| Author | Message | ||
     Thunderbolter97 |
JM, i'm confused, you said you had a 27 tooth to sell, but in the latest post your speaking of a 26. I'm sure a 27 would be fine for my riding, and as I said I will buy it as long as it'll fit without changing the belt. Let me know how to arrange purchasing. TB97 | ||
| Jmartz |
TB: I replaced the factory 27 by an aftermarket 26. In my case the 26 did not move the rear tire backward any significant amount. I am not sure is Buell uses different belts for the X1 and S3/M2 series of bikes. Ping me of line to talk about it and address exchange. | ||
| Aaron |
It's all the same belt, 40022-91, 128 teeth. Even the international bikes use the same belt. | ||
| Geofg |
Re: Split along length of xb9r belt: Dealer found a rock under the belt, and said the integrity has not been affected. Pretty cool, Geof | ||
| Blake |
If it were me, I'd at least want to start packing a spare belt on long rides. How can the dealer possibly know for sure whether or not the belt's strength and/or operational life have been compromised? | ||
| Geofg |
Yeah, I'm still a tad nervous about it, I'll admit. Keeping a spare handy is probably a good idea no matter what. Need to get the service manual, too. Though swapping out the belt doesn't sound like a total pain in the butt, I suspect it could be a chore on the side of the road. -Geof | ||
| Littledog1 |
Harley, and I suppose Buell, make an 'emergency belt'just for thes occasions. It's a belt with a wire 'master link' so you don't have to take the bike apart to install. I suspect it won't last a long time, but it should get you to a shop. The down side is it lists for about $95.00! Mickey | ||
| X1glider |
You shouldn't need a spliceable emergency belt on the XB as the swingarm has a removeable section and the drive pulley cover can be removed to facilitate replacement. Just need to relieve tension on the idler and slide it on. | ||
| Blake |
I think the XB9 belt is easy to replace. The rear isolators are inboard of the belt. Just loosen the rear axle, remove tensioner pulley, unbolt swingarm joint, install new belt, reassemble swingarm joint, tensioner pulley, rear axle. Done! Someone else here posted that it takes all of 30 minutes. If I owned an XB, I would probably carry a spare belt on long trips. | ||
| Roadrunr |
X1, You ever went riding and lost a belt? I did and it sucks. I dont wanna carry all those tools and a belt just in case. A spliceable belt would be sweet to have. | ||
| X1glider |
Haven't lost one yet, but I do carry a spliceable one just in case. I'm sure the infamous T-27 and a single hex socket would be all that's needed on the XB. That's not much. On a big twin, the splicer is a necessity since you would have to remove the outer primary, then change the gasket and fluid and move the rear wheel around. A separate cover on the big twins would be most welcome. I haven't found a good place to carry the lift while I'm riding. In that, I agree with you. | ||
| Redstripe |
Guys, Just broke the front-pulley of my x1 today. The damn thing just broke from it's center? Now I carry the standard European pulleys, which has, I'm told, a 29 tooth pulley up front. As You'll probably know, that's quite an overgeared pulley-set. Yet, because of my riding it pretty much, and long distances along the motorway, I'd like a 28 tooth pulley up front. I reckon it'll hoist top-speed as well as accelaration. Would any of You know if a 28 tooth pulley is obtainable in Europe? Which manufacturer produces them? What should be the costs? Will I get into trouble with the freeplay of the casting in which the swinger mounts? -it's already dragging the belt over it every now-and-then- Will a pulley from this different manufacturer last? I'd sure hate the knowledge, in the back of my mind, it would be able to break again... Thanks, Jilles. | ||
| Blake |
Jilles, You might have more luck finding a 27 tooth front pulley as that is standard on the domestic bikes. I can't imagine one tooth making a very noticeable difference, you are looking at only a 1/28=3.6% reduction in overall drive ratio. Even with a two tooth reduction, your rear axle adjuster will only need to accommodate another 5mm or so of extension. You will need to adjust the belt tension/slack with the new front sprocket. The failures can stem from a too loosely tightened nut. They need to be extremely tight. I think the spec is something like 50 FT-LBs plus 30o to 45o additional tightening. That is TIGHT!!! If the belt rubbing happens rarely, I wouldn't worry about it. You might recheck suspension settings to ensure you have enough preload and compression damping. Also check belt tension for excessive slack. Good luck! | ||
| Redstripe |
