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Ratbuell
| | Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 11:14 am: | 
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I never had any complaints about how my S1W ran with the SS2R slip-on, but WOW. I installed a complete Buell race exhaust that I got from a Badwebber a couple months ago, and hadn't had a chance to ride it yet. It's 62 degrees here today, so I rode it to work.
WOW.
I'd forgotten how much smoother the powerband was with the race header and race muffler (the bike now has the complete kit on it, I already had the air cleaner and ignition box). That thing pulls like a freakin' freight train now!
Anyhoo, just thought I'd share. Back to work now - waah. Gorgeous weather in February, and I'm stuck at work for five loooong hours. <shrug> |
Blecha
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 12:18 am: |
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you wouldnt want to get rid of that ss2r muffler would ya or know anybody that would |
Billetmetallic
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 12:28 am: |
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Blecha, ive got one but its a 2" collector size, is the S1W a 2 1/2" collector? let me know if the 2" will work for ya |
Blecha
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 12:34 am: |
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I think the 2in would be to small for my s1 thanks tho |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 07:30 am: |
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Standard S1 is a 2" collector.
S1W has a 2.5" collector.
I'm keeping the SS2R, despite my feelings about it, until I find a stock muffler. I want to have a complete, spare exhaust system should the need arise for some reason. |
Orman1649
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 10:42 am: |
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Make sure you have that front hanger. I just had to fix my cracked header b/c there was no mount at all. The guy who had the bike before me didn't take care of the exhaust at all. Make sure you watch the rivets in the can too. Replace loose ones right away. The rivet holes in my can for the rear cap were so far gone it was close to just blowing off. Got it all welded up but need to grind it down and re-drill the holes. |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 11:23 am: |
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Oh yeah, the bike is near perfect. I bought it a couple years ago with 1100 miles on it. Now it's just a hair over 5k (my fair-weather ride - it's bike #3 so I get to keep it as nice as possible). Hangar's in place, bolts/flanges torqued properly and in the right "anti-crack" order. I've had race cans before (on my old '99 M2 and currently on my S2) so watching the rivets is second nature.
I was simply amazed at the difference in driveability just by scrapping that V&H can. |
Kalali
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 11:37 am: |
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"..I was simply amazed at the difference in driveability just by scrapping that V&H can."
Now you got all my attention...
Could you please elaborate a little on the differences between the the V&H and the race set up?
I have the SS2R on my X1 and don't seem to have any driveability issues nice throaty sound, the throttle response feels linear from idle to redline, no stumbling, no flat spots, etc.
What am I missing??
Thanks.
P.S. I did have to play around with the ECMSPY to get the maps tweaked. |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 01:05 pm: |
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With the SS2R, the bike fell off abruptly around 5500. Idle was always choppy, and small throttle opening cruising was always a little hiccupy, regardless of jetting and idle screw settings (and I tried a LOT of those!).
Race setup is silky smooth at all throttle openings, and at all revs. It flat-out SLAMS into the rev limit on the race ignition (I want to say 6800?) with no dying off at all. Low rev / high throttle chug is gone. 5th to 4th downshift for highway passing at 60 is gone, it does just fine in 5th now. Midrange is HUGE compared to the V&H - no flat spots, no nothing. Twist the grip at as low as 2200 and you get a steady, linear pull all the way to the cutoff point.
It also lights off *immediately* when you hit the start button now, instead of a couple of chuffs and sneezes first.
This is all on a stock 98 S1W, with Buell race air filter and Buell race ignition box. Stock carburetor with Thunderslide kit and jetting adjusted for the changes. |
Kalali
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 04:04 pm: |
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OK thanks.
Sorry I missed the fact that your bike is carburated vs. my injected X1.
In my case, I had to get the Race fuel and ignition maps before I could get the bike to behave the way you described.
I am also wondering now how much of the changes you experienced had to do with the switch from the V&H to race exhaust vs. the addition of the race headers and more importantly, the race ignition. Usually, just switching the exhaust(s) does not yield such dramatic improvements. May be it is different in a carburated bike. In my case, the combination of the V&H, high flow air filter all accompanied by the ECM changes, got rid-off the infamous 3000-3500RPM torque drop and made the throttle response more crisp and more linear through the range. |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 04:24 pm: |
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Sorry, I was unclear. I already had the jetting, air cleaner, and ignition box on the bike. All I changed was the header and muffler. |
Kalali
| | Posted on Monday, February 09, 2009 - 04:54 pm: |
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It is great to know that a header/exhaust package could make such a difference.
I am now going to keep my eyes open in the classified section for the headers to come up for sale! |
Hippyjoe
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 12:19 am: |
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Race setup is silky smooth at all throttle openings, and at all revs. It flat-out SLAMS into the rev limit on the race ignition (I want to say 6800?) with no dying off at all. Low rev / high throttle chug is gone. 5th to 4th downshift for highway passing at 60 is gone, it does just fine in 5th now. Midrange is HUGE compared to the V&H - no flat spots, no nothing. Twist the grip at as low as 2200 and you get a steady, linear pull all the way to the cutoff point.
It also lights off *immediately* when you hit the start button now, instead of a couple of chuffs and sneezes first.
This is all on a stock 98 S1W, with Buell race air filter and Buell race ignition box. Stock carburetor with Thunderslide kit and jetting adjusted for the changes.
