Author |
Message |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 07:33 pm: |
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http://www.narleychoppers.com/servlet/the-75225/Fr ont-Engine-Iso-Mount/Detail These guys have a good price on it! ez |
Robi
| Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 08:34 pm: |
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So I'm taking it you are saying "yes, get the better one." |
Robi
| Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 08:38 pm: |
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With shipping looks like it comes to $41.70. I'm going to see how close it is locally on Monday. Thanks again for lookin' out. |
Toniportray
| Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 09:23 pm: |
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My troubles are not yet over with my motor mount issues... My dilemma now is that the same hole that had the stuck bolt in it has a slight thread defect. I think one of the screw threads near the top of the hole is messed up. I was putting a bolt in with a box wrench when the bolt tilted downward with about 1/4 of a turn of movement and in doing so seems to have fouled up a thread somewhere at the top of the hole. I can't see where it is or what the problem is because everything is back on the bike and mounted together (except the shock). I don't now how to deal with this. I try to thread the screw in by hand, but it only twists in a bit, then comes loose and loses traction in the threads, making it fall out of the hole. Anyone have any tips for dealing with this dilemma? I try holding the bolt down with my finger while screwing it in with a wrench, but it just slips out of the hole after 1/2 a turn. I'm not using the allen bolt heads, since I've replaced them with new standard hex head bolts that have more surface area. It takes a bit more time to put in, but the bolts should hold up better with the increased surface area. |
Reuel
| Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 10:47 pm: |
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After making absolutely sure you didn't get the wrong threads (I've had that happen when I've had too much mind altering liquid substances) get a screw tap to fix the threads. Use a dab of oil on the tap. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 11:09 pm: |
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Concur! |
Robi
| Posted on Monday, October 20, 2008 - 09:58 am: |
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I decided to go with the cheaper isolator. The main reason is that in order to afford the pricier one, I'll have to wait an additional 2 wks for the next pay period. Additionally, I don't ride hard, so I'm hoping the cheaper one will get me a few miles that I need to get. I'm hoping I'm not being unreasonable by being so stingy. How does this sound? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, October 20, 2008 - 01:48 pm: |
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Good luck - follow the advice on the top of the page, do the dance around the Oak tree and you may get lucky -lol EZ |
Reuel
| Posted on Monday, October 20, 2008 - 05:44 pm: |
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Works with young maple, too. Haven't tried poplar... |
Robi
| Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 09:20 am: |
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tomorrow will be 3 weeks. the cheaper isolator came off back order 10/31/08, but they still don't have it. they get most of their orders in on Thu/Fri, so it might come in tomorrow. they have the pricier one in stock. I may just get that. |
Robi
| Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 11:00 pm: |
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Hey, need some quick help. I borrow a lot of tools from my neighbor. I want to be sure I ask him for the right tools by tomorrow, in case he's not available over the weekend. Any special tools? I know I don't have any sockets that fit the main bolt that goes through the isolator. Does anyone know what size that is? |
Berkshire
| Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 11:40 pm: |
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Seems like I needed a socket w/ 3/8" hex male - like an allen wrench - for the bottom end of that bolt, or maybe a regular allen wrench would've worked, but my set just didn't have one that big. The nut on the top end is 11/16", and needs an "offset" box-end wrench to line up with it... ...that's IF I remember correctly |
Robi
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 08:26 am: |
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Can you explain the "offset" box-end wrench? I googled it, and it looks like that's the closed end of a combination wrench. Does the "offset" mean it's bent at the end? Will this be 11/16" also? |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 10:35 am: |
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Yes its 11/16, you need a pretty dramatic offset. I found on at a pawn shop for about a buck! |
Robi
| Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 12:08 pm: |
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I'm not able to visualize how I need to use the offset. I'm am slammed at work. I will review service manual shortly. |
Buuueller
| Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 11:17 pm: |
