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Jos51700
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 11:37 am: | 
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I'm telling you, if you run that last schematic, and pop that circuit-breaker, you're gonna have NO lights! |
Mikef5000
| | Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 11:19 am: |
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The only lights it would effect would be the head lights and fog lights. The tail light, brake light, and all four turn signals would still work fine.
Got a handy solution? The only one I can think of is run the main power line to the HID relay/timer on it's own fuse to the battery. I don't really want to do that (the whole purpose of the Aux fuse block is to eliminate the mass of separate fuses).
Plus then if I blow the fuse, I'll still have no lights. And the beauty of the circuit breaker is that it'll turn back on after a few seconds. (Unless something is very shorted out, in which case I'd need to find it before riding more anyway!
(Message edited by Mikef5000 on November 06, 2008) |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 01:27 pm: |
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Can you not power the HID's through the OE headlight circuit? I certainly understand not wanting the ratnest of wiring, but losing all forward lighting (well, you might still have running lights) would be bad at night. |
Mikef5000
| | Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 01:44 pm: |
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I can, but will not power my HID's through the OE headlight circuit.
I trust MY setup more than the OE for 70 watts constant and double that starting power draw. The OE setup is NOT made for it.
Remember, I'm running TWO HID low beams. |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 05:09 pm: |
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I thought HID's had a lower draw, but I'm probably wrong.
What's the wattage on the Foggle's? If they're low enough, maybe you could run power for them through the OE headlamp circuit and gain redundancy that way? |
Froggy
| | Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 05:16 pm: |
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Most HID kits are 35W draw, but they do suck more power when they first start up. |
Mikef5000
| | Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 08:59 pm: |
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Arg!
Standard HID's are considered 35 watt. Standard Halogens are 55 watts. So an HID bulb uses LESS power when on.
The problem inlays that a HID light has a quick BURST of electricity on startup, which is likely to be 15 amps! (That's 180 watts of power!)
So for that first second (yes, only one second) your pumping three times the power through the OE connector than it was meant to have. TRIPLE! While it SHOULDN'T hurt anything because it's only happening for a second, the possibility is CERTAINLY there!
Now remember I'm running TWO HID bulbs as my low beam.
So I'm pumping nearly 360 WATTS of power through a connector made for 55.
Froggy's 55 watt HID's are the Shiznet, but require about 20 amps to start up! (still using less than 5 when on). So one 55 watt HID bulb is pumping nearly 240 watts of power through a connector made for 55 on startup.
What it all comes down to is this; Many have run HID's through the OE wiring without any problems. Some have had problems. I will be using a Relay to avoid the possibility of problems.
EDIT: I just wanted to add that in no way was I saying froggy did anything wrong. I don't know if he used a relay or not, and I don't care (see big bold statement above). I LOVE froggys setup, and if I had it to do over again, I'd have the same 55 watt HID's he has. I just used him as an example about 55 watt HID's.
(Message edited by mikef5000 on November 06, 2008) |
Mikef5000
| | Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 09:13 pm: |
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After staring at that diagram, I am beginning to think JOS51700 might be on to something. There's a lot of things that have to work (circuit breaker, relay, fuse, timer/relay) in order for my headlights to come on. I think I'm going to leave everything wired like I have it in the previous diagrams, but add an 'emergency' headlight switch, that would run straight from the battery, through the switch, to the HID ballasts. This kind of amp draw would be BAD for a switch, but since it will not be used regularly (probably never) I think it'll work.
The switch will be hidden, most likely under the seat or even under the airbox with the rest of the crap.
Again, it would ONLY be used if something in the system failed, and as a last resort.
If I ever sell this bike I'll have to publish a new freaking service manual for it! |
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