Author |
Message |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2008 - 06:03 am: |
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I read this in the X-1 files; "If you're tired of dropping the muffler to drain the primary, send $25US and the primary to: Banke Performance 1670 McLellan Rd. Felton, CA, 95018 The job looks excellent… actually have look around to see where the plug has been inserted." I just picked up a spare primary cover. Has anyone tried this modification? Any pictures?} |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2008 - 10:24 am: |
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The way "i" improvised a fix for this is to "DENT" the muffler, so make it easy to get the drain plung in and out ... You do not have to dent it all that much either ... |
Kalali
| Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2008 - 10:32 am: |
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Actually I think the OEM muffler for the X1 already has an indentation right below the bolt... At least mine did when I got the bike...or may be the previous owner banged it in...not sure. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2008 - 02:33 pm: |
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The "dent" is stock. Most aftermarket mufflers are going to give you room to drop the bolt too. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2008 - 04:13 pm: |
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Not V&H though. That's the one thing that sucks about those. and it sucks bad! |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2008 - 04:55 pm: |
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You guys sure are messy! I have the dent. But I saw this cover for $25, sooo But, has anyone had the Banke mod? Just wanna see what it looks like. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2008 - 05:13 pm: |
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You have to do the right size "DENT" as the OEM DENT is for technicians with small hands/fingers ... |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2008 - 05:25 pm: |
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You gotta use "Harley" tools on Buells too? I just called Banke, they still do the mod, $35 |
Stevem123
| Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2008 - 08:48 pm: |
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Banke does good work and well worth the money. I did that mod myself and love it. I didn't use Banke though cause I just did it myself. BC Steve |
Jstfrfun
| Posted on Friday, December 19, 2008 - 03:40 pm: |
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How 'bout you post an example of your work there Stevo. I for one would like to see how it's done. I have a supertrapp on my 99X1...no dent. |
Stevem123
| Posted on Friday, December 19, 2008 - 11:36 pm: |
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I'll try to get one up soon. My camers pics are big though. BC Steve |
Preybird1
| Posted on Friday, December 19, 2008 - 11:52 pm: |
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I have the supertrapp as well No dent. I would like to see it also. |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Saturday, December 20, 2008 - 08:01 pm: |
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The cover arrived. I would like to see how this mod is done and even more so, where to place the plug. I will use this cover [it's polished too] and see if I can come up with something better than spilling oil all over the place. I sit and think about bikes a lot. More power, faster, cooler looking, etc., but everytime I ride this plain old ten year old M2, I realize that when it is running right, [it is currently] it's all the bike I need. It does, however, have these little quirks. (Message edited by silas_clone on December 20, 2008) |
Stevem123
| Posted on Sunday, December 21, 2008 - 05:01 am: |
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Damn how in the hell do you post a picture on here that you don't have to resize so small you can't see crap! Oing me offline and I'll email you an image you can actually see. BC Steve
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Stevem123
| Posted on Sunday, December 21, 2008 - 05:09 am: |
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Here's a cropped version maybe it will be easier to see. still had to reduce it's size terribly small to upload it though..... BC Steve
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Silas_clone
| Posted on Sunday, December 21, 2008 - 05:37 am: |
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That's perfect. Did you have to add weld? What sort of plug and thread size? |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, December 21, 2008 - 10:11 am: |
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Looks like an oil tank bolt from an S2 |
Silas_clone
| Posted on Sunday, December 21, 2008 - 11:42 am: |
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I have used these toggle plugs in stripped out crankcase timing holes. http://www.shawplugs.com/home.php |
Stevem123
| Posted on Sunday, December 21, 2008 - 03:06 pm: |
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It's just a standard drain plug replacement from a auto parts store. Don't remember the size or threads. The cover was thick enough where I put it that I didn't need to add material. It has worked fine for the last 30K miles. The location actually drains better than the stock location with the bike on the side-stand so it's a win-win on two fronts. Drains better and easy to get to with no obstructing parts in the way. Hope that helps! BC Steve |
Jstfrfun
| Posted on Sunday, December 21, 2008 - 04:57 pm: |
