder coating process, and I didn't want to risk damaging things attempting to pull the new bearings. Anyway, hopefully your machinist will not mar the new finish on your wheel! PS. My belt was NOT too tight; I am convinced it was a manufacturer's defect. I have loosened the rear axle ever so slightly (1/8" max.) from where it was and now the belt is so loose you can move it around on the sprocket with your fingers (with the bike unloaded on it's kickstand). Bike seems to run just fine with the belt that loose, though. | ||
| Roc |
Jim SB - It started out as a front wheel I bent on a serious pot hole, now I'm out $635 and I still don't have a servicable set of wheels. They dealership quoted me like $540 for a new front Marchiwhatever, so in an attempt at being frugle I waited and bought one for $80 on ebay - a cast alloy. In a further attempt to be frugle I stripped both wheels and went about polishing them. For the record I think a guy with a bit of experience could do this to a cast alloy, but not a Marchi - they are very porious and the machine work is also poor. So I took them to a polisher - $300 for the pair and I needed to change the bearings too, yikes. Powdercoat was $230, plus a bearing change, so I did that. Well $230 turned into $250 because he had to take out the bearings, which is ok. So now they look good but they need bearings and tires. To the dealership for this, I can do the bearings but not the tires and I'm affraid to scratch them. After hours in a car to track down a 62205-2RS, which was originally a mislabled bearing in the wrong box - causing much anger and more driving, and going to the auto store twice, one of the 6205's they sold me was totally ceased and looked used, I had everything I needed at the HD shop. Today I'm all happy, wheels done and soon I can ride. I checked them out and one of the 6205's was so loose in the hub that I could have pulled it out with my finger. The mechanic thought it was ok, "because it will be tight under tension", but the service manager said it worried him - ME TOO BUDDY! The hub on the rear/problem wheel is ridged on the inside, visibly. It seems as though it were very poorly machined to begin with, but as a second owner I don't know my recorse here. I talked to the powdercoat guy and he still has my bearings, he said one looks like it has had some type of glue on it. I will talk to the original owner and see it this is still the factory bearing. BLAH! | ||
| Rick_A |
The rotor service limits don't leave much room for correction by turning. They'd probably be wasted. Jim Sb...the new rotors are better and about 1/2 lb heavier. I used Ferodo pads and got one-finger breaking with the S1...two fingers if you want to lift the rear wheel. The SS rotor doesn't seem to wear near as well as the 'ol cast iron, though. Next time around I'm trying those Lyndall pads...heard nothing but good things about 'em. | ||
| Turtle |
Anyone here tried a Maxxis SuperMaxx tire? There are a couple of off-road riders that I know that really like Maxxis dirt tires, but I haven't talked to anyone who's tried them on the street. I know they're made by Chen-Shin, so I'm kinda leary. While I'm here, what are your recommendations for tires? I'm sure there are lots of info. in the archive, just haven't looked very far yet. I'd like a tire with decent grip that'll last for more than 3500 miles on normal street use. | ||
| Blake |
Avon Bridgstone Dunlop Metzeler Michelin Pirelli Any of the above are well known and of reputable quality. Maxxis cost less. | ||
| Kinger |
Blake, Is that in order of preference? Among other things, I am looking into new tires before spring. I always had good luck with Dunlops (I beleive D205's on my Hondas). Has anyone gotten 7,000 plus out of a set of tires? I am looking for a sport touring type tire. Off to the KV! | ||
| Blake |
Kinger, No, just alphabetical. I've never made much more than 5K miles on a rear tire. Got 8K on the fronts. Used to run D205's on my stock Buells. | ||
| Lornce |
Buddy of mine has nearly 10k miles on a set of Bridgestone 020 Battlax's on his R1100RS BMW, and he rides pretty hard. Think I'll be trying those on the S3T next time I need tires. The 205 Dunlops are okay for a touring tire. Squirm and slide a lot and the front can be made to push fairly easily if you up the ante. Don't seem to last too long in spite of all that. Lornce | ||
| Buelliedan |
I love the Bridgstone 020s. Awesome tire. Wears very well(got 8,000 miles on rear) and has very good grip for a sport tour tire. | ||
| Hootowl |
I got almost 10K out of the stock D204 that came on my X1. I got 4K out of the D207 replacement, and I'm only managing 5K out of the D205/D220. Weird. I do a lot of superslab riding. | ||
