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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through May 06, 2009 » Rear tire removal? « Previous Next »

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Mark_weiss
Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2009 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The service manual notes that the inner fender, lower belt guard, idler pulley, and brake caliper need to be removed before the rear wheel. What really needs to be done?
Mark
in Arizona
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2009 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I *think* you can:

jack the bike
pull the axle and slide the wheel forward
pull the tensioner (2 bolts to swingarm)
drop the wheel

I haven't done it with my own hands yet, but that's what I've heard. YMMV.
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F_skinner
Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2009 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You do not need to pull the tensioner off. Just loosen it.

As far as the brake it seems that I left it on the last time I did a XB but cannot be sure.
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Barker
Posted on Sunday, April 26, 2009 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

IRRC

raise rear
(jack @ jack marks on can or rear stand)
remove lower belt guard
loosen pinch bolt.
remove axle
wiggle belt off
remove wheel.

*I have never needed to remove brake on any XB I have worked on.

don't forget just a smidge anti-seize on axle on reinstall.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 07:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't even have to touch the tensioner idler. Probably because my belt is an original, stretched with 17000 on it. Once everything is back in place the belt is tight.
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Pso
Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i put more than just a smidge of anti-sieze on axle. both front and rear.
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Bienhoabob
Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Did mine last week. Only thing I do differently from Barker list is to remove two bolts to brake caliper. Then I can swing the brake assembly out of the way. It gives me a little more room to get the wheel out.

Pay attention to the installation torque values.

Good time to see if the bearings are turning properly, too.
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Dano_12s
Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 09:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just did it this weekend.Follow Barker+Bienhoabob advice.
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Adamd
Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

What is the torque value for the rear wheel? 60 ft/lbs?
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Bienhoabob
Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Rear Wheel: Tighten rear axle to 23-27 ft-lbs, then back off two full turns and retighten to 48-52 ft-lbs.
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Chadhargis
Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Barker is right.

I typically remove the rear caliper just to make things a little easier. It's so easy to do, so why not, but you don't HAVE to remove it.

Really, the only thing you have to remove is the lower belt guard and the axle (of course, loosen the pinch bolt).
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Monday, April 27, 2009 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks.
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