Author |
Message |
Rockstarblast1
| Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 09:56 pm: |
|
well the bike is sitting hre week 2 and still never rode it because of this 12 degree weather in ohio. so im making a list of thinga i can mod or do while i wait..not huge stuff but stuff. like the seat pins...anything else cool from american sportbike (iwanna order evertyhing soon at the same time) iallready plan on traction grips and bar ends (any brand i should look at?) also i am going to need a hang and pic would be great on the de-noid and tie the what evers togethr lol thanks hope to hear ome ides chriss |
P_squared
| Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 10:11 pm: |
|
Another 'noid removal question? Can we get a sticky posted here & in the KV for it? Please? The $6 resistor from Buell is part # Y0248.1AM. The 3 methods of eliminating the noid are: 1) Remove the cable, but leave the noid plugged in. 2) Leave the cable, but unplug the noid (need the $6 resistor) 3) Remove the noid entirely (need the $6 resistor). All 3 of the above will stop the 'failure to accelerate' condition when you meet the criteria to activate the noid. Steps for option #1: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Safetywire/zip tie cable out of way of other moving parts. Steps for Option #2: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Unplug noid at connector and plug in resistor. Steps for Option #3: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Unplug noid at wire harness connector. 8. Insert resistor into plug in wire harness. 9. Remove noid. Pics can be found here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/367280.html |
Clarkjw
| Posted on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 - 11:35 pm: |
|
My list, in order: Avid MotoGP/WSBK viewing Complete Solenoid Removal Targeted Injectors XB9 Tuning Software Race Brake Pads : Drummer Exhaust Trackday @ Laguna Ohlins Rear Shock Ilmberger Carbon fairing/SquidProof pod convertors Race License Pirelli Diablo Superbike slicks Lap behind Jaime Hacking @ Miller Bore out to 1200RR Chain Conversion kit Trackdays.... Carbon Fiber Wheels Carbon Fiber Rotors AMA Runner up! FIM Homologation License WSBK Race Win! |
Carbonbigfoot
| Posted on Thursday, March 05, 2009 - 12:09 pm: |
|
Here's a free one. Remove the inner airbox. Free, 100% reversible, sounds wicked, feels like it increases power at sub legal speeds, and it's free! Rob |
Marcodesade
| Posted on Friday, March 06, 2009 - 11:46 am: |
|
+1 on the airbox removal. It takes about 5 minutes and SEEMS to boost acceleration --- but that may just be because you sound like a dive-bombing Mustang on the freeway onramp. BTW, my own observation after 500 miles is that this mod does not affect fuel economy at all. My next thought is that since you're halfway there anyway, you might as well take the extra few minutes and denoid. Removing the cable alone is the easiest, but I'm probably going to go back in and gut the whole thing next. |
Usmoto
| Posted on Sunday, March 08, 2009 - 06:26 am: |
|
I went with option #1 on the noid. Next on my list is I'm repairing a set of the rear turn signals. Yeah I know there's a dealer fix but I'm an electronics tech and I like tinkering with stuff like that. I get an idea in my noggin some times and it won't go away 'till I do something about it. Rock on Buell! |
Kttemplar
| Posted on Sunday, March 08, 2009 - 04:41 pm: |
|
One of the indispensable mods that I have on my bike is the sliders. The Dark Horse moto axle sliders have worked great for me. I have the sliders that are metal with a Delrin button on the end. I originally had DH bar ends as well, but traded them out for the Rhino Moto extra long bar ends. All of the sliders have saved me lots of money in replacement parts when I dumped my bike at 50 mph. Because of the sliders it cost less than $300 to replace the misc. parts damaged in the "incident". It also cost me $0 to replace parts when the kickstand decided to "quit" in the driveway a while ago. No damage, thanks to the sliders. One of the fender eliminators (Tail Tidy/Jardine etc.) is also a must. It really cleans up the rear of the bike. Pazzo shorty levers are also a good thing for your list. Mike (Message edited by kttemplar on March 08, 2009) |
|