Author |
Message |
Birdy
| Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 05:31 pm: |
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I want a bit lower bar and not as wide either. I can get a set of Pro Taper bars that are about 1 1/2 lower and trim them to be narrower. They are 7/8" so should fit the clamps and all. Has anyone any input on doing this and one other thing I read that the Buell switches have a locating tap, can I safely cut/file it off? |
White_flashes
| Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 05:55 pm: |
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If you want narrow bars, Motocross bars are not for you. Center section (clamp area) of Moto bars are WIDE. The area where you would mount your controls is not really long enough to trim much off and still fit everything. Your looking at 30" + wide on that type of bar. IMHO thats too wide! To each his own. |
Tattoo72
| Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 06:15 pm: |
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I have Pro Tapers and like them. They are a little wide but are lower than stock. |
Eldredma
| Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 06:22 pm: |
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I have black Pro Taper Carmichaels. They're low and the wall is thick so they don't shake as much as the stock ones. I like them. |
Chippy
| Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 09:15 pm: |
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I have the schoolboy highs. Much straighter, little lower. They could be cut quite a bit if ya wanted. |
White_flashes
| Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 11:14 pm: |
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There is alot of great information on this site. Alot of this information has help me out. One bit of information that I wish I wouldn't have listened to was to buy a set of Pro Taper Carmichaels. |
Ducbsa
| Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 06:47 am: |
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You could lay out where the locating teat should be for a comfortable angle for your switches and drill new holes. |
Dogdaze
| Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 09:39 am: |
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I would definitely not cut off the tab - being a plastic housing, you'd be hard pressed to tighten the bolts down enough (without cracking the housing) to keep the 'pod' from rotating. Easy enough to mark and drill for the nib: 1)A dab of lipstick on the nib before applying the pod to the bar, marks the spot on the bar for drilling. 2)Hit the mark with a punch or nail to keep the drill bit from 'walking'. 3)Drill your indent (Message edited by dogdaze on April 19, 2009) |
Typeone
| Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 03:55 pm: |
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favorite bars on my XB hands down were the ProTaper Contour (fatbar) in the Carmichael bend, 1" cut from each side w/a Rizoma clamp. i cut the nubs on my controls at around 300mi, never had an issue. (sold the bike with 16K on it) also ran Azonics and Crossroads bars, still preferred the ProTapers |
Pabuell
| Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 09:28 am: |
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I went with Pro Taper ATV bars, the hi-rise version. They are a bit wider than stock, with a similar sweep and rise (I also installed some Precision Engineering 1" bar risers and top clamp) but not as low as dirt bike bars, allowing for plenty of bar material to cut to your preference. I have been quite happy with the extra bit of rise, and the black bars/risers/clamps looks pretty good too. |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 09:59 am: |
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I used the Pro Taper Carmichael bend bars and Fat Bar Clamps from Precision Engineering. I HIGHLY recommend both. I wanted flatter, lower and less pullback. That's exactly what I got. I would do the same again in a heart beat. I filed the nubs down and used a small piece of tape. Tightened the grips down and never had a problem in 10,000 miles. |
Xl_cheese
| Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 11:19 am: |
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The renthal street fighter bars are close to the stock width and are about 2" lower. |
Chasten
| Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 11:34 am: |
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yeah! like Typeone and Ft_bstrd, i'm running the ProTaper Contour Carmichael with the PreEng riser/clamp (wish i could have justified the expense of the Rizoma clamp, but DANG!). anyway, i love it. i cut ~3/4" off of each end and ended up about the same width as stock. with the riser and the low bars, i ended up about 1" lower than stock. overall, they are just a lot more comfortable (and look sweet). i think i just like the straighter bend (oxymoron?)... never even thought about drilling a new hole for that switch locator. cut the tab with sidecutters and have never had a problem. one thing that White_flashes said is very true... if you want narrower bars, you should probably not get MX bars. |
Cmm213
| Posted on Monday, April 20, 2009 - 08:20 pm: |
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The cr low is a good bend on all the aftermarket bar companies. I had azonic 7/8 cr lows and cut them about 1" great riding on those. They also saved my bike in september!! I went down hard and they bent maybe a inch, since they are wider and stronger they saved a lot of other things from getting damaged. My pucks didnt even get a scratch! |
Rydberg
| Posted on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 - 02:56 pm: |
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Have Pro Taper tall quad bars with the cross member on my '07 Ss. sniped off the nub, controls will spin if i try to make them but don't on their own. I like the wider grip. Very similar look to the stock Uly bars. |