| Author |
Message |
    
Froggy
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 02:25 am: | 
|
If you ride your bike but stop in 4th gear, it will simulate how the bike will be in 5th with this mod. I personally noticed a drop in fuel economy by keeping it in 4th, others said theirs went up. I also don't like the additional unnecessary wear on the engine, so I would only consider doing this mod if we had another taller gear.
Open airbox and breather reroute does wonders for the low end too  |
Hangetsu
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 12:15 pm: |
|
Thanks Froggy. That's more or less what I figured. However, since you brought up the open air box topic and it seems you do have some experience with it, I'd like to run question by you.
I see a lot of people going through some pretty extensive measures to create this open airbox; cutting out all but the top portion capping the air filter, re-routing of cables, etc. Wouldn't simply boring a lot of strategically placed large holes in the airbox accomplish the same thing? That thing is made of some pretty stout material and you could remove quite a bit of it without losing the support needed for the servo linkage and what ever else sits on top of it. The re-routing of the breather tubes is a different issue, of course; one that I do plan on dong. |
Froggy
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 01:00 pm: |
|
I ended up just getting the kit from American Sport Bike, it is easy to install. I am the kind of person that spends the money to get something done right the first time rather than cheeping out and ending up spending more buying replacement parts to fix what didn't work. If you still got the stock exhaust, your best bet is to swiss cheese the stock cover. Feel free to start a new thread if you have questions on that. |
Skinstains
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 01:33 pm: |
|
Hey Rotorhead, why did you change your primary drive instead of just changing sprockets on the final drive ? |
Hangetsu
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 01:53 pm: |
|
Thanks again Froggy. The swiss cheese approach is straight forward enough and I do still have the stock exhaust with no plans on replacing it. I have researched that one heavily and the data shows no meaningful performance gains (thought I have seen some losses)through any of the aftermarket pipes out there. None worth the expense anyway. |
Werewulf
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 08:36 pm: |
|
if you change your final drive, your speedo will be off... |
Rotorhead
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 10:52 pm: |
|
Skinstains,
It comes down to not really wanting to lose a full 11% when I installed the 9 primary. The chain drive was for off road durabilty only and since I was changing that I decided to do the math and get a gear that wouldn't get the drop of speed of a full 11% engine rpm from stock when I did the 9 primary. The final drive gearing was tall but a huge top speed resulted (132 before I did the 9 swap). I still got the outstanding low end for the off road and didn't loss all my cruise RPM's for the long trips I tend to do. So far the chain final drive has been great with the regular routine of molly based lube.
BTW Werewolf,
I tested my speedo, ended up being dead on with the GPS all the way to 120MPH with a bounce off the rev limiter. Gota love AZ roads. I went up (or down depends on how you look at it) to get the end result right. It just happend to get the speedo corrected at the same time.
My final drive ratio's
stock 2.407 27 /65 tooth
chain 2.286 21/ 48 tooth
paper numbers and actual numbers do differ.
|
Skinstains
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2009 - 06:39 pm: |
|
Rotorhead, I know what you mean with the chains. I have put them on three XB's already and will be putting one on my Uly soon. |
Tootal
| | Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2009 - 12:58 pm: |
|
Ok, it's 38 degrees outside and I just returned from a test ride. Here is what I observed in chronological order:
1. I was not slipping the clutch still at the end of the driveway.
2. Rpm came up quicker as I ran down the road, feels good.
3. Power wheelies start at lower rpm so you can hold them longer. COOL!
4. Although all the above is true it's not as huge of a difference as I thought it would be which is good on the other end.
5. 4th gear w/XB12 ratio is 4000 rpm at 70 mph. 5th gear w/XB9 ratio is 3800 at 70 mph. 75 mph is 4000 even.
6. Overall not a huge difference except for take off and slow speed rideablility.
7. I like it and am glad I did it. My test ride was only a 20 minute ride. I have no GPS so speeds are off my speedo which seems to be fairly accurate. I'm fighting a head cold and am in a bit of a fog but I couldn't stand it any longer! Looking forward to a warmer day to thoroughly test it out.  |
Tipsymcstagger
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 06:09 pm: |
|
Parts should be here tomorrow. Can anyone confirm the size of two large nuts that need to be removed? I guess one is the main shaft and the other is the rotor sprocket?
I want to make sure I have all the necessary tools on hand.
2008 Uly...if that matters.
Tipsy |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 06:36 pm: |
|
Can anyone confirm the size of two large nuts that need to be removed?
Pretty damn big! |
Tootal
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 06:42 pm: |
|
Tipsy, the crank nut used a 1 1/8" socket and the clutch nut,(left hand thread), was probably 1 3/16" socket however I didn't have one but found a 30mm fit perfect. There is only .005" to .006" difference.
Now mine is a 2006 and I think the crank nut is different on a 2008. Others will have to verify. Have fun, I think you'll like it. |
Tootal
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 10:31 pm: |
|
Hey Fatty,
Is that a reference to the new Cagiva Elephantitis?? |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 10:36 pm: |
|
You'd have to have a set like that to ride a 400lb monster with 146hp and knobby tires off road.
Talk about SERIOUS rooster tail. Dayum!
Rubberdown would be proud! |
Panhead_dan
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 10:49 pm: |
|
I finished a clutch rebuild and XB9 front sprocket swap a couple of hours a go. So far, it is everything I was hoping for. I was only able to do a little riding around the county today and am excited about getting it out on the highway. It's gonna be very hard to keep me off the bike tomorrow. |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2009 - 11:00 pm: |
|
Dan,
Was the clutch job much? I'm going to need to do that soon. |
Panhead_dan
| | Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2009 - 10:52 am: |
|
It was cake. Expensive cake. I ordered all the circlips and seals from Latus but re-used all the old stuff anyway, keeping the new parts as spares. The stuff all looked like new. I got the entire clutch basket, front sprocket, rotor, stator and chain used from a member here who was parting out a 9 with low miles. There was a lot of damage during shipment but those clutch discs were safely encased in the clutch housing and looked like new. The chain and sprocket were not damaged.
I would say that the clutch rebuild can be done in a home garage with no snap ring pliers in 2 to 3 beers easy, not counting having to take it all back apart to install the clutch spring seat (which I forgot). You will need the book and the clutch compressor tool. It's about $40 or you could borrow one like I did. |
