| Author | Message | ||
     Bhillberg |
Ok, so I "fixed" my stud problem. I rode my X1 for about 250 miles today. About 190 before work and then the 60 mile ride home. On the way home I noticed an odd sound when I got above 4k on the tach. I was close to home and just took it easy. When I got into the driveway I got off to check for leaks around the flanges. I found that I lost both nuts on the rear flange. The flange was completely loose and had fallen down the pipe. My question on this is is there a better nut than the stock ones (same style sold at americansportbike)? The next question is I have a force pipe and upon further inspection I completely lost the orange silicone that goes in the front bandclamp. I have the updated "Y" bracket. My question on this is is there any substitutes for buying a new clamp to get the silicone? or a better way to go about it all together? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I took the nuts in to NAPA and bought some lock nuts to double nut the things. I tend to have them shake loose on the rear header more often than the front but wanted to be able to just forget them entirely. | ||
| Buellistic |
Try this: Use EXHAUST GASKETS PN 17048-98 ... Use torquing compound on all threads ... Assemble exhaust system from rear exhaust port, front exhaust port, and to rear mount of muffler finger tight ... Torque 1/2 inch nuts(header/exhaust and each with an even amount of threads) to 6 ft. lbs. max. at increments of 2 ft. lbs., then again to 4 ft. lbs., and finish with 6 ft. lbs. ... Start at rear exhaust port with 2 ft. lbs. finishing with the front exhaust port, then again 4 ft. lbs., and then finish 6 ft lbs. ... Then torque the rest of the exhaust system to TORQUE SPECS. working to the rear ... Have used this sequence for 107,096.4 miles as of the last ride and have never had any head exhaust stud/nut problems ... | ||
| Bhillberg |
Ok, thanks for the tips. Anybody know a place to get a replacement for the silicone though? | ||
| Sleez |
silicone here; looks like 9 sq ft min. http://cshyde.thomasnet.com/viewitems/silicone-pro ducts/hightemperature?&forward=1 these are the nuts i am going to use, use them on the S3, never had one back off; http://www.mcmaster.com/#91839a130/=15neik | ||
| Dfbutler |
One other suggestion, check the mounting for the entire exhaust system. I'd lost the rear hanger on the muffler and a muffler shop fabricated one, which seemed to work fine until cracks started appearing in the headers and nuts on rear worked loose. The new fabricated one was rigid and once I replaced it with an adaption of a rubber muffler hanger, the problems went away. | ||
| Bandm |
Free silicone tape samples here http://www.mocap.com/silicone-tape.asp?pc=ggl&gcli d=CM6xv9TQzJYCFQv7agodnEB9zA | ||
| Buellsrule |
This is an old article from the knowledge vault here on the badweb: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/120437.html It explains a very good solution to the exhaust problems with the tubers. I have done this mod on my S3 which has a history of exhaust "issues" and it works. The tie bar is still available from Buell and the clamps are available online. **Remember** it is very important to not have the system in a bind anywhere. You must ensure that everything lines up good with no unnecessary stress placed anywhere in the system. Start at the heads and then the rear muffler mount. You will end up at the front mount for final tightening. If you use the tie bar as described in this link, you should have no further trouble with the system. More rigidity/support is what the tubers need. That's why the XB's had a lot more attachment points and few if any exhaust issues. Hope this helps. Ride safe, Frank. | ||
| Bhillberg |
thanks for the help guys, I am off to Napa to see what they have and may have to go ahead and order the silicone offline....... or stop by the hangar I used to work at and try to aquire some | ||
| Spiderman |
forget everything you have read before, this is the ultimate losing nuts fix for tubers! Tighten per manual or any other way you like. I prefer bolting everything up loose including the muffler clamp. Then I tighten from the heads down. Ride the bike and get her up to temp. And now for the important part. VERY CAREFULLY! re-tighten the nuts while the motor is hot. I usually give em a 1/4 to 1/2 turn maybe more... | ||
| Bhillberg |
Spiderman- I did it exactly the way you said Buellistic- I did NOT use a torque wrench but ran them down equally one turn at a time. I believe my problem was from A) losing the silicone in the clamp made the aft portion loose. And B) I foolishly applied anti-sieze to the nuts as well thinking it would be better to retighten them periodically than to have them snap. I have "acquired" some high temp rubber and will make my own piece for the clamp and hopefully have this thing back up soon | ||
| Spiderman |
that sucks  the Force is notorious for either bing rock solid or pure shite, there was no in-between LOL I also got some cool 5/16 flange nuts that are serrated on the flange so once you tighten it is 'locked' in place... | ||
| Buellsrule |
The thread that I posted on here is a solution that works. I've ridden and wrenched on tubers for 10 years. I've had more than my fair share of exhaust woes. The thread I posted was originally posted by Aaron Wilson who in his day knew as much as anyone about Buell's and their problems/solutions. If you want the exhaust to hang together it's going to have to be more secure. Not only does the engine move up and down but also forward and aft. The engine has a type of rocking motion. Just sit and watch it while it idles. What's happening is the engine is trying to shake the exhaust loose from itself. All the information posted so far is good information but if you want it to last, you're going to have to further secure it so it can "hang on" to the bike. Ride safe, Frank. |
