| Author | Message | ||
     Kdogshirow |
I have been using my recently purchased ECM Spy on my 07 XB9R and was wondering if anyone has any tips on making adjustments in the fuel map "cells" . I have read the tuning guide over and over , and find it a little vague in areas . In the different "cells" how many #s do you raise it and in the surrounding cells ? Do you look a the color shading to ? Is red rich ? I had a little stumble around 2000 to 3400 rpm and raised the #s around 7 to 10 digits in the mid cruising range and it seems to have helped , but now it seems to be popping more when I let off the throttle . I will have to sort that out . Do you just pick a section such as wide open throttle and start adding till it starts to bog ? In the tuning guide it says you will get the feel for it , I find that a little vague . | ||
| Rhpaw |
did you do any live datalogging? | ||
| Swordsman |
Whew, dude, you're braver than I. Changing cells without having a full understanding of what you're doing seems like begging for a meltdown. I would guess that you enriched the mix too much where the throttle position is low. You're backing off the throttle, but the RPM hasn't changed yet, and it's too rich. You can't just add to the entire throttle position for a certain RPM range, it has to be specific for "X" throttle position at "Y" RPM. That's why it's so tricky, and requires data logging, and quite possibly a wideband O2 sensor install. yes, the manual is incredibly vague. You'll need to do a thorough search of BadWeb to find out how to really work that thing.  ~SM | ||
| Slaughter |
If you are trying to learn dyno-tuning without the dyno access or if you don't have datalogging capability - better step back away from the keyboard until you CAN measure air/fuel. Guessing is very risky. | ||
| Xl_cheese |
go back to you stock settings and try this lil mod. Problem with changing anything inside the CL region is that the O2 sensor is active the the bike will alway try to run at 14.7:1 no matter what the number is in the cell.  Bump each box up a point. this will make the bike run a little bit more rich in CL and may help your stumbling. Then experiement with bumping up the numbers 2 points. You only need to press the burn button on that screen. This is a safe and easy thing to do. If you want to prove to yourself that you're doing something then watch the ego. corr number in CL idle (small box will be yellow while in CL). If your ego corr is ~100 before mod then you make the changes and now your ego is ~105 then you can be sure that you're bike is more rich. THus more power. | ||
| Pashlipops |
Have you turned the "White Wire" off yet? I would be loathed to adjust the O2 sensor voltage above for two reasons: 1. The O2 sensor is designed as a switch (although Xl_c's experience suggests changing the voltage gets him the results he wants) 2. You will run richer in open loop, including during decels, which means more popping and potentially having difficulty getting to idle. My advice would be to log some data as Rhpaw mentions, then adjust the FRONT fuelling as this is free to play with... Worked a treat on mine... | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
on bumping the voltage. it does run a little richer by values seen in the widebands. but you can go no more the 4 points max on a NB sensor. I recommend 1 point up on the mid and max. also get the bike fully warm when setting the fuel at idle. you will need a few timing changes to smooth the idle out of 07 and older bikes. 08 and up are fine on timing at idle. move the cells one number at a time watching the ego on the fuel. at idle i am seeing a 5/7 point more fuel avg on idle for the front cylinder. this is due to a few things. some upper rpms are different. every bike is different. your best way to read it is with a wide band separately in front and rear tubes as I do. at the dyno a bung is applied to each tube and directly feed into the dyno or a sniffer is used on each tube. I prefer the wideband o2 way over a sniffer. why it is closed and you are getting full exhaust system use with out tubing shoved into the ports. I can post pics of my setup. plus i run a 13.8 afr at idle just fine on the street bike and the race bike I work on.open loop fuel is 13.6 and wot is avg 13.2 to 13.4 closed loop 14.2 with out over correction once you set the ecm to run this way. the newest finding is the plugs we are all using. get the irdiums out. run the copper core standard NGK same heat. cheaper and hotter spark with nology wires or run nology b2s silver plugs with nology wires. this is the best you will get on the spark. a better spark and burn a better idle and power. mike | ||
| Mmcn49 |
After two split spark plug boots on the Buell plug wires, (one came that way from the factory) decided to replace them. After reading this about Nology, went with Magnecor. Couldn’t be happier. http://iwcweb.com/eclipse/html/warning.html |
