| Author | Message | ||
     Wpadave |
I was checking out the new 1125CR at the dealer today and it looks like the rear swing arm has spools installed right from the factory. This is a great improvement for using a rear bike stand. I hope this feature starts showing up on all the new Buells. | ||
| Slaughter |
If so, it is WAY overdue! You can buy a 10 year old Japanese bike and know that you can thread in a slider because there's a threaded boss welded right there where you need it. Just go walk around ANY sportbike sales floor. | ||
| Pridayr |
True that. Also kind of a built in, light duty slider. Rob | ||
| Redscuell |
Searching for a rear stand supplier for the 09s, which now have spools for a stand on the rear swingarm, I received the following from Andersons here in Oz: "Red, There are 2 bits of information I will need before I can say whether the stand will fit the Buell. 1) the diameter of the groove in the pick up knob. 2) the width from the groove on one side, to the groove on the other side of the bike. (give or take about 5mm). Cheers, Chris Anderson CBA Engineering, 12/1 Stonny Batter Rd, Minto 2566 Australia" Would anyone with access to an 09 R or CR provide this info in this thread, and I'll pass it along to Andersons and then back to the list with his answer? Which should be of benefit to us all. Cheers. | ||
| Redscuell |
Wow, I expected more interest in this thread than it has received!  Never mind, here's some new info from Pitbull: "Hi Red: So Mr. Buell finally . . . added spools to the Buell. Yes, our stands should work fine. Thanks. Charlie V."  | ||
| Boudrx79 |
I have waited for this thread 2 pop up, so has anyone thought of the crash factor? & what will need to be done to replace the welded spools? That is the the big reason ricers have removeable spools and not permentally attached spools. A great Buell upgrade, but once again poor foresight. I did the removeable spool upgrade last month, a friend welded a short arm on both sides with 8mm spool holder. Just copied my 06 gsxr1000 setup. jus my .02 boudrx | ||
| Oddball |
 | ||
| Badlionsfan |
I wish they'd just put the Dark Horse Moto axle sliders with the stand groove on at the factory. Would look better and be a cheaper fix. You snap that thing welded on the swing arm off, say hello to a new swing arm. No thanks, I think I'll just spend the few bucks for the sliders from dark horse for my 08, when I get a few bucks. (Message edited by badlionsfan on September 23, 2008) | ||
| Oddball |
How is that any weaker than the spools on competing cycles? I'd really like to hear it. How is it anymore permanently attached?Looks to me like the ends should be replaceable and function as sliders should the unfortunate happen. Is it the length of the mounting stubs stick out? Do you fear enough force to bend/snap them? I suppose that's possible but so many other parts will be grinding away on the pavement at that point. I'm certainly one to call faults but I fail to see where this is more than a minor one at best. You need someone with an '09 to take some detailed photos of it. Then you can better gauge strength and replaceability. GSXR  CBR  | ||
| No_rice |
wish they'd just put the Dark Horse Moto axle sliders with the stand groove on at the factory i like the dark horse stuff, even though i have yet to plunk the money down on some.(i need to) but i doubt i will go for the ones with the built in stand groove as i just dont see how it will help me. if my bike is going on a set of stands, odds are its usually because i need to take the wheels off. although if you were putting tire warmers on alot i could see how it would benefit you. but then you would still need a different place to put the stand when you are changing tires. i will probably just invest in a set of their regular sliders, but who knows. | ||
| Xl1200r |
+1 No-rice - the Dark Horse Moto sliders are super nice and very good solution for the XBs and '08 1125's, but if my bike is going to be on a stand I want to be able to take the rear wheel off it. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
So I can't figure it out...is the Buell spool on the CR removeable/replaceable? Or is it a permanent piece of the swingarm? | ||
| Badlionsfan |
Didn't think about the tire changing aspect, I was thinking more about checking the oil lol. | ||
| No_rice |
I was thinking more about checking the oil lol. i hadnt thought about that, that would be a HUGE benefit, lol | ||
| Fresnobuell |
You can't check the oil on a rear stand. I has to be level. As far as I can tell this bike is ultra sensitive to any deviation from the recommended procedure (and sometime you get wacky results using the recommended procedure!) | ||
| Pridayr |
Has anybody tried something like this? Verify the correct oil level. Put the bike in the side stand. Check the level again, and mark wherever it lands on the stick. Rob | ||
| No_rice |
on a front and rear stand doesnt the bike sit pretty level though? i assume if someone has a rear they usually have a front. but what do i know i dont have either! | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I just cold check it now. Once you change the oil, add somewhere between 2.7 and 3.0 quarts & cold check it the next morning, you should have a good idea where the "proper" level on the stick is. Piece of cake after that... | ||
| Redscuell |
"You can't check the oil on a rear stand. It has to be level. As far as I can tell this bike is ultra sensitive to any deviation from the recommended procedure."  Caveat #1: I haven't yet received my own 1125r, so my comments are as a bikie-slash-industrial designer. But I have read the oil-checking methodology on the Forum site, and see that there are at least 2 weaknesses in the bike truly being level during an oil check anyway.  1. Just how level is the surface that the bike is on, really? Given that paved surfaces are sloped for water drainage anyway, just how many of us are going to check for a truly level surface?  2. The bike is to be manually held vertically, because there is no centre stand. So without using an inclinometer (which I do), just how vertical is the bike, really, anyway?  So if the 1125r is genuinely that finicky about oil checks, then I would 1. compensate for any out-of-level of my paved surface (bit of timber under one tyre or the other, for example, assuming they're properly inflated), while using my $20 inclinometer to verify that the bike's actually vertical. 2. Verify the horizontal with my laser level ($25 to $250, which I use for home renovation projects anyway) using the axle centres as the baseline; both wheels are same diameter. 3. pop the bike up on its new rear stand, then recheck horizontal (laser) and vertical (inclinometer), and then reshim the surface as necessary. 4. And then use this same spot in my carport to check my oil level on the rear stand every time! After initial setup of the surface, should be easy and accurate every time after that.  } | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Redscuell-- From my experience with a certain brand of stand, there was a significant slope from back to front--so you are screwed if your garage happens to be level. See my aforementioned post about the cold check. Once you know the right level cold, it takes seconds to check it before any ride...and I venture to say it's a bit easier than your proposed method....I think you are joking, right? | ||
| Redscuell |
Fresnobuell, I reckon I'll go back to lurking if that's the best response someone can offer to ideas that compete with their own!  | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Red--From your analysis, how does the bike ever get level if you don't use a front stand? You can add all the shims you want on the rear, but if you don't elevate the front, then the back can only get worse in relation to the front. See my cold check method. |
