| Author | Message | ||
     Blackbetty |
So I've just bought a Jan 08 build date 1125R demo bike from a Dealer here in Australia and have been for my first "canyon run". I've owned a ZX6R and a couple of big inline 4s - VF1000R, FZR1000. For a couple years I did some C grade road racing here in Brisbane on a FZR400. This is my first big twin though. Engine was great, and I started to find a good balance when I was on the power, but on this ride there is an extremely steep downhill run, some 5-10 kms long with tight radius turns and I found it very hard to get the bike to turn in. Now before the ride I had started to try and dial in the suspension, and I set up the static sag at the front and used the recommended compression and rebound settings for my weight. I think that because this is an early model I have the really stiff front springs, as i ended up with the pre-load set at 2 turns in from minimum (I weigh about 90kg with all the gear on). I went to setup the back, but found that the 3mm ball end spanner was missing from the toolkit, and I didn't want to risk dropping the bike trying to measure everything myself - so I left it as was, pre-load is set at 2 steps from min - no idea what the compression and rebound settings are. I ran out of time, and just rode it like that. What I'm hoping you guys will tell me is that I'm an idiot and I should just set up the rear suspension and everything will come good. | ||
| Smoke |
you're an idiot and you should just set up the rear suspension and everything will come good.  good luck, tim | ||
| Bobby_fletcher |
lmao!!!!!!  | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Hayden(Blackbetty), haven't seen any post from you until now and welcome aboard. Here is the best advice I have had when I first got my 1125R in Feb.'08 as told by Bigeasy, a part time racer on Mar 26th '08 "After setting the bike up for your weight from the manuel. You should decrease the front preload by one turn instead and increase rear preload by 1. Give the front compression a half turn and the rebound a 1/4 turn clockwise. Go ahead and increase the rear rebound 1/4 also. I think you will like it for the twistys. A place to start anyway". Now I'm only 165 lbs. and so the lowest weight setting worked fine and with what he stated I very shortly was riding great and never changed the settings at least for spirited street riding. For the track maybe a little stiffer and more rebound damping. Like he said a good place to start anyways. Also check the search section for suspension settings and ride safe my friend. One thing more is to always start with all adjustments all the way out and turn in or out counting very preciseley the number of turns.Bob (Message edited by Bob_thompson on June 01, 2009) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
The adjustments (per the manual) are specific turns out from maximum--manximum being the screws lightly bottom out--ie screwed all the way in. | ||
| Hellgate |
Trail brake, it will steepen the rake and help turn the bike in. | ||
| Bikejunky |
here is the updated suggested setting from Buell   | ||
| Clarkjw |
Hey man, you beat me to it. Get the rear sorted. Given this bike's extreme rake and weight bias, the rear is massively important. You're also gonna have to feel out compression damping clicks, which are a bit dependant on your riding style (+-1). That rear shock is very sensitive. I ride with a bit less preload (click 2 of 7) and a 19 compression damping. 205lbs in full leathers. If you wanna be more specific, I may be able to help you. Are you getting strong brake dive? Describe how you are (or aren't) hitting the apex and if you're doing any trail braking. You can always mess with the tube height, but I doubt you'll need too. | ||
| Bigblock |
set the static sag with you on the bike, you need a friend and tape measure, you should have 35mm front and 25mm rear. THen try the factory damping settings for your weight and go from there. The "factory" preload settings were not even in the ballpark for sag with me on the bike, especially after 9,000(at the time) miles Once I did this, my handling problems went away, and she became a tamed beast. | ||
| Blackbetty |
Thanks all... will setup the rear in line with the manual and get back to you if it's still an issue. Black Betty is what the wife named the Buell - yup, it's a black one. | ||
| Jdugger |
> Black Betty is what the wife named the Buell - yup, it's a black one. Good choice. As discussed here and proven, Black is the fastest color. | ||
| Slaughter |
I'd add the recommendation to set static sag by direct measurement. It'll get you closer to start than the manual suggestions. Damping is a subjective thing... screwdriver, wrenches and a notebook... hitting the same turns again and again making tweaks after hitting those same turns a half dozen times (track - or remote roads). WOAH Black Betty, BLAM-BA-LAM!!! (cool!) (Helluva legacy surrounding Black Betty!) | ||
| Jaimec |
Are those suspension settings UPDATES to what I have in my 2009 owner's manual? Or are they the same (I don't have my manual with me to compare at the moment)? | ||
| Spectrum |
For the pre-July 08's they are the same settings as in our manuals. | ||
| Amrra12 |
Okay maybe I can help, 1st set the bike the way Buell tells you, then get a chicken and build a fire at precisely 12AM decapitate the chicken and do a voodoo dance! This should net you about the same result……….Buells setting are cookie cutter settings and will only work for 1% of the population! Set your sag 40mm front 35mm rear street... 35mm front 30mm rear track! Then dial it reb and comp.. my rule of thumb is rebound fast compression stiff but the MOST Important thing you can do it set your sag! | ||
| Zac4mac |
I've seen enough to know I'm ignorant. When you measure sag, it's the compression of the fork... Measured along the tube? Where do you measure rear sag, the tail drop? As good as Loretta rides, the prospect of improvement makes me smile. Z | ||
| Slaughter |
Measuring sag is expensive. You'll need a couple buddies to help (and help drink the 6-pack that it'll cost you) Sag is measured from a fixed point on the bike to the axle. You can use bottom triple for fork. For shock, you might have to find a good reference point. First "ZERO" is with NO weight on the bike and it LIFTED so the fork and shock are fully extended - 2 lifting, one measuring. Then you and all your gear (and typical tank of fuel) sit on it. Wiggle a bit (to overcome stiction). Measure with one guy holding bike vertical, other doing the measurements. You just sit all comfy-like. Difference is "sag." Increase or decrease the spring preload as required to get the desired sag. Park bike safely - you and the crew can now consume a second 6-pack if desired. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Thanks Steve - I'll give it a go in a couple of days. Almost my weekend. Z | ||
| Bigblock |
Thanks Steve for posting the easy 'splaination. For me, Steve's recommended 35 mm F and 25 mm R works great. ( I think it was Steve told me that) start with manual specs for damping, making sure when you sit down on the bike in your riding position, that the front aand rear compress evenly and at the "same speed" I have found this to work really well for me. (disclaimer... I* don't race, nor do I design or build bikes or suspension for a living, I am not officially certified for much of anything, not even a straight jacket. THank God for small favors, and big ones too. I also don't represent Buell, or much of anything other than my own OPINION... which I will freely and not so eloquently foist upon you unasked...) | ||
| Smoke |
how's the turn in now? i brought the front forks up into the trees a bit to suit my riding. good luck, tim |