I get all that with my V&H... my M2 motor is the same as your S1W...
with the exception of my Hi-4 ignition. Also I have the stainless M2 pipe, maybe that helps too. Plus my leg never gets hot, lol. And I keep the can packing in good shape for the torque.
...and I never have to downshift at 60 mph, lol, at that speed I just screw it on and she boogies. In fact I think it's no good for the trans to kick it down at that speed, just my .01.
Also my .01, the race exhaust looks best on the bike it was made for, S1W. My M2 is a mutt and proud of it, lol.
(Message edited by hippyjoe on February 10, 2009) |
Dave_02_1200
| | Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 02:39 pm: |
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My 2001 S3T came with a full Buell Race Kit (ECM, Carbon Fiber Ham Can intake, Race Exhaust) already installed. Runs great.
Hoping to replicate the way my S3T runs, I put a Buell Race Header and Muffler on my 2002 M2 with a Mikuni 40mm and a forecwinder intake.
Similar results. It really woke it up.
I think that Buell must have put some serious development effort into the race exhaust to get those results. |
Kalali
| | Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 04:37 pm: |
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I think the improvement you guys are seeing is mostly due to the race headers. I have read about switch from/to whole bunch of different exhausts (including Buell Race) and the difference among them was mainly sound and may be a little gain in low end torque but nothing like what you guys are reporting.
Where is a good place to shop for those race headers? |
Jmkybf
| | Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 04:55 pm: |
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eBay had one that just ended last night, but that really won't help you now. It went for $203.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buell-Race-Header-S 1-M2-exhaust_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35557QQihZ 018QQitemZ280310874352QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Does anyone know what exactly is different in the race headers? Do they have bigger primary tubes, longer runners? |
Gowindward
| | Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 05:11 pm: |
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I have a complete race kit I took off my '02 S3T at 3600 miles on the bike. I didn't care for the noise. It sure did give the bike more zoom! I was going to try to get it listed on ebay this weekend.
Offers?? |
Gowindward
| | Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 05:25 pm: |
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The collector on the header is much lower on the bike. See photo
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Sloppy
| | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 12:43 am: |
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Night and day difference with the header -- absolutely ZERO hole in the torque curve. Flat torque curve = linear horsepower curve = great acceleration out of curves = 
I tried all different sorts of combinations, but it's the header that made the difference.
With regard to hanger / clamp, look up McMaster Carr for their CONSTANT force clamp. It's a stainless clamp that has a spring built into the tightening screw. My old clamps would last about 6 months, I'm now going on 2 years. With regards to hanger, you need to torque the exhaust from the bottom up. Snug up the muffler, then the hanger, then exhaust bolts. Keeps your clamp from breaking as well! |
Buellsrule
| | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 01:20 am: |
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PM sent. Frank. |
Hitttman2003
| | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 09:53 am: |
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hello, my name is william and i just bought a 99 buell lightning x1. i love it but i have to get some work done to it ,(muffler, and its back firing ,spitting & spattering w/the check engine light on while there is no muffler on it.) any advise any one can give me as well as a recommendation as to where i can get cheep parts and to get it worked on at, greenville,sc. 864-787-7690 or chicagodawgs@bellsouth.net |
Kalali
| | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 04:24 pm: |
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Loren, will the header work for the X1?
And Sloppy, will I need to buy new clamps/brackets for the Race headers?
Thanks. |
Kalali
| | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 04:25 pm: |
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Oh, one other thing...Will the header work with a V&H SS2R? |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 05:52 pm: |
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Race header is 2.5" outlet, pointed at the back of the bike. "Elbow" is part of the header.
Stock X1 header is 2.5" outlet, pointed across the bike in front of the engine. "Elbow" is on the muffler.
IIRC there is an SS2R available for use with the race header, but it's different than the "regular" muffler. |
Sloppy
| | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 08:11 pm: |
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The header requires a clamp directly under the Volt Reg - it's a stainless design. Try American Sport Bike if you don't have it.
The only other muffler that I know that works besides the OEM race muffler is the Supercrapp and D&D. You need a "straight through" muffler rather than one with an elbow in it. If you're creative you can get a glass pak (like Cherry Bomb) to fit it. |
Gowindward
| | Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 08:10 pm: |
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Here's one on ebay!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ewItem&item=190287149127 |
Jayvee
| | Posted on Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 10:08 pm: |
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Hey, that's yours!
Nice, too, by the way... |
Gowindward
| | Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 11:44 am: |
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Yes, that's mine.  The first step to recovery is selling off horded parts that are not bolted to the bike.
Wilson you listening??  |
Blazin_buell
| | Posted on Monday, February 16, 2009 - 08:47 pm: |
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Ratbuell, I agree with you on what a difference an exhaust can make. When I put a Force on mine almost a year ago I couldn't believe what I'd been missing all those years with several other exhaust. On the hwy she wants to be cruising 85-90 where it seemed to be wheezy before. She now just flat out rips!! Oh and the sound ain't hard to love either. |
Billetmetallic
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 10:36 am: |
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i just dont see why the header would cause such a performance upgrade, unless you were going from a 2" header to a 2 1/2" header. I would think the can would have the most impact. Can anyone explain? |
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