| Author | Message | ||
     Pkforbes87 |
I know this will most likely start a drawn out oil debate, but does anyone just have a short answer yes or no? I'm gonna be breaking in a new 1250 top end on a bottom end with 6600 miles. Any reason not to use the royal purple maxcycle 20w50 I have? | ||
| Brinnutz |
Already put together? Damn. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
No I'm waiting on a swingarm mounting block to finish being polished. How effing long can it take? It and the swingarm have been gone for almost 3 weeks now. As for putting her back together, just give me one weekend without working duty section and I'll have that bitch on the road  | ||
| Kyrocket |
It's obvious he doesn't have kids  | ||
| Thunderhead |
most of my experience is in chevy race engines. around here we have always used straight 30w oil on engine break in.these air cooled engines are new to me. | ||
| Jramsey |
Hey pk I know your uncle Phillip and aunt Shirley. | ||
| Yo_barry |
Use standard Dino oil for first 1k miles. Let the rings get seated, then switch to syn. First oil change at 100 miles, btw. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Hey Jramsey! Yeah I saw your response on the other post but I felt bad about just chatting in the guy's for sale ad.. It's been a while since I've even seen Phillip. I remember getting a ride on his Fatboy long before I ever got into riding or Buells. Did you know him when he still had his Charger? I think it was a '69.. can't believe he sold it, that was a SWEET car. If you see him, tell him the other Phillip says hi. To minimize confusion at family events, he's Phillip Dean, and I'm Phillip Keith. Kyrocket - no kids, very happily single, and 500 miles from family. Those circumstances have their cons too, but it leaves me a lot of time for the hobbies of my choosing. Yo_barry - thanks for the advice. I was planning on oil changes at 100, 500, and 1k miles then every 2k, just wasn't sure what oil to break in with. Now I do! Thanks again. | ||
| Bads1 |
Phillip, S&S use's syn on all there new engines. All the screaming eagle HD's are Syn right from the factory.Rev.performance builds engines run all syn. Dyno is not needed. | ||
| Aesquire |
I agree. Run the synthetic way before 1000 miles. I personally, like to run Dino for the first 100 miles, then switch. I'm a nut about getting that fist ( er, first )load of engine shavings out. And I know what to look for in familiar, good oil. 100-500-1000-2000- intervals is good judgment IMHO. (Message edited by aesquire on February 18, 2009) | ||
| Ducxl |
I broke in my new 996 engine with Synth. I like the procedure of running it hard to seat the rings.With over 3000 miles,the 996 burns NO oil and runs like a Superbike. I couldn't find my beloved Mobil1 recently and have stocked up on this stuff called Royal Purple.It's in the newly maintained X1.Don't know anything about it,but it's 20w-50 sounds right. | ||
| Flyin_brian |
I break mine in with Dyno oil, only because it is cheaper! I hate paying $12 per quart for something I am going to replace in one tank of gas. | ||
| Bhillberg |
I know it is apples and oranges but on air cooled aircraft engines you always break in with dino oil, then switch after a certain amount of hours to synthetic. It is supposed to be the whole thing of letting the rings seat. Of course these are different and if the manufacturer is doing it then it must either be ok, or they are wanting you to buy another engine | ||
| Buellboiler |
No. Use dino for break in of all engines. If you use synthetic you will not break in the engine (i.e. set the rings). If you insist in synthetic I would use a lighter weight than normal. Open an engine that has been run only on synthetic and you will see what I mean. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
"I hate paying $12 per quart for something I am going to replace in one tank of gas." That's pretty good reasoning. I think I'll go with dino for the first 1k. No offense to any of you who've posted the tech reasons to break in with dino. Oil discussions always show multiple opinions, facts, and very convincing arguments. I'll go with the fact that I want to save $$$ Thanks to everyone for your input! | ||
| Sloppy |
