| Author | Message | ||
     Mikef5000 |
There is SO LITTLE FREE SPACE on this bike it's beginning to piss me off! I want to fit a few relays and a SMALL (4 circuit) fuse block in the tail section of my XB-S, and I honestly don't think it's all going to fit! I know for a fact it won't fit with the 'tool kit' still there. I LOVE the extreme compact look of this bike, but I'm finding it DOES NOT come without consequences. Someone posted they fit a HID ballast under the airbox cover. Is there that much space in there? I have an 05, and am still using the exhaust solenoid. (I've yet to see under there) I'm trying to find a place to hide four standard relays:  | ||
| Froggy |
Hah! I am saying the same thing this afternoon. Been trying to install my HID ballasts, I think I am gonna remove the horn  | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
there's a huge ammount of space in the airbox. the best place to place something is in the back of the it, there's a hole/indention that can house a digital camera <-- example to complete the picture | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Hah! I am saying the same thing this afternoon. Been trying to install my HID ballasts, I think I am gonna remove the horn : ) OK, just above the headlights is a ground bolt that screws in from the back. You can unscrew that bolt, and the horn will screw right in facing backwards. This opens up MUCH more space for your ballasts. Just run the ground wire to a different bolt (like on the left side of the 'fairing mount'). Here you go:  You can see the bottom half of the back of my horn... just below the ballasts, behind that red clip. Just make sure of two things when you do this: Throttle cables move freely in all steering positions and Nothing is making contact with the front of the horn or it will muffle the sound dramatically. there's a huge ammount of space in the airbox. EXCELLENT! That's where I'll hide all my relays then! | ||
| Lighninginthesky |
Yah, had the same problem. I have packed the instrument module and all I did was place the head lights each and Horn on separate relayed circuits strait off the battery, installed heated grip and GPS. Where did you get the small fuse block? I have been unable to find them. let us know if you find a clean installation of the fuse block. I place mine in the airbox but I'm very unhappy with it. The fuses are to far from the battery and it doesn't look professional. (Message edited by lighninginthesky on October 29, 2008) | ||
| Froggy |
Mike, I will try that. Airbox isn't an option on my bike! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I have two ballasts and most of the wiring harness for my twin HIDs in the airbox. Really cleaned up the front area. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I went on a two day INTENSE search for an Aux fuse block that would work for what I wanted. What I found out is that for some reason NO ONE makes these to use the tiny blade fuses like out OEM fuse box. I SO wish they did, that would work so much better. I found this one online and liked it. It's a 6 bus, with screw terminals:  But I found this one locally so I just picked one up. 4 bus, crimp terminals:  It looks all nice and cute in the picture... but it's significantly larger than I hoped. Jegs and Summit racing have them online for $10. (search: Painless fuse block), but AFTER I bought it I found the exact same part (minus the name brand tag) for $3 and Advance Auto Parts. Now I have to wait to ship some relays... but here's the (scary? ugly? stator killing? fire starting?) plan of a schematic:  I left out some obvious stuff like ground lines. Also the cig. lighter won't be switched with the heated grips, it's just on the same line since they're both in the same area on the bike. The relays on the rear signals are to turn them into 'constant on' rear marker lights, that still blink. I have the resistors to fix the flasher as well, just not on this schematic. I'm open for any suggestions and opinions. Here's some numbers: HIDs = 2x35 watt = 6 amp Fogs = 2x55 watt = 10 amp grips = 2x20 watt = 4 amp Cig lighter = 3 amp Rear markers = 2 amp Brake strobe = 2 amp heated vest (tender lead) = 3 amp total with EVERYTHING on FULL BLAST = 30 amps. The main circuit breaker and relay will be rated for 40 amp. | ||
| Jos51700 |
You don't need all those relays. The turnsignals, whether running lights or not, only need one relay, the stock one. Your HID may or may not need a relay, some are built into the ballast. (They don't draw that much, some don't need relays) You don't need a relay between the fusebox and the power source unless you want all your accessories running off of one main "accessory" switch, nor do you need a circuit breaker, (unless you're worried about your power wire rubbing through somewhere, in which case you'd want either an inline fuse, or fusible link of the proper size). The fusebox is your circuit protection, and a circuit breaker is kind of redundant. The foglights probably DO need a relay. Really, you could share a relay for most componants, but realize you don't want ALL your forward lighting sharing the same relay. And that lead to THE major issue with this design. The way you have this now, if you did pop a circuit breaker, or relay, in your main power line, you lose ALL YOUR LIGHTING. Bad plan, man. My suggestions: Run your HID's through the stock headlight fuse and circuit. Makes life simple, offers multiple lines of light in case of an issue, and you still know which fuse it is (The headlamp fuse, maybe?). Pop an HID fuse, your fogs are still on, kind of thing. Your turnsignals don't need to change much. Add front signals to the rear for dual filaments, run your running-light power