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Hemicar
| | Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 12:25 am: | 
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a little backkground: (06 xb12ss, 3800 miles, micron exhaust, american sportbikes open airbox kit, breather re- route and catch tank, direct link and Al's tune aswell) I live in michigan and just got my bike out for the third ride of the year. started up and let it get warm and proceeded on my ride, got about a mile away and it started backfiring badly and then died. tried several times to restart at no avail until i let it sit a few minutes, started right up and ran fine for about 5 feet and backfired and dies again. finally got it runnin and sounded like it was only hitting on one cylinder so i figure, ok it fouled a plug. Go home and change the plugs out and still doin it. play around with a few things and seems like it keeps dieng when i put the seat on? so inspect all wires around seat that look like they may be rubbing? nothing. start it up with no seat, runs fine. rest my hand on the rear subframe and it dies? im now stumped. i start it up again and yank on the subframe and it cuts out and then comes back to life. check subframe bolts and there loose. tighten and locktight them and take it for a ride and perfectly fine. go for about a 10 mile ride and not a hickup. today i jump on with my girlfriend and we go for a ride, still doing it but not as badly. now it kinda surges badly but doesn't stall or backfire. get it back home and drain the fuel (i read on a car forum that many are having issues with "winter fuel" vapor locking) so im thinkin maybe this is my issue. still the same thing. one thing that was odd was before when it would backfire and stall the check engine light would flash and the cooling fan would kick on? no more of that but again it just has a miss now not stalling. i hooked up my directlink and all the reedings seemed normal (i check afvs and stuff monthly) but one reading really through me off. the engine temp jumped form 180 to 239 and the fans never came on? if you hold it at around 2200 rpms you can distinctly hear the miss while stopped, when riding whenever you crack the throttle (or put a big load on it) is when it will miss but runs fine if you back off the throttle a little bit. I did replace the battery this year and on my way home from work that night the lights were all surging like there was a charging issue, got it home and found the ground wire had came loose. tightened that and took it for a ride with no issues. any help or other ideas would be greatly appreciated |
Sparky
| | Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 04:16 pm: |
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A loose ground wire will cause almost all of the intermittent electrical snafu's if everything else is OK. I know, this sounds like a blanket statement, but since every electrical component in the ignition system depends on a solid electrical ground, it pays to check out throughly each ground connection on the bike. |
Hemicar
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 02:50 am: |
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well i rode the bike to work again tonight and pin pointed it a little better. runs fine from idle to 2000rpms from 2000-2500rpms (if you hold it there in any gear) it hesitates and bucks and backfires, twist the throttle and it goes right away and runs fine. I am honestly stumped? could there possibly be water in the fuel? why the small rpm range? I will check over the grounds and some other things but i have a feeling its goin back to the stealership (i think its still under warranty) |
Tdman77
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 03:28 am: |
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Have you tried doing a TPS/AFV reset? That seems to fix alot of problems like you describe. If you don't have ECM Spy and cable I think there is a way to do the TPS reset with out it. Might be posted here or in the Uly section. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 12:37 pm: |
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The rpm range you are having a problem with is the Closed Loop range which is mainly controlled by the O2 sensor.
An O2 sensor needs an uninterrupted connection from its sensor wire to the ECM to function correctly. The sensor wire may have an intermittent break inside the wire. This could probably be ohm tested with a multimeter between the sensor wire connector and engine and giving the wire a wiggle test.
It also needs a clean secure ground connection from the O2 sensor body (the outside part that screws into the exhaust pipe) to the pipe which provides an electrical ground via the head, the crankcase and the ground strap that goes to the battery negative cable.
There may be several things that you have done which could be a problem with this O2 sensor and its ground connection.
-- 1) You changed the exhaust system. I'm sure it has an O2 sensor port, but did you clean up the threads on the O2 sensor when you installed it?
-- 2) Did you use the stock braided metal mesh type of exhaust gasket where the pipe goes into the head?
-- 3) Is this the original O2 sensor or, if not, is it the correct type replacement? |
Id073897
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 01:20 pm: |
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the engine temp jumped form 180 to 239
Failing ETS? |
Hemicar
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 09:46 pm: |
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Yes i changed the exhaust system, and installed the original o2 sensor (bike had 1000miles when i changed) i also used the stock exhaust gaskets (i will order the new ones as i have heard that this causes and issue) Im gunna dig into it this weekend and see if i can find any broken, frayed, or loose wires. when i was workin on it this past weekend i noticed alot of loose nuts and bolts. i just never would of though that there would be such a small rpm range affected with a groundn wire |
Hemicar
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 - 09:49 pm: |
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I also did a afv reset but not a tps. i wasn't in the mood to pull all the intake stuff to verify the blade was completely closed, but i will do this, this weekend also |
Hemicar
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 01:38 am: |
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another thing i forgot to add was that on initial start-up (cold) it does not go into a high idle. it acts as if it is warm and idles steady at around 1k rpms which it has never done |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 10:33 am: |
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No need to pull much of anything to do TPS reset,you can hear and feel when the blade is closed completely. Almost a catch when you open the throttle. And there is really no "high idle" setting in ecm, only some cold enrichment so it should not idle way up like you had a choke on.
Sounds like you have an issue with harness in the rear with all of those symptoms you described. |
Hemicar
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 - 09:20 pm: |
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the idle has always been a couple hundred rpms higher when you would start it cold then any other time. then as it gets up to temp it lowers |
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06 xb12ss backfiring running badly (long)