Author |
Message |
Gowindward
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 08:59 am: |
|
I have some bike parts that I want to paint and I'm shopping for a paint gun. I came across one of these at a local discount store for $50 www.aircompressors.us.com/010-0018CT-Gravity-Feed- Spray-Gun.html. Looks like it would do the job, but don't know if you need the "Cadillac" of paint guns to get a top quality paint job. I've always heard it was way more in the prep work, but don't know. Please share your experiences. |
Etennuly
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 02:42 pm: |
|
I ride the fence on those econo guns. I have used these kind of guns in the past and they seem to work well on some solid color paints. My experience shows that they do wear out fast, but that won't be an issue for what you are doing. I put similar kinds in the hands of apprentice helpers learning to spray primer and for edging. Quality is as quality does. I have seen some of the Korean off brand and Chinese off brand stuff that spray fairly well and some suck. That is a trial and error by expense program. Buying a real brand name gun is an investment in tools, but overkill for a personal project is easily had. Maybe look to tool auctions, or flea markets for a 'real' used one. |
Woody1911a1
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 03:45 pm: |
|
this is a nice starter setup from a top name in spray guns . comes with 1.3 and 1.8 for the large gun . http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailm ain.jsp?itemID=15987&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=133 9&iSubCat=1354&iProductID=15987 just found it on amazon for $91 + 13.84 ship http://www.amazon.com/STARTINGLINE-AUTO-PAINTING-TOUCHUP-SYS/dp/B0015LM088/ref=sr_1_175?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1235768846&sr=1-175 (Message edited by Woody1911a1 on February 27, 2009) |
Oldbiker
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 04:25 pm: |
|
First........do you have a HVLP commpressor...if not forget about those guns...if your using a home compressor do yourself a favor.......get a harbor freight spray gun to practice with and then toss it when you outgrow it. Steve |
Eboos
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 05:18 pm: |
|
I have a HVLP siphon feed paint gun with a air requirement of 8.6 CFM at 40 PSI. My craftsman compressor just makes it at 8.6 CFM at 40 PSI. I will soon post pics of my paint project for my race bike. My paint gun is a craftsman which I paid $99.00 for a few years ago. |
Nik
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 06:31 pm: |
|
HVLP refers to the gun, not the compressor. My 30gal craftsman is just enough for bikes or spot jobs. For cheap paint guns I've had good results with Astro and DevilBliss. I also have a cheap harbor fright hvlp gun that's just fine for primer, or anything you plan on wetsanding. |
Thumper74
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 06:44 pm: |
|
I've got a a siphon feed conventional gun I use for primer and a Harbor Freight HVLP (blatant Bevilbliss copy) I use to color/clear. My 30 gal Craftsman compressor will run both. I'm convinced that it's all in the prep, my first paint job ended up perfect with the cheapest guns I could get. |
Danny_h__jesternut
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 08:34 pm: |
|
I once panted an ole tuber,frame, plastics, bits and peices, with a el-cheepo hobbiest air brush, and a little bitty elect compresser. Not much more than a glorified spray can. Came out suprizingly well. Ha,ha the paint cost trice what that little air bush did, I still got it jest in case, old tubers are getting cheeper by the day. |
Dfishman
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 09:39 pm: |
|
Sharp makes some decent economy guns.Those off brands don't atomize too well.I have used a few of the cheapies & ended up throwing them away.HVLP uses a lot of air & 1/4" lines are a bit restrictive.If you turn up the air to compensate you end up with a lot of overspray.If you plan on spraying more than once spend a little more & clean your gun well & it will last a lifetime.I have some guns that are 20 years old & are still in use. |
Eboos
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 10:03 pm: |
|
Here's a few pictures of my bike with the paint done with the above mentioned equipment.
