Author |
Message |
Ochoa0042
| Posted on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 - 08:37 pm: |
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im not sure what to expect nowadays, the p-chain is to up to spec in tension. over the course of owning the bike i've had the problem of that crunching that everyone has experianced. maybe the problem occurs because the engine has been warmed up throughly, and at the time of the crunching the metal expansion of the chain allows this crunching crap. which i dont really understand in the first place. and sometimes i try to shift by pulling in the clutch, the crunching happens, i let out the clutch, and the crunching stills happens, and the bike is in a false neutral. how the hell does the bike get into a false neutral? im there revving my engine high feeling like my bike is retarded, the clutch is engauged supposively in a gear, and it is revving untroubled by any friction. so what are the rules for a tighter p-chain, i need to know what i will be doing to do bike (Message edited by ochoa0042 on April 21, 2009) |
Boltrider
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 12:17 am: |
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Primary chain cold: 3/8" - 1/2" vertical play Primary chain hot: 1/4" - 3/8" vertical play What about your clutch cable? Have you redone your cable adjustment? (Message edited by boltrider on April 22, 2009) |
Ochoa0042
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 12:30 am: |
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to me that doesnt make sense.... if everything is measured out correctly cold, when hot the tolerance shrinks? shouldnt it expand? where did you find this at? |
Boltrider
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 12:46 am: |
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The tolerance tightens up a little when hot because of heat expansion. Those numbers are straight from the service manual. Think about a piston with rings and a cylinder wall. The piston rings are a certain distance away from the wall when cold, but when they all heat up, you have heat expansion and the rings get slightly closer to the wall, so the distance from the wall when hot is smaller than when it's cold. Same idea here, just with a chain and sprockets. (Message edited by boltrider on April 22, 2009) |
Xbrfirebolt
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 12:57 pm: |
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What about your clutch cable? Have you redone your cable adjustment? Good information. I was having problems with mine, still under warranty. I took it in to the dealer, they adjusted and oiled the clutch cable. Big difference in shifting. If you haven't done yours in awhile, you should check it. Good luck, let us know what you find. |
Rydberg
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 01:18 pm: |
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yeah, sounds to me like your not fully engaging the clutch or not pulling up on the shifter hard enough (or both) and it is finding this false neut. also, if your not in gear, don't high rev it. does not make the situation better. and lets say your in between gears and reving it and it slips and finds the gear. the bike is gonna jump. |
Aptbldr
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 01:28 pm: |
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My '04 XB still "munches" some moving between 1st & 2nd. My experiences: Clutch adjustment & lube, better. Preload shifter before clutching, much better (when I do it). Adjusting shifter relative to footpeg, much better. At only 7k miles, haven't adjusted primary; on loose side of OK at 5k mile inspect. |
Chasten
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 02:58 pm: |
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in between gears and reving it and it slips and finds the gear. the bike is gonna jump. W O R D. when this happened to me, it scared the holy bejesus out of me and almost caused a high-side. i second what everyone else said... adjust, lube, etc. with all of the troubleshooting i did on my own issue (http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=1394312#POST1394312), i never found a problem. but with all of the inadvertent maintenance required just to DO the troubleshooting, the problem seems to have fixed itself.} |
Ochoa0042
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 04:17 pm: |
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what do I use to lube the clutch cable, never done it before |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 04:22 pm: |
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http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/5387.html or http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=p3132&leafC atId=&mmyId= (Message edited by andymnelson on April 22, 2009) |
Rydberg
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 04:56 pm: |
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http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp ?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448772715&default=none use this or anything similar. how to use: follow the clutch cable down to the adjuster on the front of the frame. slide the cover back and loosen the nut all the way so you can pull the clutch to the grip and it doen not snap back. then insert the needle tip of the lube and squirt it down the cable while moving the clutch lever back and forth. it should start to move more freely. once satisfied with the amout, slowly tighten the adjuster screw back till the clutch lever is pulled back into place. it should have a little wiggle but not over tight. slide the cover back over the adjuster nut and your done. |
Ochoa0042
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 07:41 pm: |
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oh so there is a special tool to do this.. so whats the word for a tighter p-chain? |
Ochoa0042
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 10:59 pm: |
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i re-did the chain tension cold, went on a two hour ride in the hottest day of the year so far at 90degrees.. brought it back into the garage and checked the tension hot, and it was exactly the same! I didnt notice any crunches shifting up nor down, but it wasnt a very fast ride, i was a bit bored the whole time. The bikes drivetrain did feel very solid, no gaps in power delivery. I noticed that my throttle is sticking a bit and wasnt closing quick enough and am wondering if it as to do with the primary in any sort of way? |
Aptbldr
| Posted on Thursday, April 23, 2009 - 07:07 am: |
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Do XB transmissions shift differently following conversion from belt to chain drive (adding drive-line 'lash')? |
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