| Author | Message | ||
     Reuel |
Wish I had the link. Someone got those and did dyno runs with and without it. It was a V-Twin HD. There were almost no changes. Just a few spots where the power was slightly lower with the cones. I believe he had straight pipes. | ||
| Robi |
Hey, being irresponsible again. I noticed the grommet and spacer are missing on one side of the front of the muffler. I ordered new spacer and grommet, and the inside spacer just in case. I picked them up today. I am irresponsible, because I ordered the parts before reading the svc manual. HD closes at 6pm, and the one closest to me isn't open on the weekend. QUESTIONS: 1. do I need to take the whole muffler off? 2. If I do, do I need to get a new gasket? | ||
| Davieblast |
hey guys. New to the forum and just have some questions about my stock 2006 blast. I just bought Jardine exhaust and K&N filter. Im a simple guy who can do basic work on the bike so please bare with me. I was wondering what jet setting will be best for this setup? Also I have read on here about shaving some needle or turning a air screw a couple times. Do I need to do these things? I have never worked on a carb and the only thing I know how to change is the jets because I found a website with pictures and instructions. Please, any information would help. Thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
Robi - no Davie - see the carb section - it explains it all at the top of the page. Do not use their supplied lower front hardware, use the stock, if the stock looks shot, get new hardware and use that - it will prolong the life of your Jardine. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
$1,200 for a stock Blast exhaust??? Is this right? My exhaust needs to be replaced and I was just going to replace with a stock system until I heard this price. Which if this is the case I think I'll go with a Jardine and a quiet core for $250 + $40 for the quiet core insert. I'm also curious if someone could explain how an exhaust for a $4,795(2009 MSRP) bike could go for $1,200? Sorry if this has been covered already. I did some searching and all I could find was info on the aftermarket and pro series exhausts. | ||
| Reuel |
Looks like someone added an extra zero to the price! | ||
| Dummkauf |
that's kinda what I said....does anyone here know what the going rate for a stock exhaust for a 2001 Blast is? | ||
| Ezblast |
All stock Blast exhausts are the same. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
I was referring to the price of a stock exhaust for the Blast? I'm gonna do some calling around tomorrow, but I was curious if anyone knows what the price should be? Can't seem to find any stock exhausts for sale online eiter | ||
| Ezblast |
I mentioned that in case you wanted to hit Ebay. Chicago HD gives 20% off internet orders - all you need is the stock number. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
Don't suppose you know the part number? or where I can find a parts catalog? | ||
| Ezblast |
PM'd | ||
| Robi |
Don't know if I've been on here long enough to welcome newcomers, but welcome Davie. These people are the best. I'm very, very, mechanically green, but I'm amazed of what I've accomplished so far. But none of it would have been possible without the folks on this website. QUESTIONS: The service manual calls for one gasket and one retaining ring (#1 and #2, Figure 2-93, pages 2-53 and 2-54, of the svc man - 98 and 100 of the PDF file). I found the pictures here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/disc us.cgi?pg=prev&topic=20164&page=218979 From the picture, is the flat metal ring with the split the retaining ring? And the metal mesh thing the gasket? EZ, did you said NO to the need to replace the gasket? | ||
| Wardo |
Heres an interesting question. I opened up my air filter box yesterday and found a tan liquid. There wasnt a lot of it, but i have no idea what it is. Anybody have a guess? | ||
| Robi |
I had that when I first got my bike used and did all the new purchase maintenance. I haven't seen it again, nor do I know what it is. I'm curious too though. | ||
| Dummkauf |
Wardo - It's probably oil. If the bike gets over filled it will kick some oil back out through the air filter. I think EZ answered this same question for me when I ran into the same thing so correct me if I'm wrong EZ. | ||
| Wardo |
Sounds about right. It was my first time adding oil and i may have gone a tad over. I just wanted to be sure it wasnt something HUGE. Thanks for the quick response. Back to shopping for a new intake. Anybody recommend something good that is easy to order online or at an auto store? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Oil and water since the crankcase vents into the airbox. Normal! It has nothing to do with overfilling. (Message edited by GearheadErikO on October 13, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"From the picture, is the flat metal ring with the split the retaining ring? And the metal mesh thing the gasket?" Yes. And you can get away with using the old gasket (as long as you didnt pull it out-then its probably toast). | ||
