| Author | Message | ||
     Glenn |
Hi, I'm thinking about wiring a garage door opener by operating the "push to flash" switch for the high beam. I'm wondering if anyone knows if this wire is accessible inside the cowl. The wiring diagram in my shop manual doesn't seem to show it. The white wire is for the high beam. Thanks, | ||
| Froggy |
If I remember right, its inside the left hand switches cluster and it is just a spring loaded version of switching the high beam on. | ||
| Glenn |
Froggy, I thought that might be the case since I remembered when I switched the wires in the white plug under the cowl that there were only four wires (ground, low, high and Euro parking) Thanks! | ||
| Larryjohn |
How are you planning to do this? I ask because I researched this a bit this past summer and ended up using the autoswitch garage door opener. The autoswitch ties into your high beam circuit and activates your garage door opener with two quick flashes of the high beams. Works great. I have some info and pics if you are interested. | ||
| Glenn |
Hi Larry, I am going to buy a Radio Shack key fob remote as seen here: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?produc tId=2062508&tab=techSpecs I plan to solder a wire to permanently close the push button switch contacts. The unit is 12 volt so I'm going to wire the positive into the white high beam wire near the white wire connector in the cowl and the ground to one of the ground points also in the cowl. When either the high beams are on or the "push to flash" is pushed, 12 volts will be input to the remote. I've read that the remote units put out only one pulse when you apply 12 volts to them so a constant voltage to them is not an issue. I'm going to check this tonight with my existing remote. This should be a very inexpensive way to do this. I am interested in your setup since I haven't bought anything yet. Thanks | ||
| Glenn |
I just sent the wrong Radio Shack link. The one I did send is another possible option to remotely control the "remote". This is what I should have sent http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?produc tId=2963368&tab=summary | ||
| Rclaytonsharp |
The HD garage door opener is my favorite farkle, by for the most useful accessory I have purchased. One day I'll wire the flash to pass switch to the tripmeter mode button. Then I can switch modes without taking my hands off the grips. | ||
| Larryjohn |
Glenn, I looked into doing the same thing you are doing, but I was concerned about the garage door remote remaining on whenever the hi-beams were on. I am pretty sure my genie remote I use in my car remains on when I hold the button, so I was worried about the remote being on all of the time. I got the autoswitch from the following place: http://www.cyclegadgets.com/Products/product.asp?I tem=ASG I also needed to buy a sacrificial garage remote which I got on ebay for around $20 shipped. The autoswitch has four wires, two need go to the button contacts on your garage remote, one goes to the high beam (white) wire on the bike and the fourth goes to ground on the bike. When you flash your hi beams twice within something like 2 seconds the autoswitch closes the pushbutton contact for a couple of seconds to activate the your garage remote. The autoswitch also has an LED light that tells you when it is activated and when it faults out (if you don't get the second high beam flash quick enough). This is actually kind of nice because you know when it is sending a signal or not. I mounted the LED light in my instrument panel right next to my "Fat Bastard" LED volt meter so it is a really clean install. The one caution I would give is to be careful with the smaller Keyfob style garage remotes as I think they may be a bit more delicate for monkeying around with. When I first got the Autoswitch I used a remote I bought from Lowes which was one of the newer style genie remotes. This remote worked when I first soldered the leads onto the button contacts but at some point during the installation the unit stopped working. I am assuming this was due to not being overly gentle when opening the plastic casing on the remote. I wasn't real rough with it, but I wasn't super gentle either. After fubaring the first remote, I bought the older style Genie remote on ebay which did not seem to have as delicate innards and also had the plus of using a 12v battery. I removed the battery from the remote and hardwired some leads to the bike so I don't ever have to worry about replacing the remote battery. I installed everything back in September and have not had any problems since. | ||
| Glenn |
Thank you very much Larry. I'm going to consider this too. | ||
| Rr_eater |
Glenn I did it like you are thinking, works awesome. I dont use flash to pass, I just flip the high beam on, and burn the car out of the way any way, so the switch worked awesome. and if I change door openers when I move or whatever, new remote is no issue. I put it in a ballon after wiring, and tucked it in the behind the HID ballasts under the cowl, no issue. Funny part is I was showing a buddy of mine on the other side of base housing where I live how it worked one day, and opened his neighbors garage!! The look on the guys face was priceless, we messed with him for like an hour!! LOL Bruce | ||
| Glenn |
Thanks for the encouragement Bruce and the good story! I like the balloon sealing tip. I've never thought of that. I guess this is the way I'll do it. | ||
| Rotorhead |
Ever think of using the horn wires? I took my horn out a while ago and have them dangling. I haven't come up with a use till now. Thanks!!!! The nieghbors might not like the short toot if you keep the horn wired. | ||
| Ourdee |
I like the balloon sealing tip. I've never thought of that. Easier fit to put it into a rubber.} | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I just leave mine on the front inside pocket with the button pointing out. All I have to do is pull in the clutch and hit the button like "beam me up Scotty" Of course, mine is from the early '80s and looks like a brick with a 9V battery inside  | ||
| Maximum |
I have done the same thing as Nate...but I sure would like to have it wired to the bike. I was thinking of a autoswitch tied to my brake light...a double pulse would open the garage. But then again...I have not done enough investigation to see if that would work or not.  | ||
| Ourdee |
I had mine inside the bar pad on the XL500. Would just squeeze the pad to work it. | ||
| Glenn |
I did the mod today and it worked out great. either turning on the "push to flash" or turning on the high beams works the door. The LED will stay on if you have the high beams on but there is only 1 pulse at the beginning. These openers from Radio Shack are only $10 and I put one in my Uly and the other in my Beemer today. For the Beemer ('87 K100RS) the turn signal cancel is what I used. Pics are posted here: http://s98.photobucket.com/albums/l243/glennpm/Rad io%20shack%20garage%20Door%20Opener%20in%20Buell/ |
