| Author |
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Blake
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 01, 2009 - 10:26 pm: | 
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Anony is solid as is her/ his advise. |
Court
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 01, 2009 - 11:31 pm: |
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>>>I hope you're not scaring off a good resource there.
Blake would never scare off an bona fide anonymous poster.
Blake's credentials are sterling as is his word. |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 01, 2009 - 11:54 pm: |
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If the softening agents actually aided in cooling the engine, the temperature of the coolant as it exited the engine would have to be higher because it would have absorbed more heat.
That's almost true. However, one thing that the softening agent does (water wetter being one of them) is lower the viscosity of the fluid (water in this case) increasing the overall flow of the system allowing more heat to be transferred without showing up as an increase in temperature. |
Clbofaz
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 12:13 am: |
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Well I suppose that shoots holes in the water wetter debate...
Too bad all this info isn't compiled into an easy read for new Buell riders. |
Pariah
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 12:49 am: |
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I think the moral of this thread is:
1) Water Wetter + Distilled/De-ionized water: GOOD!
(as long as there's no chance of freezing--- quite remote in Texas summer heat)
2) Propylene Glycol (Engine Ice): BAD!
3) Ethylene Glycol (HD stuff recommended in manual): also good, but won't be as good at lowering temps as 1).
I think I'm going to do 1) for the next couple of months...
(Message edited by pariah on July 02, 2009) |
Duggram
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 07:54 am: |
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Thanks Anon, Blake and all. Turns out to be a very good thread! |
Unibear12r
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 07:04 pm: |
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Yes it did. Thanks all. |
Marcodesade
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 08:12 pm: |
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Is there a particular procedure for adding WW? Do I need to flush the whole system, or can I just add a little? |
Duggram
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 08:59 pm: |
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Next time I replace mine I'm going to blow out the system with air before I follow the procedure in the manual for adding it. Mixing is pretty easy. I got a gal of distilled water and followed directions. I had plenty of left overs. |
Jdugger
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 10:40 pm: |
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Just as a follow-up:
I have two 1125r. One street, one track.
Even in the Dallas and Texas heat, in 35,000+ miles of 1125r ridership, I have NEVER had a need for anything other than the coolant shipped with the bike. NEVER.
ON THE TRACK, AND ON THE TRACK ONLY, I am consistently seeing the "high temp" light on the dash while beating the piss out of my 1125r. This is ONLY happening on days above 100F, and it's happening because I am spending literally 30 minutes straight modulating between half and WOT and absolutely pounding the bike's motor in 2nd and 3rd gear.
So, Water Wetter makes sense for me on the track bike because if it does lower the temps a bit, that's a huge win, and because it's better to be running water instead of glycol in a track bike anyway.
But make no mistake about it: I ain't touching the street bike, and see absolutely no reason to. I'll never run it hard enough to demand the extra cooling effectiveness of water, and I do ride in the fall/early winter in Arkansas a lot, and it DOES freeze over night!
Short and long: If you are riding on the street, please ignore this entire thread. It doesn't make any sense for you. |
Duggram
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 10:52 pm: |
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J, for some reason I thought you had one street bike that saw track days. If it is a track only bike then maybe you should look into the ram air fairings from Flexiglass. Ronnie Saner, crew chief for Latus made it very clear that the only way they could cure their overheating was to ditch the fans and go with ram air. He said they lowed their temps by 10 degrees. This fall when I get new side panels to replace my current (beat to hell) set I plan to go with ram cooling. Not only does it work better, makes the bike 15 pounds lighter. |
Jdugger
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 10:55 pm: |
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15 lbs?!?!?!
Got a link? |
Clbofaz
| | Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 01:53 am: |
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>> Got a link?
+1, I second that. Sounds like something anyone here may be interested in. Especially as below.
>> Short and long: If you are riding on the street, please ignore this entire thread. It doesn't make any sense for you.
Even if you ride in AZ where the AT gets to be between 110 and 120 degrees for days on end? I ride in the street and my bikes temp is consistently above 200 and usually approaching 220 until I can nail a straight. Goes right back up when I stop. Even see the temp light now and again if I wait to long (damn lights) or after turning the bike off and its carryover keeps getting it hotter. |
Duggram
| | Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 10:00 am: |
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J, here's a comment from flexi-glass.com "the rad ram air is 15- 20 pounds lighter than stock and makes the bike run around 20 degress cooler".
And here's a thread where these side panels are discussed.
 |
Pariah
| | Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 10:20 am: |
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I still think, especially in warm climates, you can benefit from Water Wetter for street riding, and even drop down to say, 25% anti-freeze (0% if it's hot enough), 75% Water + Water Wetter. After all, Water Wetter is not just for the track. I've done this in my daily driver car for years with no ill effects (although, for the car I wouldn't go 0% glycol because air conditioning can cool certain engine parts down near freezing--- not an issue on a motorcycle ridden in the heat).
Anything that lowers temps is better for the engine and will improve performance and comfort. Just use common sense.
(Message edited by pariah on July 03, 2009) |
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