Author |
Message |
Snp304
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 08:16 am: |
|
ok, please listen and give input. I am at a loss. I have a 97 M2 with just over 13k on the odometer. Ever since I got it (used) I have had this issue with it. It seems to be happening more frequently.... Cruising down the road, no problems, then all of a sudden I lose power, bike bogs and backfires through the muffler, sometimes can rev it up and get through the issue, but now is becoming harder to "get through". This morning seemed to run ok at higher rpm...had it in 3rd gear running about 60 and was ok, as soon as I up shifted it started to bog. Seems to happen hot/cold, short runs or long and in any gear. Sometimes it takes 20+ miles before it happens....Bike starts and idles fine, but when it is haveing the issue, go to take off in first gear and it sputters and stalls out. Will start right back up and sometimes will be just fine after that and other times will continue to act up. I have replaced leaking intake gaskets, bike has a new coil and new cam position sensor. Plugs and wires have been replaced. I have two cv carbs and doesn't matter which one is on the bike, and I have switched out the Electronic Ignition Module with a known good unit. Bike came stock but since have added a new V&H muffler and Screaming Eagle air filter in place of the breadbox.. I figure if it is a mechanical issue it would be present all the time. Don't think it is fuel since it happens with either carb on the bike. I'm wondering about the VOES since it does advance the timing depending on vacuum. But the switch is either on or off depending on the vacuum available..... Anyway, please give some input, ideas and suggestions, I'm at a loss and do not have the dough to take it too a shop, besides it probably would not act up which would be my luck.....any questions just ask, I will try to answer...thanks in advance |
Snp304
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 08:19 am: |
|
forgot to add, that it is not the vent valve on the tank, will act up even with the fuel cap off the tank |
Tim
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 08:45 am: |
|
I have a 1999 M2. My relay for the clutch/sidestand safety switches started to go bad and caused intermittent running issues similar to yours, plus occasional starting problems. |
Tim
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 08:50 am: |
|
Re-reading your post, my bike did not "bog down" but would "cut out" and then "re-fire". |
Hootowl
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:30 am: |
|
If you have not bypassed your kickstand safety switch, it is recommended that you do so. The switch cuts out the ignition, and if it's flaky, it'll cause problems. |
F_skinner
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:45 am: |
|
What you described sounds a lot like fouled plugs. Maybe your main jet is a little large. Do you know what size they are. If you replaced the carb you probably already thought of this. Maybe a short or ground wire? |
Limitedx1
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 11:08 am: |
|
Ya my guess is ground wire, or a wire is pinched or something. i would say 100% electrical |
Sleez
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 11:21 am: |
|
i'd check the voltage regulator wire! mine was broken inside the insulation, couldn't tell from the out side, and it would make intermittent connection since the insulation wasn't broken, around the cam cover, IIRC! i troubleshot it by replacing the VR, proved it was bad, then found the bad wire, spliced it, returned the new VR and reinstalled the old one, worked great for at least 15k more miles. |
Snp304
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 03:25 pm: |
|
ok, just got up...I work the night shift. Have not looked at the bike, but can say that the kickstand safety switch has been bypassed. I have gone through the wiring before, basically had the bike torn down and ohmed all the harness that had to do with ignition while moving/pulling on it...never checked the voltage regulator thanks for the suggestions, keep them coming.. Mike |
Psycrow
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 03:45 pm: |
|
had the very same issue and it was corroded contact in the Safety switch relay up under the seat. You run without a Hugger by chance? |
Snp304
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 04:34 pm: |
|
just found the kickstand safety switch connector loose. The switch has been bypassed but the harness for the switch where it connects into the main wiring harness was loose. The tab was broken on the connector. So I just zip tied the two connectors together. The voltage regulator wiring tests ok...Safety switch relay is not corroded, nice and clean...keep the suggestions coming..getting ready to put the bike back together, but probably won't get to go out for a spin until tomorrow.... Psycrow, forgive my knowledge, but what is a hugger? |
Texastechx1
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 07:32 pm: |
|
the piece of plastic that hugs the rear tire, sometimes called the fender (not the painted tail above it) |
Texastechx1
| Posted on Friday, March 20, 2009 - 07:34 pm: |
|
if you ride without this 'hugger' any water that you run over can be flung toward a few electrical parts under the seat and give you problems, just ask me how i know! |
Snp304
| Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 06:57 am: |
|
yep, ride without the hugger. Fill me in on your experience |
Psycrow
| Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 01:06 pm: |
|
Without going into detail my hugger was buggered up on day one of my Americade trip last year, had to take it off. Day 3 we hit bad rain and had to drive in it all day. Middle of the afternoon we stopped for a coffee and my 02 M2 wouldn't restart. You could jump it but no fire with the start button. Jumped it home and tore into the manual. Ended up being the Safety Switch relay under the seat. Just a note on that relay, most later model Tubers have 4 safety switches (neutral, kickstand, clutch, bank angle) and they all route to that relay. Factory HD relays have the cover simply snapped on and water and crud can easily penetrate into the relay itself so even if the block looks clean the relay can be corroded inside. I replaced them both with aftermarket relays made by Drag Specialties that are sealed with epoxy. I strongly suggest upgrading these relays if you ride without a hugger. |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 01:25 pm: |
|
Psycrow, can you link us to the replacements you used please? I wouldn't know the first place to look...Thanks! |
Snp304
| Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 04:19 pm: |
|
well, wouldn't you know it. The freaking kick stand switch wiring was the problem. Just got back from a 50 mile road trip with absolutely no problem what so ever. Like I said the wiring had been jumped, but the tab on the harness side connector was broken, allowing the switch side wiring to make and break contact.... I actually made it harder for myself. Every time the bike would act up I would pull the clutch in. The bike would have died every time if I didn't pull the clutch in which might have helped in the diagnosis. I would pull in the clutch and roll the throttle, the ignition system was trying to shut down and I was dumping fuel into the cylinders which was causing the backfire through the exhaust.....chalk this one up to learning something new. I worked on cars for 15 years and am now learning about bikes.....just mine anyway... Thanks for all the insight/help/suggestions... Mike |
Psycrow
| Posted on Saturday, March 21, 2009 - 05:02 pm: |
|
Brinnutz, Here is the link to the relay on Dennis Kirk (where I got them) but its a Drag Specialties item so you could get them from anybody that carries their stuff. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=pH20880&lea fCatId=&mmyId= Psy |
|