| Robi |
I tugged at it with my finger to see what it was, if it was loose, etc. I pulled about 1/2 inch off of single metal string out. Figured that's not what should be happening, so I left it alone. | ||
| Robi |
I ended up replacing 1 front grommet, the front inner spacer (old was messed up bad), front bolt (old was warped) and the 2 washers on the front and 2 on the back. At the front, the bottom of the engine is actually dug in a little where the front bracket has been over torqued. Therefore, the grommet on the Left side is being pushed further than flush, and the grommet on the right side is therefore being pushed out (because the left is not stopping where it normally would). I debated taking the whole thing back off and letting it sit, but I wanted to ride (hopefully I don't get rained on), so I didn't torque it to spec, otherwise I think I would have just destroyed the grommet on the left side where it meets the gouge. I would like it to sit flush. I was thinking about flattening out the gouge at where the front bracket has dug in with JB Weld. Will the JB Weld tolerate the heat down there? Is this a viable fix (bandaid)? | ||
| Robi |
Here are pics of what I'm referring to:   | ||
| Robi |
If the exhaust doesn't seat well to the engine, and air gets in, does that create back firing? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, that can create backfiring. My experience has been that it has to be pretty loose for that to happen, but it can. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Robi, not quite sure what you mean about the grommet and such. From what I remember the bolt can only tighten so much until its stopped by the spacer. JB Weld probably wouldnt hold up and I'm not sure there's anything to fix?! Looks like your missing the other (left side) grommet. | ||
| Robi |
Gear When I took the exhaust off, it seemed like there was some wear and tear at the jug. In other words, it looks like where the exhaust meets the jug wouldn't be a perfect hand in glove fit. I also did not replace the gasket. I tightened it to spec, and nothings moving. I am on the motor mount thread and per EZ I need to replace my front isolator. When I take the exhaust off to do this, I will be putting a new gasket in to be safe. I think I'll get some new nuts. Mine are fine, just rusted (the nuts on the bike). If you think that's unnecessary, then I'll be happy to save the money. If you think new, then my next question is: Should I get the nuts from the dealer per part number? The picture: If you look at the far side of the picture (right side of bike), see the vertical grey edge of the motor? That black arch just to the left of it, that's the right grommet. It's being pushed out because the left grommet is pushing the spacer further than it would had the metal not been dug out. If you look near side of picture (head of bolt), just above the 12 o'clock of the bolt, you can see the black of the grommet folding over the exhaust bracket. At 10 or 11 o'clock where th bracket meets the grey of the engine, you can see a notch where torquing has cut into the engine. Instead of that flat collar portion of the grommet sitting flush with the engine, it's getting pushed further, which is pushing the other grommet out the right side. I couldnl't tighten this to spec, because it wants to tear the grommet up. I had to bound the bracket out because it was bent in. I tried to slide a washer in there, but no room, I'd need to tap it out a little more. I didn't feel like doing that. I think when I have it off this time, I will try to slide a washer in there for the grommet to sit against. | ||
| Robi |
When we refer to left and right side of the bikes, it's right or left when riding, not when looking head onto it right? Is port and starboard uncalled for? | ||
| Ezblast |
Correct! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Robi, to do the front isolator you do not have to remove the exhaust. Also, do not remove the "DO NOT REMOVE" bracket to replace the isolator. The "DO NOT REMOVE" bracket should only be removed if you need to replace a broken bolt, bracket or cylinder head. And yes I will show you how to replace the isolator, it can be done in less than an hour. (Message edited by swampy on October 17, 2008) | ||
| Robi |
How come the manual tells you to remove the muffler? Is it because you will be supporting the engine and they don't want you to support the engine by the exhaust? |
