| Author | Message | ||
     Andrewb |
Dave, That's good news...  | ||
| Dave |
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html For the home tire changer... DAve | ||
| Toastertan |
Court: Thanks for the info, I bought the Service and Parts Manual as soon as I got the bike. Wouldn't own a bike without a set. Stephen and Rain Dancer | ||
| Toastertan |
Tyres: I've purchased tires from these folks for years and they are the lowest price and by far the best service of all I've tried. They are well known to the folks on the Beemer clubs. http://swmototires.com/ Stephen and Rain Dancer | ||
| Dave |
Those damn absolutes "...they are the lowest price..." Perhaps splitting hairs... Those are great prices and a set of Metzeler Z4s come in at $204.90 Ron Ayers has 'em shipped at $197.59 (sure a mess up on a tire apparently hiding out for X yrs...but they are making it right) DAve | ||
| Henrik |
Johs; yeah, that was kinda my thought to have a bracket made up. I'm just concerned with both strength of the bracket and the final alignment of the caliper. I'd have to find a shop that have lots of experience with that. Bomber; thanks that's a great idea. I don't have machining facilities, but I might be able to find a shop that could help me out. Of course I have been thinking of swapping the S2 bars over to 7/8 for slimmer and, for me, more comfortable grips. But that may not happen for awhile as it would take lots of one-of parts and re-wiring to do. Henrik | ||
| Asphaltcowboy |
Hey guys: I need some honest opinions here. I have a thing for raised white letter tires. What are the best street tires out there that have the RWL and kick ass on road grip also? Whats the average cost to have the factory marchesini rims polished, and do they look cool? I have a 2k M2 in orange. Josh | ||
| Bads1 |
Cowboy polishing the wheels look great the only thing that you will have th consider is the maintenance of keeping them like they just got polished.On the other hand you could get them chromed. That what I am doing just because I don't want to be polishing all the time.As far as RWL tires I don't know of any unless you do it yourself and can make it stay on. | ||
| Bomber |
Henrick . . .shouldn't be hard to find a shop that CAN do the work for you . . . .finding one that's interested may be more of a challenge, but, given you live in what Court's led us to be believe is the center of the universe (smile), shouldn't be much of an issue . . .. if you strike out locally, ping me, and I can arrange to do it for you (yep, I've done one for an HD buddy . . .no problems) | ||
| Henrik |
Thanks Bomber - I may take you up on your offer. Since you've followed Court's ramblings about NYC, you've probably noticed the Burger prices mentioned. Unfortunately those prices are also an indication of prices for everything else here  For example, a local "hole-in-the-wall" upholstery shop charged me $35 to staple the seat cover back on the '99 S3 seat. I could have bought my own air stapler from Harbor Freight for that price ... Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
Damnbetcha, Henrik . . .. glad to help yessir, I've followed the prices on the board . . .. only time I spent in NYC was at the Port Authority Buss Station (spenmt the night with two other young troopers and all the, ehem, picturesque denizens of that attraction), waiting for transport to Fort Monmouth NJ (back in the dim dark past), and the per diem Uncle Sam gave me for two meals was enough for a donought and some weak coffee . . . . although the prices have changed, something tells me the ratio of NY prices to not NY prices hasn't (smile) | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Unfortunately I am back.... My newly repaired rear wheel is now suffering from a pothole induced contusion. Sheesh. Anyway, the wheel may not be repairable. I am considering the swap to the newer Buell Castalloys which are much cheaper. But Buell's web site says they fit '99 - '01 Buells. Anyone know why they won't fit an S2? Spacers? Rotor? Or? Sure would be nice to get a new wheel without having to spend body parts... | ||
| Rick_A |
Toastertan...Most people get the worn washer syndrome but my old 6-button rotor had the mount holes in the carrier elongate causing severe chatter when braking hard. I switched to the new SS 9-button setup last summer and found that while the carrier to disk mounting seems bulletproof, the damn thing is already at the service wear limit. I got pads that were supposed to be stock replacement...they were labeled Ferodo...and while I had one-finger braking they've already ate up my rotor. How much life do you guys get out of your stock stainless disks? Are there grippy pads out there that won't kill the things as quick? | ||
| Toastertan |
Thanks Rick. I got the 2000 rotor upgrade today and plan on installing it over the weekend. Have new bolts and stopped by Sears for a T40 socket. The bolts have a spot of what appears to be thick wax or grease. I don't think it's a type of Locktite, but more an anti galling lube. Anyone use Locktite on the bolts? I am also wondering if the pads should be replaced with the rotor, regardless of wear.(?)I'm concerned they have the footprint of the old rotor pattern. Will they burn in flat or should I get a new set? My original rotor was not scoured, but does have slight wear grooves. Stephen and Rain Dancer | ||
| Dave |
I use locktite on damn near everything so I don't think it'll hurt. As far as the pads go...I'm cheap...er...I mean frugal so I'd only sand the pads if I had any doubts. Depends on how much is left on 'em. Consider an 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench with that T40. They can be a real beeeeee-otch to get off. DAve | ||
| Justanuff |
Can a 6 x 17 rear wheel (PVM-6) fit on a '98 S1WL? | ||
| Littledog1 |
Rob, Just went out and eyeballed the 5.5 inch PMs on my S-1. Looks like a 6 X 17 would easilly fit, the rim is a long ways from the belt. Why are you looking at a 6 X 17? I am running a 180/55 X 17 and I have about 1/8 inch clearance between the belt and the tire sidewall edge. Would running a 180/55 on the wider rim improve the tire contour or are you looking to run a 190 or 200 cross section? Mickey | ||
