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Buellinachinashop
| | Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 02:46 pm: | 
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My x gf said it best......."Heibler, use lots of lube." |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 02:57 pm: |
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No she said "Don't touch me again you creepy bastard!"  |
Buellinachinashop
| | Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 03:01 pm: |
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You're a bastard. |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 03:07 pm: |
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Court
| | Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 03:24 pm: |
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>>>>I have used everything from Walmart generic dead dino 10/40 to Amsoil over the years and never noticed much of a difference.
I, absent one shred of factual data, would be in that camp.
Fact is . . . there are no longer any "bad" oils and I've seen the cheapest (to the degree that price and quality may be related) oil runs in an engine, drained and the engine run WFO for 8 hours lubricated only by the residual.
There was a time when I was a little whipper snapper that we lived in fear of "mixing oils", pouring a quart of Quaker into a crankcase full of Penzoil, and the impending lockup. Now that I am a big whipper snapper, I do run Mobil 1 and change it way to often but I'm smart enough to know that the trajectory of both manufacturing tolerances of motors and chemisty of lubricants has pretty much relagated this conversation to party talk. |
Aesquire
| | Posted on Friday, February 06, 2009 - 08:26 pm: |
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Last century when I had a 2 stroke bike, GT380, oil choice was a real concern. I could not afford to run the Amsoil Synthetic 2 stroke stuff, but I did try it. Worked great, but I was using "too much" since the GT had oil injection. Sears seemed like used motor oil, & caused seizures, Castrol worked great.
2 stroke aircraft engines are run at constant high revs, and the right oil makes a difference between flight & unplanned landing. 4 stroke aircraft engines spec good oil and for the same reason as on my bike, ash formation & coking, high temp lube ability, etc.
Run K-mart brand oil in your Buell, change it often, and I bet the only difference you see is a bit more heat ( and long term wear ) and baked on oil in the heads.
Any synthetic, ( real by one standard or another ) should ( in my experience ) run cooler & cleaner. I'm sure some are really superior, but since they all say they are, I don't know.
It's a fact of human nature that if an engine fails for any reason, you get a bad attitude about unrelated things. When the rod comes through the crankcase, was it crappy Pensoil? or the fact that you revved it a to 14k while burning a question mark on the street with what's left of your track day tire?
That said, it actually does make a diffrence to clutch & ( rumor has it ) alternators.
(Message edited by aesquire on February 06, 2009) |
Bombardier
| | Posted on Saturday, February 07, 2009 - 03:03 am: |
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The biggest oil related failure you will see is in not making sure there is sufficient volume in the engine and that it is changed frequently.
A fellow biker of the HD variety asked me what oil I put in my bike.
When I asked him why he stated that his oil light had been coming on periodically and as he was not sure what to put in it he did not put any in!!!!!
There's your sign! |
Rich
| | Posted on Saturday, February 07, 2009 - 09:02 am: |
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I generally run what's on sale. |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Saturday, February 07, 2009 - 09:11 am: |
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The other oil related failure invokes an instant self inflicted sign placement.
Filling the bike with oil (or primary fluid) before replacing the drain plug.
DAMHIK.  |
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