| Author | Message | ||
     Pkforbes87 |
I bought a 5-1/2" long cylinder of 6061T6 aluminum 2-1/4" diameter from metal supermarkets for $15. I've grown ashamed of just bolting on parts - this never ending project of mine needs to have some parts made by me. I haven't drawn anything out yet (working night shift and 12's really puts a damper on free time) but my idea is to drill a hole large enough through the center of the piece so I can tap both ends and screw in fittings that will adapt to hose barbs for my 5/16" oil lines. Q #1: What's the best method of measuring to the exact center diameter of this cylinder piece? After that my idea is to get the piece into a lathe, and cut cooling fins into it. Approximately 3/16" or 5/32" fins, and the same width grooves. I'm thinking that I need to leave about 3/16" of material alone between the outside grooves and the internal hole too. Q #2: Are those numbers about correct? How much material needs to be left untouched to maintain the durability of an aluminum part? Hopefully someone understands my uneducated ramblings and has some input. I'm an electronics guy by trade but just have to give some metal fab work a shot.  I'm picturing grooves cut the same as the above part. (around the circumfrence of the piece as opposed to lengthwise fins) It will just be smaller diameter, longer, and mount in-line instead of adapting to the filter. | ||
| Sloppy |
I know, off topic, but I figure it would save you money and time which we all can be short of... Why do you want to put an oil cooler on a bike that doesn't need one? Whatever benefit you're looking for may be managed through easier, cheaper and more reliable alternatives... Before anyone puts an oil cooler on an engine you should first measure what your bulk oil temperatures are. Since these are XL engines they are especially easy to measure with an instant read thermometer from Wally World for $5... | ||
| Jramsey |
The larger the fin and the fin count the more efficient it will be. What you pictured IMO is an oil filter stone guard more for looks than anything else. But making your own stuff is very satisfying, so find a lathe and a mentor and start making chips. I'd go about.090 minimum wall thickness. During the hot summer months in Kansas my tubers never get over 210 degrees. This time of year they run about 175-180 so I don't see the need for a cooler. | ||
| Kyrocket |
Don't waste your time or money. I bought the expensive billet one pictured and it still stays around 190-200. You'd be just as well off by getting a longer filter in my opinion. Worth, by the way, just what you paid for it. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
wow, buzzkill! Thanks James for the info. I don't care if I need one or not, I want to create something instead of bolting on yet another part that the brown truck brings me. | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
lol | ||
| Jayvee |
Pk, why don't you work on the finned Primary Inspection Cover I keep looking for? Should be pretty easy for a milling machine kind of guy. Also you could probably sell a few of them. Like to me for instance. The other thing you could do, is clean up your rear pulley. Along the lines of these: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/327089.html?1199153813 Same thing, if you wanted to you could do this for people for a small fee. Like me... | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Jay, right now I want to try only round parts that will be worked on by milling or turning symetrically around the part. The rear pulley is a neat idea and a possibility. That link has some good information and ideas too. As for the derby cover (I assume you meant Derby cover), I have NEVER done any metal fab work so don't want to try something that difficult yet. I would imagine that any stock smooth surface cover wouldn't have much extra metal to mill into anyway. I was eyeballing the black w/ fins 4 bolt Derby cover last week at the dealer, but opted for a different style. I'd love to have one of these in the garage to play around with, but it'll have to go on the "wish list".  $600 from Harbor Freight. There's a hobby shop on base here, they may have a lathe I can use for 4 or 5 bucks an hour. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Some great looking machined parts are shown here as well: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/88210.html?1126500152 | ||
| Jramsey |
Save your money, double/triple that amount and find an older 8x36 Bridgeport......use it for years then sell it and get your money back. Machines are the cheapest thing in the shop. Tooling is what kills the bank account. | ||
| Loki |
PK, Good for you on just wanting to do something for yourself. | ||
| Loki |
easy way to figure a safe number to use. Just grab a -6AN x 3/8 fitting. Look at how much materiel is there. | ||
| Sloppy |
If you just want to put custom parts on the bike then do something that will add value or performance! Here's a few easy ones: Custom rearsets Aluminum fairing stays Radial master cylinder Carbon fiber parts (yes, you can do this at home with small parts) Fix the front axle length by tapping the left fork instead of using the nut and too long axle. Integrated mirrors and turn signals. Custom rear drive pulley. There's lots of stuff that you can customize that has pride in it. It's just that a custom oil cooler fixes a problem that doesn't exist... If you're going to put time into something then make it worthwhile. Many people got their start by building parts that no one else was making so you may be able to start a new business venture as well! Good luck with whatever you choose. |
