| Author | Message | ||
     Gearhead |
I finally have a few miles on the bike and I'm ready to start some mods but... I've been catching bits and pieces about this solenoid thing but I have no idea what or where it is or what the advantage is to tweaking it? Will someone please explain this?? BTW, it has had all the reflashes if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance! | ||
| P_squared |
The 'noid is there to help the bike meet EPA noise requirements, which is tested in 3rd gear. When it activates, it can cause a 'failure to accelerate' condition. To experience this first hand, in 3rd gear at ~50 mph, go WOT as fast as you can. You have 3 basic options for taking the 'noid out of the equation: 1) Remove the cable, but leave the noid plugged in. 2) Leave the cable, but unplug the noid (need the $6 resistor - Buell part # Y0248.1AM) 3) Remove the noid entirely (need the $6 resistor - Buell part # Y0248.1AM). All 3 of the above will stop the 'failure to accelerate' condition when you meet the criteria to activate the noid. Steps for option #1: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Safetywire/zip tie cable out of way of other moving parts or completely remove from noid. Steps for Option #2: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Unplug noid at connector and plug in resistor (Buell part # Y0248.1AM). Steps for Option #3: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Unplug noid at wire harness connector. 8. Insert resistor into plug in wire harness (Buell part # Y0248.1AM). 9. Remove noid. For options #1 & 3, it’s highly recommended to tie the linkage. Whichever option you choose, the reason for doing this mod is to prevent the noid from activating in 3rd gear ~4.5k rpm, which causes a temporary ‘failure to accelerate’ condition. Link to pics: Noidectomy | ||
| Jdugger |
I just did option #3 on my track bike. It makes the throttle action lighter, which is a good thing for me because the 1125r throttle springs are too STIFF! I didn't tie the linkage... didn't see why it would be necessary. Perhaps I missed something? I also took the time to clean and lubricate the linkages and moving parts while in there. Used a jeweler's screwdriver and just the tiniest amount of white lithium grease. Took out a squeak in the throttle action and made it smoother as a result. I'll test as MSR Cresson on Saturday... I've hit the noid condition there a couple of times in the past since the exit of Big Ben is a 3rd gear, WOT situation. | ||
| Whynot |
I just did option #1 the other day. I was going to wait til I got the resistor, but had the time what with all the rain hereabouts. Anyway, the only thing I would add is to go slowly when removing the air filter base plate. Before lifting it, take a look at the two breathers that slide in to the base, and the three things that clip onto the rear -- you'll see what I mean after you take the filter itself off. I used a small vac to clean everything before I took the filter off -- call it step # 3a. | ||
| Gearhead |
Whynot, I understand your pain, it's been raining here off and on for weeks! P_squared, Thanks for your thorough explainations, I'm hoping to get started as soon as I get the resistor which I'll order today. Unfortunately I couldn't link to "Noidectomy". Thanks everyone!! | ||
| Whynot |
Try a SEARCH in the 1125 forum for "noid" and you will see lots of threads, and some have detailed pics. | ||
| Jdugger |
> I used a small vac to clean everything before I took the filter off -- call it step # 3a. Because I'm an honest, law-abiding citizen, I have only done a noidectomy on my track bike. Well, when I opened up the airbox, tucked into the corners of that baseplate were a couple of tire's worth of "rubber marbles". You know, the little beads of rubber that are in the outsides of the corners on the track, or that ball up and come off your tires as you pit in after a session. It was nasty!} | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
so are there any pictures out the of the linkage tieing that needs to be done? i remoed my noid. couldnt get the resistor in the time i had before i went back to the desert | ||
| Whynot |
Yep, the air intake is positioned perfectly to act as a scoop for whatever's out front. I found pebbles and bugs in the air filter, and that's after only 1400 miles. I guess they wanted the air to blast in? On my Guzzi 1100, the intake is under the seat, facing toward the rear to feed all 90 hp. On my Monster, it's under the tank, pretty high up, but the mice found it anyway and nested. But I digress from the thread ... . Hey, it's still raining. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Do #3. It costs $6, removes quite a bit of weight, and takes hardly any more time than the other two options. | ||
| P_squared |
Sorry for the non-working pic link. Try this: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/367280.html | ||
| Jdugger |
I'm still not sure I understand what and why you guys are zip-tieing that linakge. What's the reason? | ||
| S1125r |
Most people do it so that the movement of the throttle always corresponds with the movement of the butterflies. | ||
| Jdugger |
> Most people do it so that the movement of the throttle always corresponds with the movement of the butterflies. I can't tell how it wouldn't once the niod cable is gone... What am I missing? | ||
| S1125r |
If something got wedged in there, it could block the noid plate while allowing the throttle to spin still. With the two locked together, if the throttle moves, the butterflies have to move. Long shot, I know, and I ended up not doing that step because anything I put in there would just introduce one more thing that might fail into an already crowded area. | ||
| Orman1649 |
I still can't even believe they "safety" people let the bikes leave the factory with the noids. I have had the noid activate a few times and it is SCARY. You jam on the throttle, bike picks up speed for a sec then the throttle plate SLAM shut sending all the weight to the front of the bike. I don't think I have ever been in danger of going down but you don't expect it. It's not a "failure to accelerate" condition, you don't continue to have the same speed/power as you had prior to snapping the throttle....its "take away all your air for 2 seconds" Maybe it's just me, I don't know. (Message edited by orman1649 on June 19, 2009) | ||
| Daggar |
Thank the government. | ||
| Dipstick |
Jdugger, even though the throttle plates are spring-loaded in the open position after the noid cable is removed, they should be safety wired so that they can't flutter during agressive throttle operation. A 30 second chore that gives you one less thing to worry about. | ||
| Jdugger |
Yesterday was my first day out on the bike since performing the #3 (with resistor -- complete removal of the noid components and assembly) option of the noidectomy. I did *not* tie the noid control point on the throttle body linkage to the stop as recommended above, but probably will next time I'm up in the bike. The difference in mechanical throttle action is nothing short of amazing. The action is smooth and much lighter. WOT on and off isn't wearing the blisters on my hands like it was before. Highly, highly, highly recommended for any 1125r used on a closed circuit like mine is... | ||
| Whynot |
I took a little 200 mile test ride yesterday after doing the #1 disconnect. Ran great. While I was out, I stopped at the dealer and ordered the resistor plug. So I'll have a chance to go back in, remove the solenoid, check the SS lockwire that I used to tie the linkages, and clean the air filter again. | ||
| Badlionsfan |
I just did option #3 on my track bike. It makes the throttle action lighter, which is a good thing for me because the 1125r throttle springs are too STIFF! Does your husband have an 1125r too?  | ||
| Jdugger |
> Does your husband have an 1125r too? Nah, he decided his Ninja 250 was all he needed to hang with you in the twisties  |
