Author |
Message |
Zoedogg1
| Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 12:53 pm: |
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So I was changing my plugs last night and when I gapping the new Iridium plugs when I accidently broke off the very tip of the electrode (or what ever it is). I then went ahead and gapped it to the correct gap anyhow and installed it. This ever happen to you? I started my bike and and it seems to run just fine, but will this become a problem? It does'nt seem that it would since it is gapped correct and gets the spark it needs to run. |
Diablobrian
| Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 01:29 pm: |
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That was the iridium part of the plug that broke off. The plug may or may not foul more easily, I hope for your sake that it was the front plug since that is far easier to replace if it does fail or foul. If it was me I would change that plug out ASAP. |
Dongalonga
| Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 04:15 pm: |
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get that plug out of there immediately |
Indybuell
| Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 04:19 pm: |
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Get it out! Replace. |
Redfive
| Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 05:13 pm: |
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I have a set of the Iridium plugs ready to go for my next tune up. The electrode is so small that I'm afraid to even touch it. Is there a trick to gapping them, if they do need gapped. I know my standard gapper will most likely break or bend it. Redfive |
Moosestang
| Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 05:34 pm: |
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I have a set of the Iridium plugs ready to go for my next tune up. The electrode is so small that I'm afraid to even touch it. Is there a trick to gapping them, if they do need gapped. I know my standard gapper will most likely break or bend it. Redfive I have a little round gapping tool(the cheap ones they sell at the checkout counter) and it has a round hole in it specifically for opening the gap without touching the electrode. With that said I still broke the very tip off one of mine because I wasn't paying attention. It's been running fine since. Why would only the very tip be made out of iridium? The whole electrode is iridium as far as I know. I don't think you have anything to worry about. |
Skinstains
| Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 11:58 pm: |
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You gap the plug by bending the arm from where it comes off of the plugs threaded body. You should not have any contact with the electrode until you are very gingerly measuring the gap. As far as I know the tip you broke off is the important part. I would replace it. |
Zoedogg1
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 11:35 am: |
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I have a new plug coming, but it doesnt seem it would be a big problem. I would think the whole electrode would be iridium also, and as long as it is gapped correct. Oh well...one is on the way. These stupid things are spendy! It took nothing to break the tip off. |
Moosestang
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 01:12 pm: |
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I emailed ngk asking about the electrode and if there would be any reduced performance. Where are you guys getting your information about the tip being made of iridium? I used an emery board to file mine flat. They claim iridium is a very dense material, but i guess that does not make it strong. I'm amazed it can handle the pressures in the combustion chamber. |
Zoedogg1
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 02:58 pm: |
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Serious? You filed it down? Heck, if thats the case and it works fine for you, then I've got nothing to worry about. As far as the tip being iridium, I dont really know if it is or not. It could be tin foil and if they sold it as iridium I wouldnt know the diff. But really, after I put it in anyhow, I noticed my bike ran better at idle than I ever remember, and it was a cold start in 30 degree temp. It never sputtered, hick up'd or missed for that matter. So thats what made me figure "HEY, nothing wrong here" I'll leave it for now. |
Moosestang
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 06:00 pm: |
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I didn't file much and I used an emery board, which doesn't do much. Here's ngk's response, very quick response i might add. Only the piece that is now broken off is iridium. The rest of the electrode is actually a regular nickel-alloy. The plug should still function properly as long as it has been re-gapped but keep in mind that the service life of the plug is now reduced because the precious metal portion is missing. I would suggest replacing it at the same interval you would a standard nickel plug, which on a motorcycle is typically around 5-8k miles. Hope this helps, thank you. So only the tip is iridium like was allready said. I guess iridium is to expensive to make the entire electrode out of. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 06:47 pm: |
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I ordered 2 at Advanced Auto Parts today. 6.99 ea. They said the plugs would be in at noon tomorrow. |
Moosestang
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 07:38 pm: |
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I ordered 2 at Advanced Auto Parts today. 6.99 ea. They said the plugs would be in at noon tomorrow. What part number did they order? I had them order me some and they came without top caps. I ended up buying two top caps on the net for .5 cents each and two more plugs. The correct part number will have a C in it. NGK-DCPR9EIX If there's no C, then there's no top cap. |
Zoedogg1
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 07:42 pm: |
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Man...I just ordered mine from American Sport Bike today and I think I paid 9.99 ea. Hmmm. I'll have to start searching around town for these... just being lazy I guess with all the millions of dollars I have laying around. |
Moosestang
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 08:40 pm: |
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check sparkplugs.com. They usually have them for under $8 and you can find a coupon code on the internet for 15% off. Their shipping will kill you though. Sometimes they have free shipping too. The ones without the caps are cheaper and no one in my area could order the dcpr9's for me. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 08:58 pm: |
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Yep I ordered the DCPR9EIX. He said they come with the nut. I had been looking at Sparkplugs.com. If you send them a S.A.S.E. they will send you decals for free. My philosophy goes a little like this, There is a bike shop in my neighborhood. I go see what he can do for me prior to others, same with the auto parts store. A lot of times they do for me better than the web. Cycle shop has beat Ebay on stuff. I thought the C in it had to do with it taking a 5/8'(16mm=0.6299") socket. I think the one without the C takes a 3/4"(18mm=0.7086"). EDIT: NGK book sais DC is 16mm hex and the D alone is 18mm hex. (Message edited by ourdee on January 15, 2009) |
Moosestang
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 09:04 pm: |
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I think it's metric, 18mm fit like a glove if memory serves. I checked with napa, advanced discount auto and neither could order the dcpr9's. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Thursday, January 15, 2009 - 09:14 pm: |
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This link takes you to it--> http://ngk.com/sparkplug411.asp <-- then click on Manufacturer's Numbering System NGK (at the lower left) |