| Author | Message | ||
     Luisemilio25r |
Ok. I've been hearing a lot in this forum about the steering stabilizer and about not doing the death grip and good body positioning. My questions is: do you think is safe to just put enough pressure on the grips to keep the throttle going traveling at high speeds (55mph and up)? or do you believe that while going at high speeds you need use a stronger grip? also, would you let go of the grips going at 80mph for just a few seconds and feel safe? Thanks! | ||
| Zac4mac |
Loretta is most stable with my hands off the bars. Lighter touch is best is my experience. to your Q - yes, been there. Z | ||
| P_squared |
The grips are your 'inputs' to the bike's steering. In the absence of input, the bike goes where it's pointed (have gone over 80+ mph w/ no hands w/ no drama). Using a stabilizer has 1 of 2 purposes IMO: 1) Need 1 for rules compliance (aka racing) 2) Need 1 to mask other issues (your inputs, tires out of balance, etc., etc.) If you find your front end is wagging consistently, try to ID the cause(s). Is it your inputs, or the bike's inputs causing the wagging? When the front end gets light under heavy acceleration, e.g. coming out of a corner & getting on the gas, my inputs become magnified. The lighter I become on the bars, the less 'wagging' I experience. YMMV and the above is neither an endorsement or condemnation of using a stabilizer. Some folks like them, some folks don't have a use for one on the the street. | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
so in your experience would you say that the bike does not need any input from the rider on the bars while going fast? | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
of course if you wish to go straight! | ||
| P_squared |
If you're going in a straight line, the only input required is throttle. If you're turning, you need steering input. The lighter & smoother you become in the inputs, the better she behaves IMO. | ||
| Plumpton |
The one I test road recently was very stable at 145+ | ||
| White79bu |
It's stable in a straight line at 145 mph. But try leaning it over a little at triple digit speeds. I got used to it a little but it always made me nervous. | ||
| Plumpton |
dont think I could manage that. Definitely felt good to me though. I didnt detect any wobble whereas my XB9 does... didnt get to try out any fast corners though so maybe it shakes a bit there? | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
FWIW, to me that's part of the fun! R | ||
| White79bu |
My 1125 would only wobble in one section of the track. It is in a high speed kink when the throttle is wide open. (Message edited by white79bu on February 18, 2009) | ||
| Dano_12s |
It's better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it! | ||
| Duggram |
At the first WERA race of the year there was a novice rider that died when he got the wobbles at Fontana and hit the guardrail. He didn't have a damper. Sure you can sit back and screw it on to pull yourself out of a tank slapper. But what if it doesn't work? Search youtube and you'll see some amazing tankslappers. There are a few transition bumps at my home track. At first I got pretty good at controlling the head shake without a damper. Still not a secure feeling at 100+. After I got my damper I don't even think about it any more. I'll never ride fast without one again. | ||
| Marcodesade |
So is it worth it to get a damper only for the street? I am not ready for the track (yet), but I notice some situations on the street --- like cornering over a rain gutter or other uneven area --- where the bike squirrels up a little. It's way worse if I have to ease up on the throttle once I've started the turn, but I still notice it some even when I'm steady on the gas. Would a damper help? Also, what is the advantage of the rotary models (most of the ones I see are >$400) over the strut type (which I have seen for <$100). | ||
| Duggram |
I use a GPR which sits on top of the steering head. It's easy to install and adjust. You'll hear plenty of debate on which one to use, but I sure like mine. | ||
| Bigschwerm |
Duggram you have a part number to the GPR? | ||
| Duggram |
Big, I don't have it any more. You know who set me up was the Godfather of Buell racing here, Steve Slaughter. Maybe he'll check in and help. It's the same one that Antelope Valley uses on their 1125's. I actually called Antelope Harley and they gave me the part number. If I can find it I'll definitely share. Checkout this thread. (Message edited by duggram on February 18, 2009) | ||
| Cutty72 |
http://gprstabilizer.com/shopping_sportbikes_buell _xb-firebolt_All | ||
| Duggram |
Thanks Cutty | ||
| P_squared |
Or you could pay the same $$$ for it from a sponsor. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9250.html | ||
| Cutty72 |
Yeah, i was just showing the model. Forgot Al carried them. (Message edited by Cutty72 on February 18, 2009) | ||
| Duggram |
Phil, good point! | ||
| P_squared |
For those who haven't had the pleasure of doing business with American Sport Bike, trust me, it IS a pleasure. American Sport Bike also carries other options for damping which may or may not be applicable to our bikes, but rest assured that Al has a wealth of knowledge to share on the subject of Buell's and accessories.  Besides, he helps to pay the rent for this place so we can all BS each other about which color is faster. (Already proven that BLACK & Blue is the FASTEST btw) | ||
| Duggram |
Wrong Phil!! Primer gray is faster! Check the other post. | ||
| P_squared |
Nope, Ken already proved the black & blue is fastest @ Infineon. Although I'm thinking your primer gray is probably faster than most.  | ||
| Duggram |
When I leave Juneau in 86 days I will have one of the baddest 1125 sportsman racers. Factory race pipe with map tuned by RSRacecraft, chaindrive swing arm, Traxxion AK-20 front suspension, K&N filter, and maybe the factory mag wheels. Maybe new race glass from Catalyst too. And, I plan to have it painted like the Tech3 yamahas, blue, yellow and black. If you have any suggestions I'd like to hear them. | ||
| Marcodesade |
So is it worth it to have a damper only for street use? And what makes the rotary style better than the strut style (the rotary ones cost $400 and up, whereas I see the strut style for under $100 sometimes). | ||
| Duggram |
Mark, that's a tough question that only you can answer. How agressive of a rider are you? I don't know if a rotary is better than a tube. The type that sits up where you can adjust it is handy. When I traveled to Vegas the track was smoother and I could adjust it on the go. The tubes are mounted where you can't get to them easy. Maybe the tubes okay for you (hey they're Ohlins!). | ||
| Marcodesade |
Well, what I hinted at in my first post, but didn't quite say, is that I *want* to be a more confident, aggressive rider as I get better --- and would like to get to a place where I could consider a track day. But (aside from dirtbikes I rode 30 years ago) I've been riding only the last 6 months. I have 3 months and 4K miles on this bike. I want to advance my skills steadily, rather than finding out the hard way what my limits were. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Marco - have a chat with Takis, aka Pariah. His first bike was an 1125R and nobody here would give him a high chance of survival, myself included. He's done fine, and could well be a better rider than I am now... Respect the Force Z |
