| Author | Message | ||
     Lanretsr |
So I'm about to do a fluid change before winter and I've decided to use Red line 75W140 in the trans. My question is though they offer one with out the friction modifier. I'm wondering if the friction modifiers they add to their oil has any effect on the clutch at all and if this would be any better? Here a link to it http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants. asp?productID=39&subCategoryID=15&categoryID=6 | ||
| Bombardier |
It is a GL-5 oil. DO NOT USE AS THE HIGH SULPHUR CONTENT WILL BE DETRIMENTAL TO YOUR STATOR ASSEMBLY. THE SULPHUR REMOVES THE CLEAR COAT ON THE WINDINGS AND THEN CORRODES THE COPPER WIRING. This is documented on this site in the knowledge vault. caveat emptor my friend. Not pushing their product as I have not used it myself but Amsoil has an interesting read on its site about its oil that you can use in both the engine and trans/primary. (Message edited by Bombardier on November 29, 2008) (Message edited by Bombardier on November 29, 2008) | ||
| Lanretsr |
ok, but I've been using Mobil One with the GL-5 additive in there for 12,000 miles now and I've had the rotor off recently and the stator is fine. Any even if it does go bad it's only about an hour of my time to change it. My question is though whats the difference between the normal 75w140 and the 75w140Ns? Does it effect the clutch at all? And does anyone run 75w140 and found it to be better? Ie. smoother shifting, less noise, etc? | ||
| Bombardier |
Any even if it does go bad it's only about an hour of my time to change it. Assuming you are at home when your stator gives up. I guess you have not allowed for pushing and sweating time in the equation. Tried to help but as for your question about Redline differences perhaps the website may be of some use to you with regards specs and what the different components of the oil will do for your bike. | ||
| Boltrider |
The Red Line 75W-140 should not be used on motorcycles with wet clutches. The modifiers in that oil are designed for use in car/truck differentials that have limited-slip traction devices in them (like a positraction unit). These modifiers allow the clutches to slip a little bit while going around a corner. So using that oil in a motorcycle tranny will induce more clutch slippage in the basket. If you're going to use this stuff, use the 75w-140 NS. But there's also the stator problem, so it's your choice. (Message edited by boltrider on February 07, 2009) | ||
| Thunderbox |
Why is everyone so reluctant to use the OEM Formula+ oil. It has a 10000 mile change out and seems to work awsum. It was specially designed to work with the new Helical gears since 06 models came out. It's not even expensive. I just do not understand it. | ||
| Court |
The same reason that I buy the most expensive guitar strings I can buy. Deep in my heart I know it makes absolutely no difference. I also know that running Mobil 1 in my F-150 and changing it every 5,000 is a total waste too. As I've said in other oilversation . . and you correctly ponder . . the days of "bad oil" are long gone. There is no doubt that some oils are better but the cheapest oils you can buy (and the OEM is among the top), in concert with proper maintenance, will take your bike to 100,000 trouble free. Ssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.  | ||
| Yktinwi |
I agree with Court, ". . . the days of "bad oil" are long gone." In the early '80s Quaker had a problem. Me, as a rider/driver with 47 years experience I have never personally known anyone who had an engine fail due to a bad motor oil. Oil seems to be a favorite topic of all motorcyclists--I say, as do many others, use what make ya feel good, it'll make your engine quieter, smoother, torquier, and will smell better as well. If you visit bobistheoilguy.com you'll find some interesting oil & filter facts. |
