| Author | Message | ||
     Luvdathump |
I bought a 2001 blast with 2700 miles on it. The first 700 were good. The bike ran great. Lately it seems to have an intake problem, changed the boot it runs a little better. Any suggestions I'm kinda thinking it's the coil or ignition module. Any help would be appreciated. | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
2001? I'm betting ignition module, the coil from what I understand rarely fails where the ignition module Is a known problem on 2001's. Bad ignitions mimic intake problems btw. Let me know If you have ?s because I replaced my ignition module on my 2001. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 Pull the points/timing cover. If it has a problem, you can see the LED flash. It should be regular. If the bike dies and no flash, then its 99% probably the ignition module. If its hard starting the flash will be erratic, like flashing every 3rd compression stroke. There are other things that can go wrong, but if you're pulling your hair out, its probably the module!!! | ||
| Luvdathump |
I pulled the cover the light was dim but seemed to blink with the idle. The idle was a little rough. I usually seems to the first min or two. Should I take it on a test run and wait for it to act up, and look in the cover again. and yes I believe i'm bald now | ||
| Ezblast |
You've ruled out, loose plug wire or plug, partially fouled plug, boot, exhaust leak, vacuum line plug leak, slide rubber seal tear/leak, idle screw badly set, air idle screw badly set, primary too tight, tank vent line and vent ok,safeties - kickstand and clutch, good battery and both negative grounds good, regulator not bleeding. That leaves ignition - lol EZ | ||
| Luvdathump |
New spark plug, boot, exhaust, the tank vent I can blow through, and I don't think the carb's ever been messed with the plug is not drilled out and screws don't seem tampered with. Safeties work fine. No signs of corrosion around the ground leads, and the battery is strong I can leave the key on for ten minutes or so and still crank it over hard. How would I test and where would I find the vacuum line plug, slide rubber seal and a bleeding regulator. | ||
| Krjoseph |
I vote for ignition. My 01 did the same thing for a few days, checked everything. It was the ignition shutting down everytime it got hot. Replaced it 10,000 miles ago and no problems since with it. I was a noob then, so I let the dealer fix it. Surprisingly, I was able to ride it 35 miles to Bumpus. But, it was Feb. 10 and only 41 degrees when I left the house. I froze but the ignition didn't overheat! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If the battery is that good I doubt the regulator is bleeding. The vacuum plug is on top of the carb. It (as far as I've seen) only has one. Since you dont have a CA Blast, it may be permanently plugged with a 'solid' nipple or none at all. If it dies, then doesnt start, the LED will tell you how the ignition is working. No flash and thats probably it. The Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) can do the same thing, but its not as common and conceivably if you turn the ignition completely off and then back on it should reset the BAS (A normally functioning BAS will only reset after power is killed to the unit). As with any of the safety switches if its bad it can cut out at any time. To bypass the kickstand switch, the 2 wires just have to be joined together (circuit completed). Flip the clutch diode to bypass other switches also (easy and reversable) http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html EZ gave you a long list. So more plausible than others, but all possible. Some things on the list should be done such as drilling out the idle screw and going to 45 (slow)/170 (main) jetting (the main may or may not be a 170 now) as well as a primary adjustment (which has probably never been done-but that would mean its loose and not too tight). Some things are that if you havent messed with it its very unlikely to have a problem. Reading your profile and post, I think you're familiar with diagnostic procedures! (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on July 11, 2009) | ||
| Luvdathump |
Diagnosics is the hard part. I just need some input before I dump a bunch more cash into it. Everything I repaired was needed, but I keep ending up at the same location. The bike acts like it has an intake leak but only when it warms up I've been hunting for any little thing I missed, and come up dry. Thank You for all your help. | ||
| Ezblast |
Your simple descriptor of the bike's problem in your profile tells me it is probably your ignition. EZ | ||
| Garlic_sauce |
I did the same thing, checking and fixing small problems on my bike, venturi ring, boot, airbox intake gasket, plug. Nothing helped. After there wasn't anything to fix anymore I finally bought the new module. I installed it myself with info from this board. It is a very easy straight forward install. I would also suggest getting the module from a dealership(as much as I hate saying that) or a site you trust. There are two different modules, the one you want is PN 32687-00YA. The other one is old and is the one that has problems. | ||
| Luvdathump |
Unfortunatly the module in the timing cover has the same part number as above, the module looks recently replaced. No bubbling or cracking in the plastic coating and doesn't smell burnt. I'm at a loss. | ||
| Ezblast |
Check the wiring - especially if it looks recently replaced. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
May be a bad connection to the connector/loose wire? EZ | ||
| Luvdathump |