Here's the scoop -- you can go ahead and use synthetic oil. The important part is you follow the recommendations for proper ring sealing. Basically keep the piston speeds low, vary the engine speeds, but allow short bursts of load, and make sure there's adequate cooling and flushing cycle. Most people DON'T use synthetics because you should be changing your oil frequently during the break in period and hence you completely loose the primary benefit of using synthetic oil. In other words, why feed your dog T-Bone steaks when Alpo has all the nutrition that a T-Bone has? MAKE SURE YOU USE AN API "C" OIL! "C" oils have more detergent properties which are especially important on break in. I'd recommend the use of "dino" oil with a full oil & filter change at 200, 500 and 1000 miles and switch to Synthetic after the 1000 miles. At minimum, follow what the builder recommends. | ||
| Ducxl |
In my case,my engine already had over 14000 miles.I re-did the top end. Kind of off topic but,back in 2002 when Ducati unveiled their newest iteration of their watercooled Desmoquattro,they found a strange malady.THe bikes began forcing oil thru the crank vent and into the airbox.I mean,oil was dripping out of the bike. In the end,they found the rings NOT seating properly and combustion gasses making their way past the rings and causing high internal crank pressures pushing the oil out of the engine. Some cases required a new top end.BUT,some cases were solved by a severe thrashing.High RPM running enabled the rings to properly seat. My motto is " break it in like you stole it". | ||
| Sloppy |
And it'll last like you stole it... All depends on type of ring seal finish -- and the people that know that is the designers... Similar thing happened with BMW's as well. But the difference is that it was all covered by warranty... unlike if you broke it in like you stole it... Welcome to the "engine rumor break in" club... | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I just picked up a case of HD 20w50 dino oil. Will be riding the bike in accordance with break-in procedure, and changing oil at 100, 500, 1k, and 2k. Then it's back to the RP MaxCycle  I think I'll give Dan a call to hear his specific recommendations on breaking in "his" engine kit. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
I only run Dino oil in the tuber. But that's just me. | ||
| Buellistic |
The most important thing is breaking the RINGS in correctly no matter what oil you use ... First 60,000 miles Harley-Davidson 20W50 Dino oil ... From 60,000 miles to current, as of the last ride, 106,551.0 miles on SYN3 20W50 ... Have not had the TOP-END off yet ??? | ||
| Kalali |
Well, just to add to the controversy... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
edit: I did some searching through the KV and found some very good points concerning break-in. Sounds like applying an increased load on the engine (spirited acceleration and engine braking) will help seat the rings, but that does not necessarily mean getting into the higher rpm range. And spirited does not mean WFO. I talked to Dan today, and will be breaking this one in by the book - heat cycles, oil changes, and even the dreadful 3200 rpm limit  I just don't have the money to experiment with other methods.. (Message edited by pkforbes87 on February 20, 2009) | ||
| Skntpig |
I broke mine in using the method from the website that Kalai posted. I also break in all my new cars like this too. Get it fully warm then don't be afraid of full throttle and running through the gears. I just didn't try to break it and certainly didn't go to redline. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Motoman is a bit harsh to my sensibilities. Heat cycles, yes WFO/Shutoff throttle pulses w/ no steady speed, sure. Lower rpm, no lugging - absolutely. oil? Dino for at least 500 miles then any good synthetic. Z | ||
| Cheddarheads4erik |
Yeah, here's another 2 cents in saying no to synth. on break-in. We use Castrol 20-50 as it is a detergent oil at 50/100/500 intervals, then 2500-3000 from there. I have found some interesting and weird science as far as ring seating is concerned on air cooled twins. As somebody above noted they are not really actually completely seated for 30-60K miles. How can you tell? Pay attention to your fuel mileage. You'll have a "holy f*#k" moment one day in figuring your mpg at the pump, and have an ah-ha moment. It's tedious crap that's probably a TMI for most folks, but hey, we're all different and that's the beauty of America and the bikes we ride. What motor work did you do?  |
