| Author | Message | ||
     Andrejs2112 |
I'm getting ready to fill the forks with fluid for the first time. The manual doesn't specify whether the fork assy is fully extended or compressed when adding fluid. What is the correct way. Does is matter? | ||
| Bosh |
Shoot... I just did this a few months ago and I can't remember for sure but I think the forks need to be extended. Re-check the manual, It's in there. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
Anyone have pics of the process? | ||
| Bosh |
One thing I did that works good when setting your fork oil level is (if you don't have a real level tool) to use a pump from a lotion bottle or similar. Mark the straw end with the correct level and put it at the top of the fork tube. Pump the excess oil out into a jar until the level is even with the bottom of the straw. Beats the turkey baster method. | ||
| Bosh |
"Anyone have pics of the process?" How about some vids: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=&search _query=fork+oil+change&aq=f | ||
| Rotorhead |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/249047.html GREaT PICTURE POST HERE. the second fork in the post is for the xb fork. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
Thanks. That helps. Still don't know if the forks are to be extended or compressed. I'll read the manual again. | ||
| Rotorhead |
from the manual. 13. pour 9 oz in 14. pump the damper rod. 15. place damper rod in the fully bottomed position and compress fork completely. 16. pour 9 more oz in. I just did this job 2 weeks ago and still had to get the book open to remember. so it is fill with 9 oz pump the damper rod(btw you can't reach it unless the fork is bottomed out) Bottom the fork and filler up to level it off. Next time I do this job I will get the compression tool to make this go smoother. 1st leg took me 2 hours as it was my first time doing it (replaced all seals and sliders). The second leg took 30 min. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I used a heavy strip of paper, folded 90 degrees to dip into the fork. The fork oil stained it nicely and made it real easy to read and measure. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
Thanks. So I start with it extended, pour fluid, compress the fork to get to damper rod, pump my rod  , compress the fork and then pour more fluid. Sorry, but I sometimes make things more complicated than they have to be. | ||
| Tootal |
Next time I do this job I will get the compression tool to make this go smoother. Put the forks back in the trees and put the axle back in. Compress both forks by raising the axle then tie the axle to the lower tree with rope or strap etc. Now you can do both forks without any special equipment.  | ||
| Arcticktm |
If you start with your forks extended, make sure to compress them SLOWLY to get them compressed for the proper oil height check. Otherwise, you may end up wearing some of that fresh fork oil! Doesn't taste too badly, though... | ||
| Dentguy |
For oil level, I use one of these that I have http://www.compacc.com/prod.cfm/cid/9002000/pid/54 4 Attach it to one of these that I made http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/for k_oil_level_gauge/ minus the syringe. Fill with oil, pump out all the air, measure the rod to the correct oil level, put it down the fork tube and pump out the excess. It stops removing fluid at the correct level. For the motion pro part, I just used a very small diameter copper pipe and a piece of hard plastic with a hole in the middle for the pipe (you could use a block of wood). Drill so the pipe fits tight and adjust it to proper level. Been doing it with that for the last 10 years and it works perfect every time. (Message edited by dentguy on February 02, 2009) | ||
| Xbimmer |
A word of caution when bottoming the forks, from personal experience. When I first did my fork service I had been running the stock sintered brake pads. I'm not saying they caused the problem, but on the right fork, down at the very bottom of the tube, there were a few pits and burrs raised by corrosion buried in the gunk down there. I cleaned up everything and finished up the service with new seals, 4k later I blew the right side again. Took the right side apart again and turned out the burrs had torn the new seal when I bottomed the fork for oil level measurement. Buffed them smooth with my wife's nail buffers and no problems since. I also run Fork Skins and the tubes stay clean. With the Lyndalls I don't get the little flecks of metal all over the wheel anymore either. Might want to make sure the tubes are clean and damage free while you're at it. |