wire to your new fuse block. Run power to your foggles from the new fuse block, with a relay Run power to cig. lighter from 3rd terminal on fuse block I'm not sure what the "brake strobe" is, but why wouldn't it get it's power from the OE brake light circuit? If you're sweating lighting this much, I really like the LED kits from American Sport Bike (It's like a lightsabre, for your ass), and I think they offer them that blink and flash and everything else. You can also run your second filament of your rear turnsignals to your brake light power feed or buy the HD rear turnsignal/brake module if you want turn-signal-brake-light-blinky action. If space is still an issue, they do make mini-relays. Oh, and if you want to get in the Guiness Book for accessories: http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/456790 Other than that it is hard to find mini-fuse blocks. Try this 'un: http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail/M37/4609 0 Or any of these: http://order.waytekwire.com/products/M37/140/350/6 50/1 (Message edited by jos51700 on October 29, 2008) | ||
| Froggy |
Mike, the horn trick worked like a charm. Mine has slimmer ballasts, both of mine are setup like the one you got on the left. Now once I find my wire stripper I can finish installing the damn relay. Stupid ass setup had too much wire in one spot, and not enough in another. | ||
| Jos51700 |
If I'm understanding what you want to add, this would allow you to add everything, offer redundant lighting, protect every circuit, and allow you to fully overload your charging system (It has room for more junk!). Also, you can cram your HID ballast up front, in the flyscreen, and you only need to fit one relay (which can hide in a lot of places) and your new fuse box. Depending on where you're mounting your foglights, you should have room for that relay in the flyscreen, airbox, airscoop (High and dry, please), etc. If you have an '05 or earlier, you should be able to fit everything in the frame hole, and go to a fresh air intake! Just get nice, heavy wire (spend the money, it's worth it!), and you should be good to go. Note: If you still want to add a fuse between your new block, and battery, now you could because not ALL your lighting depends on that solo fuse. I wouldn't, depending on routing, but you could.  | ||
| Jos51700 |
The hallmark of poor workmanship and future problems. If you have any scotchlock's, toss 'em, please. For the love of all that is holy, and Buell, please? This job looks great, and then, like a boob-job scar:  So please, for me?  | ||
| Mikef5000 |
You don't need all those relays. The turnsignals, whether running lights or not, only need one relay, the stock one. I need the extra relays to turn single filament signals into 'dual filament' signals. Your HID may or may not need a relay, some are built into the ballast. (They don't draw that much, some don't need relays) I've seen enough melted connectors to know I WILL run a relay for my HIDs, also it is a timer to allow the bike to startup before the HIDs You don't need a relay between the fusebox and the power source I do if I want to fuse box to be 'switched' with the ignition. otherwise it would always be 'on'. The hallmark of poor workmanship and future problems. If you have any scotchlock's, toss 'em, please. They're from the PO, I will eliminate them. | ||
| Damnut |
I've seen enough melted connectors to know I WILL run a relay for my HIDs, also it is a timer to allow the bike to startup before the HIDs Just curious as to how many melted connectors you have seen with HIDs. I've only seen one here. | ||
| Jos51700 |
I've seen more melted STOCK headlight connectors than HID meltdowns. It happens alot, especially on HD's with that nice chrome headlight shell holding in the heat. I do if I want to fuse box to be 'switched' with the ignition. otherwise it would always be 'on' Good point! I was thinking (although not clearly enough) that you were pulling power for your second fuseblock, from your accessories port. That's typically what I do, if possible, so the circuit wiring is fused. also it is a timer to allow the bike to startup before the HIDs That's depandant on a few factors. Your bike should drop power to the headlights during cranking, anyways (at least mine does). Also some ballasts have a built-in timer or an adjustable timer. So, you're going to use a separate switch to turn on your headlights, or did you find a relay with a built-in timer? If you have a timer-relay, I'd like to know more about it. I need the extra relays to turn single filament signals into 'dual filament' signals. True, either method will work. Although they won't be true-dual-filament without changing the signal itself or modifying it in some way. I was just thinking in the context of saving underseat space. Then the rears go bright-dim-bright in t/s mode, not on-off-on. As long as your fogs and HIDs aren't running from the same circuit, I'd say it's gonna be badass when you're done. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Just curious as to how many melted connectors you have seen with HIDs. I'm running both HIDs (35wX2=70 Watts) off the low beam, so that'd be more draw than OEM, I'm not risking it. (they are bi-xenon HIDs, both low beam and both high beam). Your bike should drop power to the headlights during cranking, anyways (at least mine does). did you find a relay with a built-in timer? If you have a timer-relay, I'd like to know more about it. Yes, headlight power dips when you hit the starter... which is BAD for HID ballasts. I'm using a 'timer-relay' to delay HID startup by about 30 seconds, which should give me enough time to hit the key, wait for the engine light to go out, start it up, and allow the idle to settle a bit. True, either method will work. Although they won't be true-dual-filament without changing the signal itself or modifying it in some way. I was just thinking in the context of saving underseat space. Then the rears go bright-dim-bright in t/s mode, not on-off-on. The bike came with some nice aftermarket LED signals which I like, so I don't really want to change them out. With regards to saving space, you are correct, and buying new signals would be the better thing to do. | ||
