Author |
Message |
Micromachine
| Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 01:46 pm: |
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does anybody have any good tips or thought about adjusting my push rods? I just rebuilt my 97 s1 with a thunderstorm top end, ss push rods, and a zippers push rod conversion kit. I started the bike for the first time yesterday and the valve train was making all kinds of noise! just looking to get some more info befor i go readjust them, i would like to only do it one more time, thanks |
Guell
| Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 01:50 pm: |
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I thought that it will make all kinds of racket until the lifters have fully bled up. |
Micromachine
| Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 01:59 pm: |
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how long does that take? |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 03:16 pm: |
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a lap around the block did it for mine a couple months ago. I was worried too at all that racket - thought I put something back together wrong |
Micromachine
| Posted on Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 03:54 pm: |
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cool thanks, i let it run for a minute about three times, maybe i should let it run for a while longer before i go messin with stuff. any more suggestions? |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 02:22 am: |
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My buddy's bike made an awful racket when first started-up after a rebuild. I would have torn it apart to look again. He went for a ride to the end of the block. All was fine. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 10:44 am: |
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So you went with adjustable pushrods with the hydraulic lifters? What's the point of doing that? Are you able to remove the lifters and pushrod tubes without popping off the rockers? |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 12:17 pm: |
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Adjustable pushrods allow you to remove them without tearing the engine down. This also allows to work on the lifters without a teardown. Plus side is you don't have to tear the engine down for intial install. Simply use a bolt cutter to cut the old ones and the adjustable ones will go right in. |
Davefl
| Posted on Monday, March 16, 2009 - 01:29 pm: |
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I used adjustable pushrods instead of getting custom length ones when I installed my reduced base circle cams (N80). |
Buellistic
| Posted on Tuesday, March 17, 2009 - 10:23 am: |
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WHY WOULD ANYONE WANT TO PUT HEAVIER PUSH RODS IN AN ENGINE THAT ALREADY HAS A "TOO" HEAVY VALVE TRAIN ??? |
Slc4me
| Posted on Tuesday, March 17, 2009 - 06:13 pm: |
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Blah too heavy blah blah lol There are ways too lighten the valve train my bikes have no problem running the times |
Buellistic
| Posted on Tuesday, March 17, 2009 - 10:40 pm: |
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Remember, the devil is in the details !!! |
Micromachine
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 05:06 am: |
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so, no more advice? |
Rich
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 06:11 am: |
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They should quiet down, if not, try again. Make sure that you let the lifters bleed down after each pushrod is adjusted. Adjustables can be removed from a big twin without disassembly, not an XL. Mine won't come out, anyway. |
V74
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 06:42 am: |
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1. how do you cut the pushrod on the initial install as the pushrod tubes are solid as well,you have to take the lower rocker covers off for the install, 2. i dont think you need adjustable pushrods unless you have changed the cams and the have a different base circle, 3. yes you can lower weight of valve train in other areas but why add unnecessary weight in the first place, |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 08:39 am: |
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Personally the only valvetrain mod I'm interested in is cams and roller rockers. I can't think of any work ill be doing that would need the pushrods removed and not require removing the rocker boxes as well anyway. Adjustable pushrods sound like one more thing that has to be maintained. No thanks. |
Micromachine
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 01:55 pm: |
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when you put new heads on you have to change the pushrods, it was either adjustable or custom, adjustable seemed easy, there also aluminum i dont think there much more weight, and as far as the maintanice goes, nobody said horsepower comes easy! anyway thanks to the guys who had something usefull to say. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 04:54 pm: |
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On OEM heads, as long as the valve stem protrusion from the cylinder valve pocket, ie: minimum 1.975 inch(50.165 MM) and maximum 2.011 inch(51.079 MM) OEM solid push rods will maintain proper hydraulic preload(with OEM cams, head,and base gaskets) ... When you piece part your make it run better(ie: HOP-UP)parts, the easy way out is adjustable push rods that are a bit heavier ... Myself, "i" like 1.75 to 1 ratio rocker arms ... |
Wreckgar
| Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 04:16 pm: |
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"does anybody have any good tips or thought about adjusting my push rods? I just rebuilt my 97 s1 with a thunderstorm top end, ss push rods, and a zippers push rod conversion kit. I started the bike for the first time yesterday and the valve train was making all kinds of noise! just looking to get some more info befor i go readjust them, i would like to only do it one more time, thanks" To adjust your pushrods, lengthen them until you get 0 lash and then give them an additional 3 turns. That is all the tighter they need to be. Lock the nuts together and leave them alone. *******correction*********** Screamin Eagle gets 2 additional turns S&S gets 4 (Message edited by wreckgar on March 22, 2009) |
Buellsrule
| Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 08:27 pm: |
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Everything you wanted to know about cam, lifters and pushrods install: http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_xlcaminstall.s html Adjustable pushrods are not created equal. Make sure you know the "thread count" of your particular pushrod. The "3 turn method" WILL NOT work for all makes of pushrods. Read the article carefully. Frank |
Wreckgar
| Posted on Sunday, March 22, 2009 - 08:42 pm: |
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good catch frank, i corrected myself above. |
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