| Court |
>>>I got almost 10K out of the stock D204 Wow! Now I feel like crap for selling mine for a measly $25.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have the new Dunlop D208 on the back of my Cyclone. It does seem to be wearing better then the D207's, but it takes longer to warm up. Once warmed up, it feels pretty good, maybe even a little better then the 207. It's really scary until it warms up though, it slides all over the place. My understanding (could very well be wrong) is that I am reserving judgement until I see how the D208 wears. If I can get a good 7k out of a rear, it will be worth the slow warm up (being the cheapskate I am). If it's only a 5k tire, then I won't buy another. Sounds like that Bridgestone 020 is worth a try. Anybody think there would be an issue with mixing 020's and D207's at the same time? That has been the main thing keeping me from switching models, I don't want to pitch half of a perfectly good tire (nor pay for two tires at one time). I have also thought about putting the Bridgestone 010 on the front, and the 020 on the back. My front does not wear much, and traction on the front is so much more important to me. Or do they do this already? Is a B-020 front already stickier then a B-020 rear? | ||
| Buelliedan |
The 205 is a harder sport touring tire than the 207. Dual compound. In other words less sticky. I would not recommend combining the 020 with a 207. they are very different compounds. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I'm running the 208's on my M2. I agree with the Reap man. They are wearing better than my old 205's. I should get more than 7500 on the rear before I have to replace it. So far I've got about 6000 on the set. Quite a bit of meat left on the rear. I tend to replace them early but should still get 7-7500. The front will easily last 2 rears. They are a bit spooky when cold but my 205s were the same only slightly better. Makes late fall riding interesting for the first 5 miles or so. Brad | ||
| Henrik |
S2 fork and clip-on bars: I found what looks like a really good set of raised clip-on bars. Check out Cycle Cat. Beautifully machined and with neat adjustment features. I figured the "F" version with 2.5" rise and spun 180° to put the mount to the rear should work very well on an S2. Of course, since the (as always) Buell measurements are non-standard, they don't have a clamp that'll fit.  The biggest they have is 53 mm that they can machine up to 53.5 mm. So close and yet so far ... And all this is brake related because I'm swapping to a different front caliper, requiring a 7/8" clamp master cylinder (1/2" actual master cylinder size) .... Henrik | ||
| Turtle |
Thanks for the tire info. I hadn't considered problems with not having a matched set. Looks like I'm going to buy two tires instead of one. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Turtle, Chaparral sells the BT 020s for about $200 a set. best price I have found | ||
| H_Man |
www.discountmotorcycletire.com is another GREAT source for buns for your bike. Presuming your getting the standard 120/70 front and 170/60 rear, it'll cost ya $207 (including tax, title, license, destination fees & shipping... well... I guess it's just the shipping that's applicable ) Be safe & have fun. H-man "The road to enlightenment is not a straightaway" | ||
| H_Man |
Just testing out my newfound BBS skills Discount Motorcycle Tire is another GREAT source for buns for your bike. Presuming your getting the standard 120/70 front and 170/60 rear, it'll cost ya $207 (including tax, title, license, destination fees & shipping... well... I guess it's just the shipping that's applicable ) Be safe & have fun. H-man "The road to enlightenment is not a straightaway" | ||
| Lornce |
A Quick Question: Will brake pads suited to the front PM caliper of a '96 fit the Nissin caliper of a '98? A Quick Observation: Removing the front wheel of my '96 S1 requires the removal of the rotor from the carrier to free the caliper. That's about the most inconvenient maintenance hassle I've seen since the oil filter on a two valve RS or RT BMW. A Quick Tip: Using a 60 series front tire will result in a sharper handling bike. 120/60-17 instead of 120/70-17. cheers, Lornce | ||
| Henrik |
Lornce; no, they will not fit. Henrik | ||
| Roc |
My '97 S1 does not require the removal of the brake rotor to free the caliper/wheel, but in the past it has seemed like it. | ||
| Henrik |
There was a very small batch of S1s that did/do indeed require removing the brake rotor to get the caliper off. Henrik |