I decided to start all over. It's hard to swallow $180 for a module. Anyway I found that my bike ran better with no fuel cap on. So my question now is what is the canister on the back of the bike underneath the tail on the left side. Is it needed and could that cause any of the problems i've been having. | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - yes. See the procedure section in the engine kv - it will tell you how to 49 state the bike. EZ | ||
| Luvdathump |
Just finished up the bike took it on a short ride seemed to run much better thank everyone for your help. I'm going on a longer ride tomorrow. To make sure the problems resolved. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, checked your profile first and it said WA. So I didnt mention it. If we'd known it was a CA bike, we would have mentioned it first! Dont Ever Reconnect It! | ||
| Luvdathump |
Well that worked for a minute or two. I just got back from a twenty mile ride. It runs a lot better but still has a decellerating pop especialy when cold. and loses power followed by a backfire. Just pops through the airbox occasionally. The problem just comes and go when it wants. It ran good first five miles crappy a mile then good for ten crappy another mile and good the rest of the way home. does the blast usually act like this. | ||
| Luvdathump |
I forgot to mention that I also developed a ticking noise that is related to speed not the revs of the motor. - Also clunks very rarely. Once going into first (which I believe is common) and a second time after the clutch is released and start to take off this happens VERY rarely. about three times all recently. | ||
| Reuel |
Check your boot again. Make sure it's tight. You should not be able to rotate the carburetor while the airbox is not attached. Be careful, though, because you can get it too tight, causing premature (?) failure. I'm starting to suspect the ignition module. The hall-effect interrupt sensor has 3 solid wires going from the circuit board that are something like 1/2" long. Vibration can cause one of these pins to break, but the design of the module does not let the pin separate. Thermal and vibrational changes can cause it to lose contact just enough that it either misses an ignition or gets a false ignition. It can happen once in a while, only at certain temperatures, certain RPM ranges, etc. If you can get a loaner module, it's better to go that way, as it's a good chunk of money to spend if that isn't the problem. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Just to be sure-you did completely disconnect the charcoal canister? No a Blast doesnt usually act like that, except when it has a bad module. Although, if you just disconnected the cannister, it can act funky for a while, but probably not 20 miles of riding. 1st gear clunk is 'normal' but can be avoided with practice. The secondary clunk usually disappears after the first time and when warmed up. Hopefully (usually) a complete proper clutch adjustment will solve this, otherwise its bent tranny parts. Ticking noise may just be something you didnt hear before and as you get used to the bike, (and you're obviously now listening/looking for problems) you're more in tune to it. Might be the belt, a loose part, etc. I cant say for sure its the module (and thats pretty rare when you get a cut and dry diagnosis of one), but it sure sounds like it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I have a 'loaner' that has issues. It will at least change them and give you new problems, but it never left me stranded! | ||
| Luvdathump |
I disconnected the canister just like it said to completly word for word. I can't reconnect it I cut it in half. Something about curiosity in things that are foreign to me. I'm going to save up and but the module. Is there a thread on how to remove and replace the module. I've looked in random areas and don't seem to see one. Whats the hall-effect sensor and where is that located. $180 bucks I'll dissect that sucker too. All I got to say Is so much for the easy stuff. I was hoping to take my baby to the coast for the 4th of july weekend, but now she has to sit in the garage and think about what she's done. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes there are 'instructions' here. Toughest part is the deutsch connector. Knowing how to do it will take you 5 minutes. Not knowing will take you an hour+ and the rest of your hair! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/59815.html If you follow the SEI instructions, thats the basic plan. You just need to swap wire for wire. (SE Ignition uses 5 wires-disregard). The new module will be wired the same as the old module and the connector has numbers on it. Just mark where the wires go. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/253601.html?1222531363 or Deutsch Connector Removal: The hardest part is pulling apart the Deutsch connector (see manual). From the wire side of the plug push the green plug out with a small screwdriver (the kind used to fix eyeglasses) or other small suitable probe (slide back the rubber seal first).Then, on the pin side of the plug, in the center of the plug, are 6 small tabs which when pushed (inward, towards the center of the plug) will release the wire/pins. It takes about 5 easy minutes to pull the plug apart, but will take an hour or more if you dont know this!!! | ||
| Luvdathump |
I found one at Ironmachine.com for $150 has anyone bought part from them before and if so were you satisfied. The description says it an oem same part # as the one on my bike. | ||
| Swampy |
I think that I bought one from Appleton for $128 a while back. Check our sponsers for the part first. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did you get my PM? For electronic parts, unless you want to keep them, I'd get them from a dealer or anyone who might willingly warrantee them (which isnt often). | ||
| Luvdathump |
I did not get your PM not sure how to get it. PM stands for personal message correct? |