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So you installed another drain plug in a different location? PM me with a better photo(I don't wear these glasses to look better, only to see better)that will show better. Thanx |
Stevem123
| Posted on Sunday, December 21, 2008 - 07:02 pm: |
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No it's the only one in the picture aside from the stock location that you can't get out without removing the muffler. BC Steve |
Stevem123
| Posted on Sunday, December 21, 2008 - 07:22 pm: |
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Jstfrfun, PM sent BC Steve |
Xldevil
| Posted on Monday, December 22, 2008 - 03:34 am: |
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So much effort (and risk to damage the cover) just to avoid to remove the muffler every 16000 Km ? To install the new plug you got to remove the primary cover and all related parts- f.e. the muffler This will take ten times longer than to remove the muffler once in a while. Where´s the benefit? My two cents. |
Bandm
| Posted on Monday, December 22, 2008 - 10:15 am: |
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I use a Vacula to suck trans fluid out through the clutch cover, removed for trans service anyway. http://usa.vacula.com/newsite/produkter/products.p hp?product_id=35 |
Stevem123
| Posted on Monday, December 22, 2008 - 12:44 pm: |
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Xldevil, I understand your concerns and concur to some degree. However, I only did the mod as an addition to performing a much needed replacement of the primary chain adjuster shoe as mine had the older one with the thin backing plate that has a tendency to break and cause damage to the other primary components. Since I had the cover off anyway to do that it was a no-brainer to go ahead and add a drain plug while I had it apart. My decision is based on the fact that I don't like to disturb exhaust components unless absolutely necessary. We've all heard the ongoing saga of broken header studs and cracked headers. I believe that once the exhaust is installed and heat cycled several times, it will stay good as long as it doesn't get disturbed and everything remains tight. If you have to constantly remove the muffler just to change the primary fluid, the ensuing process will cause changes in the fitment of the exhaust components and introduce unwanted stress to the exhaust components resulting in fatigue cracks etc. Maybe this is just my analogy but it has worked fine for me since I have never had any exhaust component related problems. If you are worried about damaging the cover doing the mod then maybe you are better off leaving it alone as your skills may be questionable to do the mod. As someone else stated there is/are competent people that can do the mod for you for minimal cost. The only downside would be the time it takes to send the cover out to have it done and get it back. Also as stated there are other solutions such as using some sort of vaccum pump (vacula) to suck out the old fluid, denting the muffler to get the stock drain plug out and deal with the ensuing mess, or you can happily spend your time removing your muffler for an otherwise 10 minute job to change the fluid. I opted for the easy way out since I had the cover off anyway. BC Steve |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, December 22, 2008 - 01:14 pm: |
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ON GOING SAGA OF BROKEN HEADER STUDS ??? This is because the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL does not have the PROPER SEQUENCE to install the exhaust system in it and 99% of the technicians do not have a clue ... Have over 106K miles on my 1997 S3T and have never broken an exhaust stud ... |
Xldevil
| Posted on Monday, December 22, 2008 - 01:32 pm: |
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I can agree with your decision since you had to remove the cover anyway. I can not agree with your thinking about broken header studs because of disturbing the exhaust system´s integrity. I had my muffler and header on and off so many times during the last 5 years and never had any probs in that area. Nor had I experienced any probs with my Sportster´s header studs during the last 8 years as well . If you would ask me,most,if not all of them studs die because of something else: Without a torque wrench the header nuts are prone to be overtightened.From time to time they usually come loose and should be retorqued on a regular base. I believe a lot of people fall in that "to much of torque" trap to make them stay and to get rid of leaks. The too much of the engine´s vertical movement is another reason why the studs break. I´m using a Stenzel Stütze,Nord-Lock washers and a good Hazet torque wrench,no more loose nuts,no broken header studs,no broken front engine mount! http://www.nord-lock.com/ (Message edited by Xldevil on December 22, 2008) |
Stevem123
| Posted on Monday, December 22, 2008 - 05:09 pm: |
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Very cool lock washers! I'll have to give those a try myself. Thanks for the link! True I don't really see why so many people have exhaust issues either and I have to admit I hardly ever use a torque wrench. I do however have a certain feel since I've been wrenching for more years than I care to think about. I too have never had a problem with my headers but now I've probably jinxed myself now that I said that...... BC Steve |
V74
| Posted on Tuesday, December 23, 2008 - 06:40 am: |
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got to say great idea,another reason for the mod,and why i will be doing this is because the oem drain plug is easy to cross thread and i no-longer have any faith in it, |