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Just thought I would mention, my front mount broke Fri on the highway...doing 65. Thats the second time its happened in 5000 miles. Well, the first time was just a bolt broken off in the head, but this time the aluminum bracket itself broke. The engine fell forward until it contacted the frame...what fun The dealer wont cover it under warranty this time due to "Extensive Modifications"...lol Oh well, its just a $20 part. I cant help but wonder why this area is so weak on a bike with a suspended engine? I should be able to flip that thing end over end without the engine falling out! I know I know, dont down talk Buell around here. Ez will get ya. But...I cant take it anymore. I know its not enough bike for me, but engines falling out? Under normal conditions? I think Im going to fix her and sell her.... Guess I better sleep on it.... |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2008 - 11:59 pm: |
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Troy - if your bike still has a dated warranty - aka - if it is on paper still in its warranty mods having nothing to do with the engine bracket or isolator failing. I would call Buell Customer Service andsee what they have to say. EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 01:22 am: |
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Makes me wonder if they did the motor mount right, aka: followed the factory repair manual. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 10:49 am: |
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Concur! |
Reuel
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 11:20 am: |
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Was a bolt broken off again with the broken mount? If it was, they probably used the wrong bolt. |
Buuueller
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 03:45 pm: |
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Thanks for the tips. Yeah the same bolt broke again. But they had to use the right bolt, its a grade 8 with a special length. You cant get a replacement from a hardware store. Trust me I tried several options. I deal closely with a fastener supplier. Turns out the warranty expired in July, and the previous repair was made in March. I contested that the mount had to have been stressed when the other bolt broke, and should be covered from the previous repair. But they told me the manufacturer would send an inspector, who would likely decline due to the modifications. It didnt help that the chrome headlight bezel was scratched from the wreck I had. the service writer said if there is a hint of a wreck the manuf. would never extend the warranty. So Im def outta luck no matter what. But like I said, its a cheap (but pain in the butt) repair. |
Reuel
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 04:41 pm: |
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If they got the bolt from Buell via its specific part number, then it's the right bolt. Any other bolt, even if it's the right length, will break again. I've been through that myself. After the third break on mine, I got the actual bolt (which has since been updated again) and it has lasted more than 20K miles and much more abuse than all 3 previous bolts combined, including a ride that ended with the rubber away from the road and 3 installations. |
Robi
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 04:55 pm: |
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Reuel - do you have a part number for the new updated bolt? I want to make sure it's the one I ordered. |
Buuueller
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 05:53 pm: |
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I may be wrong but I thought a grade 8 was the strongest you could get in that size. If I remember right it was an odd length. like 3 1/4" or something. Mines an 06 so I bet it has the most recent updated bolt if there were previous applications. I better not find out theres an upgrade. Ill pitch that bike through the front glass at the dealer. Evel Knievil never had an engine mount break.... |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 06:15 pm: |
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No - they have come out with custom bolts that are almost a grade stronger - right on them it says 8.8 grade - tough stuff. EZ |
Reuel
| Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2008 - 08:40 pm: |
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AA0718.1CXZ My bolt isn't the latest and greatest, but it's fine! |
Robi
| Posted on Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 08:38 am: |
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Think I failed to properly follow the conversation. I was talking about the bolt that goes through the isolator. PN AA0726.2CZ is what I ordered (#8, pg 54-55 of PDF parts manual). It looks like you're talking about the bolts that go through the "Do Not Remove" piece (#7, pg 54-55 of PDF parts manual). Is there an update for the bolt that goes through the isolator? |
Robi
| Posted on Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 09:00 am: |
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I don't know if this is relevant or not, but of the people who are breaking bolts: Are you using the cheaper or pricier isolator? I still haven't picked up my parts yet, but will probably tomorrow. Is it possible that the tougher isolator might be a factor? Or am I talking out of my arse? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 09:17 am: |
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Very, very few are using the tougher isolator. I dont believe the isolator bolt has been updated, but my parts book doesnt show the correct bolt anyway. I've never heard of that bolt breaking. I've never broken any bolts, brackets or isolators either, fwiw. And I've changed heads quite a few times and modified the bracket (knock wood). |
Reuel
| Posted on Thursday, November 13, 2008 - 11:20 am: |
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Sorry. Wrong bolt. I'm with Erik on this one. You're the first I've ever heard of breaking that bolt. You have the latest part number as far as I can tell. Erik--you're just not trying hard enough! |