| Jos51700 |
LED's kick azz. If you want them as running lights I think you can set a single aftermarket relay to supply power all the time, and cut power on t/s mode. (Older cars did this with the taillights). IF possible it would fit in the same place as the OE flasher. Space is a commodity on any Buell except XB-X models! | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I couldn't think how one relay would work and still blink both sides individually. | ||
| Hammeroid |
get rid of the flask on the left and you will have plenty of room. | ||
| Darthane |
...chances are good you don't need full ISO relays, either. 1/2 ISOs are good for 15A continuous and are half the size (these are what are used in our bikes from the factory). | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I was looking for smaller relays for the signals... but I couldn't find any WITH the connectors. (Oh, and I'm cheap as hell, so even if I could find them, I wouldn't pay more than ten bucks each for them) And that flask to the left would be the second HID ballast. | ||
| Jos51700 |
"I couldn't think how one relay would work and still blink both sides individually." Older model car turn-signal relay should do it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
One relay could do it if you were willing to run the current for the signal through the turn signal switch. Don't know how it's wired on the Buell. | ||
| Darthane |
Mike, I might have some connectors/terminals for the 1/2 ISO relays. I'll look when I get home and let you know. | ||
| Bombardier |
I have been running HID on both high and low for nearly 25000km with zero melting of anything. 90% of the riding at night dodging 'roos. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Wow! This took FOREVER! I kept second guessing myself with EVERYTHING I did. Today I installed the Auxiliary fuse block, complete with a relay (so it's only powered when the key is ON) and circuit breaker. I also installed the two relays that turned the rear signals into running lights, as well as a brake light blinker (that flashes the brake light three times before turning on steady every time I hit the brakes). I also cleaned up under the flyscreen (removing the resistors for the LED signals and the 3M clips, the only clip left is in there to make both headlights ON on high beam) Under flyscreen:  $15 Ebay special Brake light flasher:   In the Airbox:    Ignore those stray red and yellow wires going in front of the filter, they aren't used in my setup, and will get tucked out of the way. Also only one fuse is in there because I haven't wired up the HID's, Fogs, or Heated Grips yet. It looks uglier in the pictures than it really is. The mass of wires just looks like chaos in the pictures. I swear there's organization and cleanliness in reality! The left rear lower airbox bolt (under the relay wires) is the ground bolt for all the relays and resistors, and the right rear lower airbox bolt (immediately next to the fuse block) is bolted through the fuse block to hold it down. Everything is solid as a freaking rock! These LED rear signals are BRIGHT AS HELL as running lights!  Bigger pictures here: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3181/3003365717_c03 c190e6b.jpg?v=0 This was the hard part. Now I've got the switched fused circuits open and ready to add anything and everything. I'm quite happy with it. (Message edited by mikef5000 on November 04, 2008) | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
good job  , make sure everything is bolted down so the electronics dont bounce around and exit through the snorkel  i'd think that you wouldnt need LED Resistors for em, arn't blinkers already 12volt ready...? (Message edited by ochoa0042 on November 04, 2008) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Everything is bolted down nicely so NOTHING can move. BUT, everything is also on the outside of the filter, so even if it did come loose nothing could get sucked in. In order for the OEM turn signal 'flasher' to blink, you need the resistors. Otherwise when you hit the turn signal they just turn on steady. It's not the 12v that's the problem, it's the power draw. LED's pull so much less power than OEM bulbs, the 'flasher' doesn't even know lights are connected unless you use the resistors. OR I could just buy the flasher from American Sport Bike that works with LED's, but I'm on a bit of a budget. When I dig in for round two (HID's, probably next week) I'm thinking about adding a "4-way flasher" switch somewhere. It'd be a handy 'farkle' that wouldn't cost but a couple bucks for the switch (my favorite kind of farkle). I'll also be adding a "Fat Bastard Style" LED Voltage light. (Message edited by mikef5000 on November 04, 2008) | ||
| Mikef5000 |
What I did today (Stage 1):  And an accurate "Mikef5000 Auxiliary Wiring" schematic:  | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Oh I forgot to mention... I wasn't a big fan of putting the fuse block in the airbox. I'd MUCH rather it be under the seat for easy viewing/changing. BUT, under the seat the ONLY way I saw it could work would be in place of the tool kit. I opted to make it a bit more difficult to work with, but keep the tool kit on board. |
