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Loki
| | Posted on Monday, October 15, 2007 - 01:21 am: | 
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My local source went and upped his prices. Both for the tire and the mount/bal.
Now I shop for the best deal on tires and do the mount/bal in house. Really in the spare bedroom. |
Bearly
| | Posted on Monday, October 29, 2007 - 01:16 am: |
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My local Harley shop charges 199 for the rear Scorpion Sync for my Uly. The shop rate is 93 dollars per hour. If I take my wheel off the bike they will only charge me one hour worth of labor. Course you have to buy the tire from them. The Charge 199 for the rear tire.
Across the street is a Kawi, Suckzuki shop. Real nice folks. Again for them to mount it, you have to buy the tire from them. The charge 168 for that same Scorpion Sync. 20 bucks to install in on the rim off the bike. This sounds better except they scratch my wheels. Also they can't balance a tire to save their lives. They have a machine that they need to throw away.
So I bought that harbor freight changer. That was about 150 with shipping I think. I bought a Mojo Lever which is nylon protected bar for 89 dollars. Nice piece. I bought a Mark Parnes balancer, also another nice piece. I know some of you are using this machine but I just think it's junk. I tried many different configurations of rubber treatment on the rim clamps and it always scratches. You can see the thing flexing trying to apply enough pressure to the rim so it won't slip. No luck. But I like the fact that I can order the Scorpion Sync for 128 (two weeks ago, it varies). The front for like 108 both from the MotorCycleSuperstore.com
I finally bit the bullet and bought the NoMar Pro Ultra package. This machine is made here in the USA in MO. It is rock solid piece of equipment as it should be for 1500+ dollars with shipping. The quality is top notch and best part, it CAN'T scratch your wheels unless maybe you keep throwing sand at it. This unit is something that I'll have till long after I'm able to swing a leg over a bike.
I had practice bent buell rim (from the XB12Ss) that dismounted and remounted seven times and not the first scratch was noted. The standard rim locking system works great and has plenty of room for large belt sprockets or pulleys. It also a different rim clamp set that is great for knobby tires and alike. The balancer that comes with the Ultra package is nice with a set of normally optional nesting cones that will do most any tire. The bearing action is smooth and precise. You'll find yourself nipping at .25 oz weights to get it just perfect. NoMar claims that you can be accurate to within 1/16th of an oz.
The other tools that come with the "Ultra" pack are very trick. Non marring clamps that act like extra hand and keep the tire down and away from the edge work very well during the process. The "thing" is a niffty must have item. The set also comes with non marring spoons of their own design which I haven't had to use yet.
All set with a clean wheel and a new tire, one can take off the old skin and throw a new one on in just a few minutes. It's a shame it doesn't take longer because it's sorta fun! (no hate mail, I used to work in a bike shop and it wasn't fun then.) I've recently put a new set of tires on my wife's (the house monster) trail blazer. It should do most any light truck or passenger car tire although it will not do the EMT (extended mobility tire, run flats) on the Vette. EMT tires take too much pressure to break the bead. These have to be done with a powered machine.
It isn't cheep for a motorcycle owner. I figure that will pay for it's self in six to eight tire changes if compared the Harley shop. If you compare it a 20 dollar install,paying for itself could be a long time but you can take some satisfaction in doing it yourself and know that it will be done correctly and scratch free.