Thanks Blake, The problem is indeed the retension plate/nut problem mentioned in the x1 files. The pulley worked itself outwards, after which the splines of the axle worked their way through the pulley itself. Luckily the axle itself is completely undamaged. So that'll be a new 27 tooth pulley, I'll inquire at Charleys' which retension plate to use... -not to work itself loose again- Jilles. | ||
| Blake |
And make darn sure it gets torqued properly. | ||
| Redstripe |
Think I'll fit it with the infamous? Jims' mega nut. This nut incorporates the flange through which it's secured to the pulley itself. Then mounting it with the proper torque and Loctite must secure it as should be? While I'm at it, I'll probably order a nice aluminium pulley cover to go with it... Hope the 27 tooth pulley'll bring the performance I'm looking for, upping things a bit.  Jilles. | ||
| Spiderman |
quote: _____________________________________________ If I owned an XB, I would probably carry a spare belt on long trips. _____________________________________________ But how would you carry it. You can not fold it or you will break the kevlar cords. This is not a belt for a snowmobile here. They send them in those boxes for a reason. One dealer complained to H-D that every belt that was sent to them broke. H-D asked them how they were storing them. Came to find out they were doubling them up to save space. And cured there belt problem | ||
| Loganr |
Hey, guys, I'm changing from a 29 to a 27 tooth front pulley. Any secrets for getting that darn thing off? I have the socket (1 7/8) and have everything off, but just can't get the main nut loose. I know it's a lefty, so to loosen it you go clockwise, but I couldn't get it off w/o using what I thought was too much force for the drive shaft to take. Is there a trick to it? | ||
| Aaron |
Air impact wrench. | ||
| Spiderman |
Yeah impact is the only way to go I tried everything even using and old belt and a friend holding it after 1/2 hour of that i went over my friends and got the compresor and gun. Don't forget about those reverse threads. | ||
| Loganr |
Air inpact wrench it was. Tried prybar and heating up the nut and everything. Air impact wrench took it off in about 30 seconds. I've gotta get one for my house... | ||
| Redstripe |
Randy, Took a look at Your profile, but wasn't able to make out wether You have an x1 or different; -The x1 with a Euro spec. rear-pulley can't be combined with a 27 teeth front-pulley, You'll run out of adjustment in this swingarm!!!- Blake; Jim's recommends a torque of 110-120 Ft/Lbs. If holes of the Mega-nut do not yet line up with the holes in the pulley, They're recommending tightening it somewhat further, not exceeding 150 Ft/Lbs. That is tight... Jilles. | ||
| Peter |
That's interesting. It worked fine on my M2. PPiA | ||
| Redstripe |
I know. That's what Charley told me, 'cept it didn't work on my x1. Hell, back to 29 then... How's the bike, Pete? | ||
| Redstripe |
Gentlemen, Would any of You happen to know wether the belt tension is to be adjusted accordingly WITHOUT having that special tension-spring-adjustment type of device dealers use? Be nice to know if the tension is OK since replacing the front-pulley... Anyways, here's how the Mega-nut and LSL pulley cover turned out; \image {pulley-cover and Jims' M-n} | ||
| Redstripe |
 | ||
| Redstripe |
Strange...I'm not always prompted to browse for the pic? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Dusty Rhodes over on the Buell yahoogroups list suggested loosening the belt until you can twist it 90 degrees (in neutral of course). After spending WAY too much time fussing with tie down straps and jack stands and whatnot to make sure I still have slack at the longest swingarm extension, Dusty's approach works better and is FAR easier. It may put it just a little on the loose side, but I don't think that is much of a liability. | ||
| Buellfan |
If you twist the belt 90 deg. you have just shortened it's life considerably. The belt cords are designed to only do one thing and that's pure tension (as in driving the bike down the road). Bending any other direction is very bad. | ||
| Reepicheep |
So you are saying that if I reach down with my thumb and forefinger, and apply less then 5 pounds of pressure with less then 1 inch of leverage, and try and rotate the middle of the bottom run of belt, that I am somehow destroying the structural integrity of a kevlar belt? To quote rocky and bullwinkle... "Wow! Don't know my own strength!". Maybe my description could be clearer. With the bike unloaded, reach down with thumb and forefinger, and see if you can rotate the middle of the bottom run of the belt by about 90 degrees. If you can rotate it about 90 degrees, it is more then loose enough that it will not bind up during any point of suspension travel. I was not suggesting throwing a wrench on it or anything. |
