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Preybird1
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 11:15 am: | 
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Update on problem, Here is a picture of the impact on piston and the bent valve removed
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i20/preybird1/Im age001-2-1.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i20/preybird1/Im age006-1.jpg
also i cant get the valve seal and collar out of the head its stuck pretty good any ideas to get it out? |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 12:54 pm: |
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All that holds that seal collar in is vacuum underneath, sealed from the oil.
Go ahead and yank those barrels! |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 01:59 pm: |
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Damn my machinist called and said he has to take the other valve out to get the old guide out he has to heat it up to 300 degrees to get it out, He said it is stuck and he needs another seal for the intake valve because it will cook it. Any thoughts....I was just going to put new valve in and gasket's and run the bike for another month till snow hits and then i am going to replace the pistons and have the head ported and polished to a mild stage 2 bigger valves and double beehive springs and put in the 1250cc bolt on kit from NRHS. I tried to get that guide out and it would not budge I had it in the vise and tried to pop it out with a mallet to no success! |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 03:26 pm: |
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Are you trying to remove the guide or the seal/collar?
You'll get new seals with your gasket set.
You'll also find that most port jobs on these heads involve adding material and shrinking the port.
I've never seen "double beehive" springs. I'll have to look into that. |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 04:15 pm: |
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This is the problem child
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i20/preybird1/Im age008-1.jpg
When the valve crumpled it cracked off 2 pieces of this part just at the tip or the bottom of the part, I retrieved them from the muffler can
(Message edited by preybird1 on October 31, 2008) |
Wikid_intent
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 05:16 pm: |
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Preybird, How did all this happen? Iam a new buelligan and just curious. thanks, IL4 convert! |
Wikid_intent
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 05:26 pm: |
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Ok preybird I just figured it nvrmnd sorry i am still a FNG. |
Jstfrfun
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 08:05 pm: |
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So far so good Bird, don't half-ass this thing now and screw the pooch. You're there, do the right thing. Replace your seals and ride knowing it'll hold together for the month(mabey you'll head south for some GOOD weather) before the snow comes.
Glad you leaned on John and Jim. They are both good hands. |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Friday, October 31, 2008 - 10:27 pm: |
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What do you guys think about the rear its fine, The compression psi is 110-111. I have all the gasket's and the valve seals and the valve for the front, Also a new head gasket. I still need a new valve guide now. Man the parts guy must have been pissed i called him 5 times and kept adding parts to the list lol. I have always put new gaskets on anything i take apart, Rule of thumb for me!
I would rather do the bolt on kit than piddle with this stuff, But i dont want the bike all tore apart in the shop for 3 months because i only have half the money. So im forced to just fix it and put it all back together so i can store it for the winter, Because im going to buy the kit no matter what. Hate to be in twice but it will be worth it next summer!!
no half ass is right thanks jstfrfun
HAPPY HALLOWEEN |
Kyrocket
| | Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 08:25 pm: |
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Boy, this thread came along at just the right time. Most if not all my questions are being answered before I even begin my tear down. One I have that hasn't been answered yet is, those of you that have done a 1250 or bigger, or even a rebuild for that matter. Who has taken NRHS's advice and used the Three-bond 1104 instead of a base gasket? I plan on taking the time and setting my squish band as close to .030 as I can get it and was wondering how the 1104 holds up compared to an actual gasket. Any experiences, good or bad? |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 08:51 pm: |
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Coming from a guy that doesn't have base gaskets leak after I fix 'em, I don't really see the wisdom of "Three-bond".
The biggest key to stopping base-gasket failure? Proper warm-up! |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 09:47 pm: |
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I second that...No sense in being stupid! |
Kyrocket
| | Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 11:35 pm: |
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I take a lot of ribbing from my riding buddies because I ALWAYS let my bike warm up before a ride. It's been eight years with this particular bike and it's never left the house before being warm. I was just wondering how it worked or held up. Anything would be an improvement over the paper gaskets that are probably in there now. |
Jos51700
| | Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 08:29 am: |
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HD released a steel-core, rubber coated base gasket about 3 years ago. Then, they disco'd it because there was a couple of Sportsters that it wouldn't work on for some reason or another.
Personally, I thought it was badass and bought all that I could find (This meant 3 sets). The steel-core rockerbox gaskets were light-years ahead of the paper ones, and I had hoped the rest would go that way. Honestly, it's been awhile since I've done a base gasket, and they may have something else out now...
Everybody swears by the James gaskets, but I've seen them fail before the OE gaskets on a bike that only had one cylinder done, so I dunno.
The Three-bond thing is a new one, and I won't do it to my bike. |
Kyrocket
| | Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 09:08 am: |
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I was hoping that there were/are some steel/rubber gaskets for the base. After several sets of paper rocker box gaskets I went with the Cometic and they're still on til this day with no signs of leakage. There was only one place within a two hour drive that carried Cometic gaskets. I went in and asked for a set for a '99 Buell and the guy said, "we don't carry 'nuttin for no Buell." I then asked for a set for a '99 sporty 1200 and he quickly came back with a set. I think it was American Iron who no longer have that location or any location in the state that I know of. I just want all my ducks lined up perfectly so my rebuild will go as smooth as possible.
Which brings me to another question, the squish band. Is it imperative that it be addressed? I realize the engine is built to certain specks but I've also worked factory assembly lines and know that there are tolerances worked into the equation. Better to have the piston too far from the head than too close. Could we have built a better product? Sure, but the time spent would have made it very cost restrictive and we wouldn't have gotten 1/4 of what we did out the door. I'm sure the Buell worker didn't have the four+ months I do to build this thing.
Thanks for the replies guys. |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 03:38 pm: |
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Ok update here: Got the head together and going to install today
Got the hook up valve installed valve lapping new valve guide pressed in all for $70.00. Now to put the bike back together, Man its a lot of work.
I will definatley ride it in the cold but not water or snow! |
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