And it's a strange thing to note that all of a sudden, I have more biker friends which is a good thing especially the ones that own Buells :-0 |
Three_o_eight
| | Posted on Sunday, November 25, 2007 - 02:15 pm: |
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Hate to see you guys getting hosed like that. I have a guy in middle tenn that charges $40 per tire on the bike. $40 an hour for everything. Old school HD guy but luckily my M2 is pretty much the same as a sportster |
Gohot
| | Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 09:58 am: |
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I have changed many a sport bike 17" tire with irons, and believe it or not it's not that bad, but then again I'v been riding and working on my stuff since 1967. Ok heres the drill, get some WD40 and two tire irons, three would be even better, but two will work if your skilled in tire changes, also you will need a sharp knife or sizzors and a plastic milk carton. The milk carton, you will cut into a 6x10 rectangle, it helps to make two, I would sugest two. With the tire off, put down a sacrifical bathtowel, in other words you will probably grease up the towl and stain it up, "the wife you know" double up the towel, put the wheel sprocket side down REAR and spray the bead with WD40 imagining a clock before you you will push in the irons between the bead and rim, it helps to have someone holding the wheel from sliding forward, you will put the irons in at 25 minuates and about 30 minuates "the clock thing" now while mantaining forward presure on the irons, and having WD40 on the bead work the irons up and down, it will seem at first that the tire is not budging, but it is breaking the bond of tire and wheel, keep up with the up and down with the irons, slowly you wil see a gap keep working the tire, eventually the bead will come loose, flip the tire and do everything again the same way with this side. Once both beads are broke loose the milk carton pieces cone to play, each folded in half they will be pushed between the rim and tire to prevent gouging or knicks from using the irons to pull the bead over the lip,aluminum verses steel irons??? not good recipe for the rims. again WD40 is your friend, every where you use the iron to pull over the tire, use the milk carton between the tire and wheel, presto the wheel is off one side of the wheel, and the other side is broke loose but still on the rim. Now the tire stood on end hold the tire and simply by pulling the rim, Again WD is your friend, pull the tire off the rim. Now looking back at what you'v done you will see it wasn't really that dificult at all. PAY ATTENTION TO WHEEL ROTATION AND TIRE ROTATION, the tire has an arrow and should turn the same as wheel rotation, DONT BLOW IT OFf IF YOU PUT IT ON BACKWARDS, DO IT RIGHT, OR DONT DRIVE OVER 40mph !!!!!!! OK SIMPLE ENOUGH but it goes without saying the arrow is there for a reason. on the front wheel follow the same rutene, but you will find it easier with the rotor facing down, repeat all you have done with the rear, You will find the front less dificult...............the purpose of all this instruction, 1. Use the plastic carton as a rimsaver, 2.Use WD or a like product to make the tire/rim slippery, 3. that you can save money doing it yourself, and be prepared for an emergency if need be.
Iknow it seems like alot but it isn't, I just dont want to leave any vague parts to stump the novice, Happy motoring....Rich |
Gohot
| | Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 10:05 am: |
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THE MAJIOR POINTS ARE DO NOT BUNG UP THE RIM, USE THE PLASTIC CARTON, SAVE THE APPEARANCE OF YOUR WHEELS !!!!! |
Alchemy
| | Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 11:11 am: |
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Any advice on a source of irons that work well (right size) and perhaps are less likely to scar up the rims?
I really appreciate these instructional posts. I have changed tires about 40 years ago and remember it as a difficult task.
I always used an old car tire to lay the bike wheel on. It protected the motorcycle wheel/rim/spokes etc. and was tough to do without pinching the tube. Put it on, hole in tube, take it off, patch the tube, put it on, pinch the tube repeat with sufficient salty language and sweat ad nauseum. Having the right irons just the right length was a help in those days. |
Josh_
| | Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 11:26 am: |
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www.nomartirechanger.com
everything you need. check out their balancers and axle-tool also. |
Gohot
| | Posted on Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 12:50 pm: |
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IRONS?????????????? FLATTER THE BETTER, AND FOR LENGTH 8-12", 12" BEING EASIER BECAUSE OF LEVERAGE, BUT A 8" IS HANDY TOO. |
Lanretsr
| | Posted on Friday, August 08, 2008 - 09:24 am: |
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don't even bother balancing the tires. I didn't when I mounted my m3's last fall and I don't have any vibration problems. also if you look around craigslist or ebay you might be able to score a motorcycle tire machine cheap like my friend did. |
Chelpdogg
| | Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 09:16 pm: |
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Gotta shop around. my tyre shop charges 30 per wheel to change tyres on the bike and 15 if i take just the wheels and tyres in. including balancing. and i don't have to buy them there. last set of tyres i got from ebay front had a scratch on side and wouldn't seal on the bead they had 3 goes at it and couldn't get it so had to pay 10bucks for a tube but no extra for the time it took. So that cost me 40bucks. 30 to remove and fit new tyres plus 10 for the tube. BARGAIN!!! |
