| Author | Message | ||
     Bo_sox |
OK, so I'm about to start another winter modification and need advice. Are there any unforeseen headaches or issues I should know about before removing primary cover on an '06 Ss. My plan is to remove the primary cover in order to paint it, color matched to the charcoal gray frame (I have never been a fan of the titanium goldish stock color). I have already acquired a new primary gasket and shift shaft seal from A.S.B. and have read the procedures in my Buell shop manual several times. Is it as easy and simple as it sounds? Or are there any tricks or hidden headaches that would be helpful to know in advance? Thanks for any and all advice! | ||
| Hogs |
Its been awhile , But I`ll throw my .02 cents for ya... Undo Clutch lever cable from Hand Level and then route down and out, and lay down on floor straight out towards front of the bike....( Very Careful do NOT Undo if you do... Then do ( then of course you will have to unhook it inside as the shop manual shows ) DO NOT Over Tighten the cable end back into the Primary cover, VERY easy to Strip/ and break off on the cable end that Screws into the Primary and Screw up the Threads that the cable screws into.....) Undo the P. Bolts and of course remove the shifter bolt.... BAsic as it is...Just be careful when ya reinstall all bolts especially the smaller ones for the Clutch cover etc Not to use the amount of torque the manual says..Just tighten one turn before You Strip them...  ( Get the Point )and then route cable back up opposite from Removing... I`m sure others can add.. (Message edited by hogs on December 13, 2008) (Message edited by hogs on December 13, 2008) | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
I've had a few times where putting it back on, some parts of the clutch mechanism fell back in the primary, which then I had to take it off to get that piece that fell in. Another pain is the installing/removing the clutch cable from the primary, I have not found a better system of taking it off: you have to spin the primary around the cable, its a pain. *Another is sometimes if you have the chain-tentioner attached to the primary it is kinda hard to put the primary on because the tentioner-shoe gets caught on the primary chain, simply have your hand pushing up on the primary chain and make sure the p-cover/shoe doesnt get snagged by the p-chain.* Another is the shifter bolt that protrudes out & through the primary has to be spot-on aligned-perfectly for it to pass/slide through the hole *(this is where the chain/shoe problem may occur also)* Another is the p-gasket can/will/may falloff and be out of alignment The primary cover WILL get caught on the back end from the rider-foot-rest-thingy, simply shimmy/twist the p-cover around it ~~hope this helps | ||
| New12r |
The primary cover WILL get caught on the back end from the rider-foot-rest-thingy, simply shimmy/twist the p-cover around it Or pull off the rearset with the 3 bolts that hold it on. The clutch cable needs to be undone at the lever, undo the end at the clutch pull off the strap at the dogbone mount Then unscrew the adjuster on the cable itself until it is two peices. Now you can unscrew the cable from the primary with a wrench. A coat hanger works great for pulling up on the chain through the inspection hole so you can easily slide the primary on over the adjuster shoe. Masking tape the front and rear of the gasket on, by the dowel pins, just before seating the primary pull the tape off. Remove your old shift shaft seal while the primary is off. Reinstall the seal with a chrome 14mm-9/16 deep well socket *after* you install the primary. Put tape over the splines of the shift shaft to avoid damaging the seal. Follow the torque sequence exactly as the manual says. That is all I got off the top of my head. | ||
| Bo_sox |
Sweet! Thanks for the pointers you guys. There's some key points in there that the manual doesn't suggest. I'll be giving it a stab in the next couple of weekends. | ||
| Skinstains |
Loosen the p chain adjuster. | ||
| Gschuette |
I thought the manual was slightly vague on the clutch. When I did it it looked like you needed to un key all the clutch pieces before it came out. Instead just continue backing off on the threads with the flat blade screwdriver until the entire mechanism comes off the shaft. Then you can easily disassemble the clutch cable to clutch mechanism. I hate the magnesium cover as well. Good idea changing the color but why not powdercoat? Your boots will rub it and being so close to the road it will get chipped. The can of paint is about $25 at american sportbike. I would guess that a good powdercoater could do it for $50-75. Are you going to do the cam cover as well? | ||
| Bo_sox |
Good idea! I might look into powdercoating once I have the cover off. I'm also considering the idea of the wrinkle black look after a buddy suggested it. I already have a couple cans of the frame paint from A.S.B. as I've already color matched my aftermarket pegs, heel guards, gas cap, sides of the windscreen housing, side seat rails, and tail section. So, I was trying to keep the theme going, but powdercoating might be the answer. I'm not going to mess with the cam cover (looks like a pain in the ass) and my headers are covered in black header wrap so the magnesium color isn't as pronounced. Thanks for the idea and hell it might even be easier to buy a new primary cover in the wrinkle black and then sell mine off. Just another thought. |
