| Author | Message | ||
     Don Casto (Doncasto) |
Why is this man smiling? -Dr. Bob, Buell Proctologist, finding no additional prostate swelling on his Cyclone?  Photo taken on September 14 at the Brazzos Lookout breakfast ride, BRAG Southwest Retreat. | ||
| Peter Moltmann (Pete) |
For anyone wondering who John Britten, or the bike, is on the discussion page, this be them.  | ||
| Anonymous |
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| Anonymous |
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| vik (Eeeeek) |
Thank you, Anonymous! I've been looking for that custom mod, myself. | ||
| Mark T |
That's the best driving lights yet, tell me the high beams are temperature activated. No tan lines, must ride around like that all summer. As a bonus they look factory, not an aftermarket add on. | ||
| Frank Ostrow (Fpostrow97s3) |
Mark, I have to disagree with you. Provided you mount the aftermarket lights properly you should have no vibration related failures. My wife has had her aftermarket lights for 47,000 miles and we have yet to have any problems. The factory should know that no matter what they say people are going to try to attach aftermarket products. Besides the factory standard lights are only used to conform to EPA guidlines. The aftermarket lights are upgradeable and provided you use a reputable supllier, Brala or Glanz and Hinds come to mind, you should have a substantially longer warranty period. So don't feed me this line of s___ about how what the factory does is best for everyone and we should just leave the bikes as they are. If that was the case I would have bought a jap bike. Besides we all know how superior there lights are. In fact I heard that the new Suz Hairybusha has sealed beam hallogen lamps which emit beams at faster than the speed of light. Let's see an american company come out with anything like that. You guys make me sick. Oh, you were talking about her T__.....never mind. | ||
| Anonymous |
Brave Lassie as from what I have been told it can get very nipply I mean nippy at the island. | ||
| Anonymous |
I would like to know wich one of you motor head nit wits thinks that retarding the timming 1 degree would make a damn bit of a diffrance in the spark knock? Also in response to Josh (josh) True you have a point in the brake comming loose. But really do you have to have your girl freind fight your battles? ( Grow up)! as far as the diffrance in brake rotors there is none! They measure the same. Use a mic! I would also like to know what your going to say when it cools off? It must be the timming. LOL Josh Couldn't you hear the brake dragging? or would you ride to calif. like that?(Must have been sleep riding) Makes me wounder what kind of riders we have now a days. | ||
| Peter Moltmann (Pete) |
 How to beat the camera. (Try #3......) | ||
| Don Casto (Doncasto) |
Hurray, Peter! I knew you could do it! Great photo, by the way. I went out to try it on my S3T and hurt myself. I must not be a flexible (or coordinated) as the guy in your shot. Anybody know where I can get a truss cheap? Don | ||
| Robert Buccarelli (Buellmotor) |
Carving Asphalt at Bear Mountain in NY with my '97 M2. Check out the Duck in the background. Buck  | ||
| ken w |
annoyance or whatever your name is...retarding your timing 2 deg or even three WILL eliminate most or all of the spark knock on carbed buells as long as the lean 42 pilot is replaced with a 45. p.s. your midrange will be stronger but you will lose a little top end. play nice with the other kids.... ken w buell sales | ||
| Dempsy de Beer 00' X1 (Grizzly) |
Pete, This photo RULES, I'll go to the gym and start working on flexibility :+) Grizzly 00'X1 | ||
| Kerry Monroe |
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| mike jaquet (Mike) |
HEY! It's the model for the t-shirt! | ||
| mike jaquet (Mike) |
PS, why is the front wheel still on the ground? |