Bamaboy
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 - 02:45 am: |
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Had an offroad guy show me a cool trick for tubed tires. Take out the core & suck the air out of the tube with a small hose attached to a vacuum (I use a small air mattress inflator/deflator), hold your finger over the stem and reinsert the core. The tube usually falls to the bottom of the tire and helps from pinching it with the irons. Once you get the tube out, inspect for leaks/pinch marks/repair etc. Take the core out again and carefully lay the tube out as it would lay in the bottom of the tire DEFLATED and roll it up squeezing the air out. Reinsert valve core and install tube in the bottom of the tire to avoid (once again!) pinching the tube!! This trick works for me 99% of the time! The real trick to removing any tire is to utilize the relief channel!! Yamalube is good stuff too!  |
Weslo
| | Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 09:18 pm: |
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motorcycle superstore for tires and $600 for nomar tire changer and say goodbye to all the rip off artist at any dealership. they pissed me off and forced me to do it and i couldn't be happier now |
Toecutter
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 05:34 pm: |
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I like the NoMar, and for a little less money, the Cycle Hill changer looks pretty good too. I spoon mine on by hand, but I would like to get one of these changers someday. I've changed enough tires on my own already to justify the cost. |
Wilcom
| | Posted on Friday, November 06, 2009 - 10:58 pm: |
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Just changed front and rear of my sons M2..I went to Youtube and watched a couple of videos on changing sport bike tires and didn't seem too tough. Well it was tougher than it looked LOL but not so tough that I will pay some joker at the shop $200 to spin them on. I used balancing beads and the balance was perfect.
One problem with the beads , they wouldn't pour thru my valve stem, don't know that mine are different but they wouldn't go in. I just broke the bead on both tires again and poured the Beads in, no problem.
$252 for Connie Road Attacks, $20 for beads and three hours of my time beats $600-$800 at the dealer.
The biggest problem I had was getting the wheels off the Cyclone!!! Never had a motorcycle of this size that didn't have a center stand, How do you guys do it? I put 2 hoists in the garage ceiling and lifted each end off the ground, a real pain for sure....is there an easy way?
Thanks |
Froggy
| | Posted on Friday, November 06, 2009 - 11:40 pm: |
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I use a Pitbull brand set of stands. Takes only a minute to prop the bike off the ground for easy removal of both wheels. The wheels on the stand allow you to roll the bike around easily even if both rims are off the ground. Worth every penny, American Sport Bike sells them  |
Wilcom
| | Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 08:36 am: |
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Thanks Froggy..........I just checked out those stands and they are very very nice. Now I have to justify $400 for what I used to do for free, aaaargh. I guess if ya want "innovation" there are a few bumps in the road, huh. |
Froggy
| | Posted on Saturday, November 07, 2009 - 10:55 am: |
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There are cheaper alternatives out there. T-Rex makes a nice set, and Harbor Freight has a set that are even cheaper, but I wouldn't trust HF because everything else they sell is junk. |
Greg_e
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2009 - 12:24 pm: |
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The Harbor Freight tubular stand will work on the back, the compact aluminum will not fit the swingarm unless you are using the spools, even then it may not fit and certainly would lift it very high. It was cheap and I could get it when I needed it, but don't really recommend it for an XB. |
Asphaltdancer
| | Posted on Thursday, August 26, 2010 - 10:41 pm: |
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The Cycle Hill tire changer sure did catch my attention. It looks easy to use and simple. But the words "Sale of replacement parts is limited to original purchasers of our products." caught my eyes. That pretty well negates any thought of selling the unit should it no longer be needed. First time I have ever run across such a policy. Wonder what it is all about? |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Friday, August 27, 2010 - 10:52 am: |
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My suspicion is that guys that make changers on the side were buying the hard to make parts and selling them with a setup they made.
Just a hunch.. |
Prior
| | Posted on Friday, August 27, 2010 - 11:57 am: |
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For taking wheels off, I've always just used a floor jack under the muffler (front of the muffler for the front tire, rear of the muffler for the rear tire). I've got a few scraps of wood that are the right thickness to stick under the muffler to act as a jackstand. Obviously can't do both tires at the same time, but it's quick and easy. |
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