| Justanuff |
Mickey, Honestly, I haven't thought about the tires yet. I have a chance to buy some PVM wheels at a decent price and the rear is a 6 x 17. The paint on my stock wheels is pretty bunged up after a few years and numerous tire changes (dealers seem to care less about the looks of my bike than I do). So I'm looking at either pulling the current wheels off and trying to get them powdercoated, (but still worrying about spinning a bearing, like I've read about here) or buying a set of PVMs (already white and looking sharp). Rob Thanks for taking a look at your bike, Mine is in the garage about 10 miles from home...trying to stay dry. | ||
| Jrh |
On Buells website,in accessories they show their cast wheels for something like $335 each,choice of 5 colors.Of course if i had a choice i'd go for the PVMs,glossy black. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
I always use Loc-tite on brake rotors. Use anti-seize on stuff like primary cover bolts where I know I want to get them out again. Re PVM wheels, check here. These guys should be able to tell you what will fit an S1. I still haven't been able to find out if the new Castalloy wheels will fit my S2. Studied some bikes at Glendale HD/Buell yesterday and it looks incredibly similar to my wheel. I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and buy one and see if I can make it work. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Talked to Chris Matty at Glendale Buell and it looks like the Castalloy rear wheel is a straight bolt-on replacement for my dented Marchesini and about half the cost. I'm ordering one today. We shall see... | ||
| Jmartz |
I finally acquired a set of Marchesini wheels for my S1. Back in December of 1985 Buell was delaying shipments because Marchesini (then the provider) had not supplied them with the necessary inventory. My bike did not arrive till mid December and to my surprise it had PM wheels. These were a $500 option from Buell, cost they absorbed, for the sake of getting the bikes out. I have carefully maintained these babies over the years, performing every tire change myself to save them from scratches. While the aesthetic value of PM's is undeniable, they are impossible to clean (polish) while on the bike. They are also a bit heavier than the other choices Buell has offered. As manufacturers move more toward forged and CNC, cast wheels prices have dropped a bit. This motivated me to finally decide. I have yet to ride the bike and see if I experience a "diminished gyroscopic effect" because of a problem with the installation of the rear rotor. | ||
| Henrik |
Brake master cylinders and fluid/pressure dynamics: here's a question for y'all: How will a change in master cylinder diameter affect brake fluid pressure and braking action, in say a front brake set-up; for instance 1) on a brake system using a 5/8" master cylinder, the master cylinder is changed to a 1/2" master. 2) on a brake system using a 1/2" master cylinder, the master cylinder is changed to a 5/8" master. My thinking is that for higher pressure on the fluid, you get more braking power, but maybe also less progressive feel?? Will increasing master cylinder size increase or decrease braking power providing the same pressure on the lever? etc. etc. Henrik | ||
| Lornce |
"How will a change in master cylinder diameter affect brake fluid pressure and braking action, in say a front brake set-up; for instance 1) on a brake system using a 5/8" master cylinder, the master cylinder is changed to a 1/2" master." Henrik, the above mod would result in the production of greater hydraulic pressures and subsequent braking force accompanied by slightly greater lever travel, ie: more progressive brake 'feel'. "2) on a brake system using a 1/2" master cylinder, the master cylinder is changed to a 5/8" master." This would result in the production of less hydraulic pressure and braking force with a more wooden lever 'feel'. best, Lornce | ||
| Lornce |
Henrik, Hydraulic system pressure is the direct result of applied force. Braking force results from the product of system pressure and master/slave piston area ratios. It's kind of like liquid leverage. ie: 10lbs force on 1in2 master cyl would create system pressure of 10lbs/in2. Applied to 10in2 wheel cylinder would create braking force of 100lbs/in2. Numbers used simply to illustrate the point. To borrow a friend's annalogy.... If a fat lady stood on your foot with her heel.... Would you rather she wear loafers or stiletto heels? Hope this helps.... Lornce | ||
| Bomber |
all things being equal, the required travel of the control (lever or pedal) will increase as the diameter of the cyclinder increases . . .eventually, pesky physics gets in the way, and there's no more room for the control to move | ||
| Lornce |
Akchooly Bomber-budd, if your referring to the master cylinder, the reverse of what you suggest is true. If however, you're talking about wheel cylinders or calipers, then yes, what you said is true. Lornce | ||
| Henrik |
Lornce; Thanks for the explanation. Now, can anyone help me out? I need: 1) the center-to-center distance between X1 front brake caliper mounting bolts - in mm if possible 2) the size of an X1 master cylinder; 1/2" or 5/8"? (should be stamped on the master cylinder or the reservoir) 3) a photograph of an X1 front brake caliper. Thanks Henrik | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Henrik, my S2's front rotor is exhibiting signs of warpage (that tell-tale pulsing when braking). This is surprising as the bike has only 11.5k miles and I ride "the Pace", which emphasizes technique and de-emphasizes braking. IOW, I don't brake much at all, and when I do it's minimal. Anyway, I'm going to need to swap rotors soon. Have you figured out your pad situation with the new Buell SS rotor? | ||
| Bomber |
Lornce . . . I oughta read my posts befor posting . . . . yer right, of course, got it backwards, again (thanks for bcaking me up, sir!) |
