| Author | Message | ||
     Steveoc |
I know this prolly been covered somewhere a million times. My buddies CR loses power only in 3rd. He brought it the his local dealer and they even seen it for themselves. So they called buell directly and buell told the local dealer that was NORMAL. Its kinda hard to believe thats normal. Your thoughts or knowledge would be nice. Thanks | ||
| P_squared |
More specifics? Where in the rpm range? What are the symptoms? Has the bike been de-noided? | ||
| Cataract2 |
Probably the solenoid kicking in. You can remove that, run a search as there are tons of threads about it. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
For a stock bike it is, in fact, normal. Doesn;t make it O.K., but it is normal! Have your buddy do the solenoidectomy, and the problemo, she goes away.... R | ||
| Timi |
Can you simply remove the cable?, as it simply "pops" off the throttle body lincage. Or is a more complete surgry necessary?. Just curious, cause I haven't been too concerned, till now. Tks Timi. | ||
| P_squared |
From last thread about conducting a de-noid: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/433699.html You have 3 basic options: 1) Remove the cable, but leave the noid plugged in. 2) Leave the cable, but unplug the noid (need the $6 resistor) 3) Remove the noid entirely (need the $6 resistor). All 3 of the above will stop the 'failure to accelerate' condition when you meet the criteria to activate the noid. Steps for option #1: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Safetywire/zip tie cable out of way of other moving parts. Steps for Option #2: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Unplug noid at connector and plug in resistor. Steps for Option #3: 1. Remove seat (2 torx screws) 2. Remove outer airbox cover (4 torx screws) 3. Remove inner airbox cover (plastic clips) 4. Remove air filter 5. Remove air filter holder 6. Pull cable out of butterfly attach point. 7. Unplug noid at wire harness connector. 8. Insert resistor into plug in wire harness. 9. Remove noid. For options #1 & 3, it’s highly recommended to tie the linkage. Whichever option you choose, the reason for doing this mod is to prevent the noid from activating in 3rd gear ~4.5k rpm, which causes a temporary ‘failure to accelerate’ condition. | ||
| Marcodesade |
Respectful request for explanation so the retarded kid can play too: First, I read the thread referenced above, and there was talk of "tying the linkage" after removing the cable. Can someone tell me more about this? What am I looking for as far as the linkage? Next, what kind of "$6 resistor" are we talking about? Is there a part number? Also, is this a good time to leave the airbox off? I was actually going to do that first, and then decide whether to denoid, but in for a penny . . . And finally, is one of the three methods preferred over the other two? And why? As an avowed know-nothing, my guess would be remove it all, but I'd rather hear from someone who actually knows> | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Wonder if we can make "3rd gear power loss" sticky thread with reference to the better threads regarding the issue? Seems like the issue is raised almost every few days. | ||
| P_squared |
The 2 throttle bodies have 'independent' action if you look closely. Using various means (safetywire, zip ties, etc.), it is recommended to 'lock' the 2 together, so they don't move independently of each other. This is of course after performing the 'de-noid' surgery. The $6 resistor is a deutsch (sp?) plug (Buell part # Y0248.1AM) I won't answer on the airbox, as it is my opinion that it is better to leave it on for now, on my bike. Any one of the 3 methods work. The goal is to prevent the noid from kicking in at ~4.5k rpm in 3rd gear. All 3 methods accomplish that goal. | ||
| Ron_luning |
I removed the solenoid yesterday from my bike. I threw away the bag that the resistor came in so I can't tell you the part number. It is a Buell part, and if you search for "solenoid" I'm sure it's located somewhere in this forum. I personally see no reason to do anything other than a complete removal of the solenoid/cable from the bike if you're going to do anything at all. All of the options presented above have the same effect, where the complete removal saves you maybe 2 pounds in the weight of the bike. As far as the linkage to tie together, you'll see it much easier as you do your own solenoid removal. I did it using an electrical zip tie rated to 185F. If it melts, it melts. I tried to use lockwire, but couldn't really get it tight enough. I don't see that there really is a need to tie the linkage together (did it out of fear that someone else had real evidence that I was unaware of). If you look at how it works, there wasn't anything holding the linkages together except for the spring tension on the secondary (solenoid-controlled) throttle control prior to when you removed the solenoid. The solenoid cable could only provide movement in a direction to separate the linkages, it could not have done anything to hold them together. So why would there be surging due to vibration after the solenoid removal, when there wasn't any before? There wouldn't be as far as I can figure. | ||
| Ron_luning |
Check out this photo I took. The yellow circle is the area in question where the linkages touch.  | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Great pic re tying the throttles together. When I did my de-solenoid, pics were somewhat elusive. Be sure to do it right too. I originally put a steel zip tie on, but I couldn't get it tight enough. It fell off. Now i just went with nylon zip tie. Got it plenty tight and reports are they can put up with the heat of the motor. | ||
| Krassh |
Y0248.1AM | ||
| Ccryder |
Ron: Great pict! You may want to point out which is the real throttle cable and which is the offending cable that gets removed or disconnected. I've slept a few times since removing mine and I can't recall which is which. Thx Neil S. | ||
| Dalton_gang |
It`s kinda funny reading this thread. Some of us can laugh since we went through the same thing this time last year. (It sucked at the time though) There sure is a lot more info and support now for the 1125 newbie compared to us (ha ha) "old" 1125 owners. This place still ROCKS! | ||
| Marcodesade |
Dalton, you put your finger on the whole reason I'm here: to draw from the experience of those who came before. I want to know all the best tricks for getting the most out of this monster, and I want even more than that to avoid turning it into a $10000 statue in my garage. BTW, thanks for all the great info, advice, and pix. If all goes as planned, I will shoot a brief how-to video for future n00bs. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
There sure is a lot more info and support now for the 1125 newbie compared to us (ha ha) "old" 1125 owners. +1 We were on the "bleeding edge" for sure!!! But you know, i wouldn't change it. I feel like the badweb had a part in moving the development of the bike along. As frustrating as it was at times, I look back fondly. (Message edited by fresnobuell on February 16, 2009) | ||
| Steveoc |
Thanks for the info guys. I can always count on the OG's of badweb. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
OG's of badweb. That's too funny. | ||
| Firstbuell |
1125R owners at the 'bleeding edge' ? I don't think so !! ask any X-1 or M2 or S3 owner about "the troubles" - the KV knowledge vault was full to the brim before the XBs were even a rumor you water boys are much better off, no joke I'm just sayin'....... | ||
| Dalton_gang |
"you water boys are much better off"  | ||
| P_squared |
The trick was learnin ON the tubers, then the wife's XB, so that when the 1125R came around, it was a walk in the park!  | ||
| Zac4mac |
My first Buell was an XB9R... a "pushbutton" bike. It ran and I rode it, not worked on it. I put 20k miles on it and can't tell you where the spark-plugs are. When I got Loretta a year ago, NOBODY knew anything about the 1125. We, here on BWB, taught each other what was normal and how to fix what wasn't. I love this place. BTW, instead of tying off the cable from the 'noid, I unscrewed it from the 'noid and stuck it in the "extra" parts bin under my bench. I don't hit the right conditions often, but yesterday a light turned yellow, I hit the gas and the CEL came on. I cycled the ignition while I waited for a green light and found the DTC "ACT INT SYS ERR" in Diag Mode when I got home... Z |
