| Author | Message | ||
     Bcrawf68 |
After reading about previous posts for front end changes, I'm sure I'll get hammered, but, this one is just toooo good to ignore. Lately, since, like yours, my bike runs so well, I've started fine tuning the chassis. Specifically, the inside hand grip exerts too much pressure going through corners, also, it's difficult for me to slowly do u-turns in front of oncoming traffic, so I decided it was time to move the forks down in the triple clamps. I measured the amount of stanchion tube above the top clamp and then pushed the tubes down until half as much stuck out. This raised the front end slightly, taking some pressure off of my wrists. Also, the bike now goes around corners easier and with a LOT MORE confidence. Finally, she became even more wheelie prone coming out of corners. I solved this with a teeny bit more rebound. One last thing. If you have done something like this, perhaps you could discuss your findings on this thread. Please, let's keep this on a positive note. | ||
| M1combat |
I found that running 28F/30R with the tire pressures seems to have the effect of removing most of the inside bar pressure for me. Of note... I run Metzeler M3's. If you're running a tire that has a bit flatter profile on the rear you may need to go to 3lbs difference instead of two, but then oversteer may be a bit more of an issue (but oversteer is fun  ). I'm very much against doing things that make the front light/lighter coming out of turns (accept getting on the throttle ). It means you can't get on the throttle as early/hard as the bike has a bit more tendency to run wide in the higher gears and a bit of (because it really doesn't start with any) tendency to wiggle coming out of second gear corners. Both are bad mojo. You can't really adjust that out with damper settings. You can adjust how quickly it starts to run wide, or how long you'll need to be on the throttle before the front gets light but you can't stop it. The acceleration is going to lift the front in that amount of time. You'll end up using more lean angle coming out of turns. That's bad because you want to use lean angle for speed AND to keep the bike on line. Not JUST to keep the bike on line. The proper cure for too much inside bar pressure on a Buell? Lean your body into the turn more or actually hang your ass off the bike while keeping your spine aligned with the bikes lean angle (or both ). That will absolutely solve the issue and is the correct solution... Even with Dunlop D207's. Back when the Buells came with D207's people lamented the fact that they would stand up under braking, that the pressure required on the inside bar was too much, that they were unstable because of it etc... Hang off the bike and all of those problems disappear. You need to ride the bike like it was designed to be ridden. It does indeed have radical geometry (which you have mitigated somewhat) but if you wrap your head around that and do what it wants you to it will reward you with blistering mid-corner speed, total stability and a tenacious and almost telepathic ability to stay on and/or go to your chosen line at any point in the turn. Heck... I've bottomed mine and jumped mine with a lot of lean angle and nary a wiggle. That said ... There ARE a few benefits to doing what you did (but not worth the tradeoff IMO)... The bike should stop a TAD shorter, and the bars will feel a bit lighter under HEAVY braking. It will feel like turn in is easier because the effort will be lower, but the distance you need to countersteer at entry will increase, so it's a wash there (or you can turn in earlier or faster but that's not really a good bandaid either). You have essentially traded some exit handling for some entry handling in an effort to make the bike feel more stable mid-turn as I see it, and I think you could have done it in a way that wouldn't cost as much. That said . It's a street bike and as long as it's safe you should probably set it up to appease your preferences . | ||
| Ducxl |
Specifically, the inside hand grip exerts too much pressure going through corners, That indicates to me you exert too much "Countersteer".I've relaxed my grip lately on my XB and lean more with the bike for more effortless cornering.I think too much "countersteer" can lead to the dreaded "highside". Be careful messing with the attitude(geometries) of the bike.It can lead to dangerous instability. Keep up the good work,glad your bike runs well and you can concentrate on "set-up". | ||
| Black_snowman |
hang your ass off the bike while keeping your spine aligned with the bikes lean angle (or both ) I'll add, keep your body tucked in so your forearms are perpendicular to the rotation of the bars so that you're pushing straight on them and not down on them. This gives you a lot more leverage and effectively lowers the effort needed. Suddenly that "too heavy" becomes something that allows you to more finely tune your counter steering. I didn't notice how badly I was doing it wrong until I got an SV650S to be a track bike and noticed how much lighter the steering was. I looked at my technique and realized I was too upright and I was pushing down on the bars and not just pushing them forward. | ||
| Slypiranna |
Smokin' info guys! More?!!!!! | ||
| Clarkjw |
Elbows down and bent. | ||
| Bcrawf68 |
M1combat - My bike doesn't wiggle coming out or going into corners. It's just that I have to apply so much pressure on the inside bar that it makes the ride less enjoyable. On another note, now that I moved the fork tubes, it steers much more neutral through fast, bumpy corners (freeway interconnects). Also, front wheel slides are more neutral than before. That is, I can push the bike to it's limits easier. As I said, there is a small tendency to wheelie more coming out of slower corners. I think it's because of the newfound torque from the reflash. Still, I was wondering if anyone else has tried moving their fork tubes to get a more neutral effort. | ||
| Rsh |
Your setup is along the lines of what Sport Rider magazine did, except they set the fork tubes flush with the triple clamps. Front: Spring Preload: 12 Turns out from full stiff Rebound: 3 Turns out from full stiff Compression: 2 Turns out from full stiff Set fork tubes flush with triple clamps Rear: Spring Preload: Position 5 from full soft Rebound: 4 Turns out from full stiff Compression: 20 Clicks from full stiff | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Your setup is along the lines of what Sport Rider magazine did, except they set the fork tubes flush with the triple clamps. Front: Spring Preload: 12 Turns out from full stiff Rebound: 3 Turns out from full stiff Compression: 2 Turns out from full stiff Set fork tubes flush with triple clamps Rear: Spring Preload: Position 5 from full soft Rebound: 4 Turns out from full stiff Compression: 20 Clicks from full stiff Rider weight? | ||
| M1combat |
It's good that it doesn't wiggle... but with a more aggressive geometry the bike will turn a smaller radius (on the power) at the same lean angle. it won't be much , but it'll be there. If you were to go out and do 100 laps on your favorite local race track and then make that modification you would notice it right away. It makes no difference though . Try taking it back to where it was and then carefully take a turn while leaning/hanging off the bike. That will solve the problem. If you don't have practice hanging off then maybe your solution is better, but I can pretty well guarantee you that hanging off will solve the bar pressure thing. It did for me anyhow . I think that Sport Rider were a bit put off that the Buell works "differently" than the rest of the ducks and UJMs. They were taking steps to make it feel like your standard motorcycle. It's really a dis-service IMO. | ||
| M1combat |
One more thing... Did you make sure it was setup properly in the first place? |
