| Author | Message | ||
     Rsh |
I thought it was the number 77 connector? Yes, I have replaced mine as well. Usually I go over all the ground connections when I do an oil change and have not had another problem. | ||
| Sneth |
yes 77 im a bubble head | ||
| H2owerker |
Wait! What? I'm still trying to learn all the finer points of maintenance on these. Where's the 77 connector? And what other connections should be checked regularly? | ||
| Nillaice |
 can some one please use noun-names/nomenclature? or maybe they are just trying to make us think we are dumb/they are super-buellers | ||
| H2owerker |
I don't mind being a 'Rube'.  But it's really sad that people rely on internet douchery so often on enthusiast forums. I wonder if it gives the same sense of accomplishment helping someone, or tackling a project have? | ||
| Froggy |
The 77 connector is the official name for it. It got its name from the service manual. It is under the front sprocket cover, and connects the voltage regulator to the rest of the bike. The connector is prone to making bad contact, resulting in the stator overcharging the bike and then leaving you stranded. Here is mine, it started to melt from arcing because of poor contact.  | ||
| 03firebolt |
I learned the hard way that if you buy a new voltage Regulator. It comes with a new setup. You just got to splice and go. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Huh,never heard of it. mabey I should take a peek at it. Learn something new everyday. | ||
| Rays |
Many threads in Big, Bad & Dirty and Knowledge Vault - straight-forward to check: http://docs.google.com/View?revision=_latest&docid =d4rbxwr_20dq5khf&hl=en  | ||
| Jdubxb |
I was a bit bummed when I found out the new VR I bought came with a different 77 connector than what's on my bike ('04 12r). The new VR comes with a connector to convert the original plug on the bike to be used with the new VR. I ended up putting the old VR back on because I had not planned on cutting any factory wiring. I also didn't like the idea of not having the proper crimping tool for the type of connector provided. However, having to go to a new type of connector is probably a good thing as I found my 77 connector to be partially melted in both female prong holes. It was probably what left me stranded last week - the charging system was not charging. Engine light came on 80 miles into my ride, bike seemed to run fine for the 2 miles before the offramp, then while slowing for the light, it started stumbling and died before I reached the light. I cleaned off the melted plastic on the male blades with a sanding roll on the Dremel, and used a tiny engraving bit to clean the female end. My question is: how do I know which socket terminal on the harness side goes to which pin on the VR end? The harness has one black and one red wire but both wires on the VR are black. Can I rely on the relative position of the wires on the VR, and just compare the old VR to the new VR to determine pos and neg? (Message edited by jdubxb on March 24, 2009) | ||
| Fastxb12r |
H2owerker that is one MESSSSSSED up G.I.F. image.  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Jdubxb- that's a good piece of info to know. Any chance you could post a photo of the new connector? At any rate, whatever you've got, it's a good reason to have a voltmeter on the bike. The voltmeter will indicate a problem with the charging system long before the battery gets low enough to cause a problem. This one: http://www.customdynamics.com/LED_battery_gauge.ht m#LED_Battery_Gauge_with_Remote_Flush_Panel_Mount_ LED is especially slick. It uses a single color-changing LED to indicate the voltage level. Ft_bstrd posted how to install it through the rear of your tach to make it look OEM. | ||
| Jdubxb |
I ordered the signal dynamics voltmeter shortly after the incident. The engine light comes on way too late to be of any use. I'll have to look up the post for the clean install. I'll take some pics next time I have it apart. The new connector uses tubular male pins and corresponding female sockets. It seems to be a more reliable connection (in terms of contact surface area) than the original bladed terminals. The new VR also came with an extra connector so I can convert the old VR and be able to keep it as a spare. How thoughtful! | ||
| Froggy |
Yep that voltmeter is how I caught it early. Turns out mine was going when I bought the bike (used, 15k miles.) I noticed the light would almost never turn green, so thats when I did some investigating and saw the connector damage. I cleaned it up a bit and put it back together, it worked better than when I bought it. I still had my dealer replace the stator and VR under warranty just to make sure everything is good. As for the new connector, it looks the same as the old one as far as I can tell. I had the work done last September. The in dash voltmeter is the single best mod ever  | ||
| 03firebolt |
The new connector comes with a diagram that highlights which wire is positive and ground. I think the old connector has A and B wires and the new connector uses 1 and 2. Still the same general setup though. The one i got didnt include any instructions. But after about 5 min of looking at it i saw the letters and numbers. Still works after about 3 weeks so im thinking its good. | ||
| Hexangler |
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freaks H2 must be a Ramones fan! Gabba gabba hey! | ||
| Xl_cheese |
Exact cause of this: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/442480.html?1237763157 | ||
| Oxygen151 |
Would putting dielectric grease on this connection help at all with future corrosion and failure? | ||
| Jdubxb |
03firebolt: I looked and couldn't find anything to identify which wire on the VR goes to pos or neg. Nothing imprinted on the connector itself and nothing mentioned in the printed material. Any other thoughts? oxygen: I found quite a bit of water in the other connector (the one going to the stator) after I had just washed the bike. I plan to get some dielectric for that connection. I don't think it would've helped the 77 connector. I think the 77 suffers from poor contact area, at least with the older blade design. The newer hollow pin design appears to be a more reliable design. | ||
| 03firebolt |
When i did mine, I looked at the old connector when it was still connected, then matched the new VR wires together with the old, The part is still the same, the only thing different is the connector style. After you match those up just make sure you still keep the wire that was on the red side of the old connecter on the red side on the new connector. then do your grounds the exact same way. So basically, the easiest thing to do is pull your old VR off and plug it in with it off the bike just so you got easy access and you can make sure your wires are running straight, then match up your wires. Dielectric Grease is never a bad thing to have. (Message edited by 03firebolt on March 25, 2009) | ||
| Jdubxb |
Ok, so you're saying the relative position of the individual wires coming out of the VR is the same for both the new and old VR's? Without sounding too much like a pansy, can you do that without cutting open the wire loom that the bundle of wires is wrapped in? | ||
| 03firebolt |
Well, i guess you could. as long as the wires are straight and not twisted. But im pretty sure the wires are just zip-tied tight? Well on my 03 9r they are. So that was no big deal to open that wire wrap. But really either way, as long as you wires are straight, you should be able to just match them up. |
