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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through October 01, 2008 » Harley Dealer Oil Change Cost.. $91.00? « Previous Next »

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Feinstei
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On Saturday, I went to a local dealer for the 1125R's first oil change and the ECM update (Biker Bob's in Taylor, MI). I was surprised to see that the price for the oil change and filter was $91.00. Is this typical?
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you had them use Syn3 -

~35.00 for oil
~15.00 for the filter
~10.00 for "shop supplies"
and a half hour labor.

Sounds about right.

Z
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Pariah
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's the expense of synthetic motorcycle oil that's the big shock, I think...
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Jlnance
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, it's fairly typical. I think my dealers shop rate is $72/hr. If you're paying that, on top of supplies, it's expensive.

I've heard it said that changing the oil often is cheap insurance. I think that's true only if you're changing it yourself.
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Pridayr
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you look at the list of stuff on most services, there's a lot of inspect this, and inspect that... To me, part of the fun is doing the minor stuff myself. Probably not the valve service, but everything else I'll do.

Does the 1125 come with synthetic from the factory?

Rob
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Xl1200r
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No synthetic from the factory.
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>No synthetic from the factory

I don't think this is right. Certainly, the manual specifies Screamin' Eagle Fully Synthetic as the first choice oil.
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Mikellyjo
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I always heard that most vehicles come with standard oil from the factory for help with engine breaking. I don't know if I buy into that philosophy anymore with how well the machining process has come along in the past years.

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Dirty_john
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

apparently the wisdom here in the UK is that synthetic oils prevent the wearing in of the components, especially the rings to bore contact surfaces.
My 2009 1125R is due in to arrive in uk in about one months time and I was going to change the oil at 50, 150 and 250 miles, my local dealer has suggested that the bike comes from the factory with syn 3 but I have my doubts. Oil is cheap engines aren't and I expect this bike to last many years.
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Boltrider
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've heard about staying away from synthetic during break-in also, but it says on the back of the Harley Syn bottle that it is not detrimental to engine break-in.
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Pridayr
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm going back to my good buddy Amsoil after 1K.

R
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Odinbueller
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All H-D & Buell models (except for the Screamin' Eagle models) ship with the standard H-D 360 SAE 20W50. Syn3 is recommended in the manual for best cold weather starting.
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Redscuell
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Curiously I had run across this site http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm about a week ago; and I can see a certain amount of logic in its author's premise. Have a look-see and see what you think of his premise.
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Dalton_gang
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"going to change the oil at 50, 150 and 250 miles"


Why??!!

I can understand wanting to change it a little early but why be so extreme?

I changed mine @ 750 miles (dealer didn`t have filters until then) and am planning on changing it for the 2nd time in a week or two when I hit 5500 miles.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Curiously I had run across this site http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm about a week ago; and I can see a certain amount of logic in its author's premise. Have a look-see and see what you think of his premise.

May work, may not work. Question is do you want to trust your bike to something randomly found on the internet or to the manufacturer of your motorcycle. Also, there might be warranty ramifications...there once was a suggestion here that there might be a deep dark place where RPM is stored during the breakin miles. NOt sure, but it certainly wouldn't be hard for B}MC to do such a thing.
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Pariah
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the only reason you would NOT want to use synthetic is in an older engine that's been using conventional oil for a long time... the synthetic oil can remove gunk that makes leaks apparent (the synthetic does not cause problems, only makes existing problems more evident).

Maybe until things are seated, a conventional oil is less likely to leak in a new engine. But I would think with today's modern engine and manufacturing tolerances this first-use of conventional oil is ancient wisdom that no longer applies (but can't hurt).
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I changed my oil the first time at 500 miles. It was black.
Every change since, the oil has been dark, but clear.
At 620 and 6200, the magnet-plug only had a trace of powder.

At 500 (#1) and 12.4k(3rd service, bad cam) there was a lot of black powder. No metallic or any silver.

The break-in definitely wore down surfaces and still needs the less-lubricious Dino-oil.
Since the second change at 620 miles, she's had Syn3.
This time, at 12.4 I switched to Red Line 10w40.

Seems no noisier and a little quicker to rev.

Z
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