|
Rainman1ne
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 10:33 pm: |
|
Bottom line is the better the gun the less work it will take you after the paint job. My SATA is far from cheap and is only used for clear coat. That is what makes the job. You can be sloppy on the base coat to an point but clearing is where you can point out the good painters from the DIY guys. For the few people on this board that have seen my bike can tell you my paint is like glass, not one hint of texture. Get a good quality gun if you plan on painting more than once and make sure you get a variety of nossel sizes (1.3 for base and 1.2 for clear, my personal choice). |
Bads1
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 10:45 pm: |
|
If your going to paint and more then once. Having three guns is a benefit. One for Primer,one for Paint,one for clear. |
Eboos
| Posted on Friday, February 27, 2009 - 11:18 pm: |
|
I didn't do any sanding after I finished with the primer, and I didn't do any polishing. This is a race bike, so I will just run it as is. |
Oldbiker
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:17 am: |
|
For the uninformed....... http://www.hvlp.net/index.htm Eboos the consistent orange peel effect is produced by too high an application pressure.....unless of course you were striving for that effect. Steve |
Eboos
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:27 am: |
|
I was striving for the "I don't know what the hell I am doing, I just want to get it done" effect. |
Eboos
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:31 am: |
|
The air pressure was set to 42 PSI on the regulator I mounted to the gun. There is about a 5 PSI drop in pressure when the gun is being used (pull the trigger and the pressure drops and stays constant). This is only my first time using this gun on something that doesn't have any texture. Before I've only used it on interior car parts that have some texture. |
Rainman1ne
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 09:20 am: |
|
lot more to it than pressure. volume, spray pattern, distance from panel, how fast you more the gun, how the paint is mixed (how much reducer is in it). base coat is easy, clear is the hard part (Message edited by rainman1ne on February 28, 2009) |
Oldbiker
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 10:11 am: |
|
Eboos.....thanks for the light hearted response........as Rainman1ne states there's a lot involved......practice is also involved.......first motorcycle painting fiasco involved a flit gun,synthetic lacquer,and loootsa wet sanding. Steve |
Slaughter
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 10:37 am: |
|
Yeah to all the above - DO NOT SHOOT METALLIC until you've practiced a while. You can't shoot metallic in wet coats or the metallic filler can "sag" and you get blotchy looks in the finished paint. I only own Devilbis and Binks (kinda/sorta semi-pro years ago) but have shot the Harbor Freight. Personally, I think that you'd be FINE with the HF guns - just can't buy replacement seals or parts. PREPARATION PREPARATION PREPARATION. Start from a Good surface - sand if orange-peely and re-coat. Clear coat really "purties it up" but unless you're shooting multiple colors and are fuel-and-sun-proofing stickers, clearcoating might not be worth your time - BUT it does add a lot of goodness to looks and durability. IF you go clear - regardless of what you used for color, get a 2-part catalyzed acrylic enamel or polyurethane. Stuff is rugged and fuel-resistant. 1-component clear just doesn't last (but can look just as good for a few months) I used to think cheapie guns weren't worth it but since having helped a couple buddies, I'm thinking that they can be made to work OK. Pic in Antelope Valley Buell showroom: I didn't mess with metallic - just 3 colors and black pinstriping tape - Antelope Valley stickers and then clear-coating over the whole mess. Don't have close-ups but I didn't sand before clear coating since this is a racebike. If you REALLY want to do purdy stuff, you can sand before and then between clear coats and build up a really rich look to it all... personally, it's a pain. Bikes are meant to be ridden. |
Just_ziptab
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 12:35 pm: |
|
I painted an old silo.........no prep,no sanding, no nothing. I used one of these... |
Oldbiker
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 02:24 pm: |
|
Slaughter.......from what I understand hrbr fright spray guns are such close copies of devilbiss and binks counterparts all the internal parts fit.......myself iv'e never had reason to test what I heard.Feel free to prove me wrong. Steve |
Gowindward
| Posted on Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 03:34 pm: |
|
I ordered this book from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Paint-Your-Motorcycle-Motorb ooks-Workshop/dp/0760320780/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF 8&s=books&qid=1235852396&sr=8-1 I bought the cheap gun at the local bargain tool house, kind of a damaged freight/ discontinued item kind of place. I think it will get me started and let me figure out if I want to do more than just an odd part here and there. It's got to be better than rattle can or the Wagner. The www.eastwoodco.com site had some good info and even a link to a Car Craft article. I will have to read up on the HVLP.net site when I find some time. Eboos the bike looks good and we all have to start someplace. Hats off for giving it a go!! |