| Author | Message | ||
     Jmr1283 |
Im at 340miles. and i followed my break in up to this point somewhat on the dot. i did go over 6k. some times (not alot maybe a handlful)but only for short burst. never over 8-9k. but i have been trying to wheely alot and ive been coming on to it to get it into a wheely so like 4k id come on to it. well closer to 5. then not much past 6 once i made 300 i am a little harder on it. any way so today at break i notice the bike didnt really come up as easy as it has(just sped up). i cant really wheely yet but ive been trying to so its more just getting the front up. so it just seems today its lost some power. itll accelerate fine but its hard for me to tell because there isnt anything to guage it to. but with the wheelies i can notice better. am i being paraniod? what did other people do for there first 350 miles. | ||
| Pridayr |
O.K. Flame ON!  Rob | ||
| Pridayr |
http://raceology.com/2005/03/piston-ring-welding.h tml Well, Maybe you're on to something....? R | ||
| Slypiranna |
Have you eliminated the driveline? Jack up the rear and spin the wheel by hand. Is the rear brake dragging? I've had this happen more than once and it kills acceleration. Just a thought. mm | ||
| 01xjbuell |
pounded my bike from minute 1 of having it. Saw red line first time down the highway. Yes, flame me all you want, my bike is seeing 105/105 for my values so I didn't "hurt" it that much. You may just be getting "used" to the acceleration, so it seems less for you. nick | ||
| Jmr1283 |
well i did some scientific research, and it seems if u add this equation. a+b=c a=me, b =time, and c being not enough power to compansate for me getting used to the bike. lol | ||
| Miko_k |
Was it hot outside the day that you couldn't get it to wheelie? | ||
| Spectrum |
Another possibility is check your air cleaner. I've noticed the ram air system on this bike likes to scope up lots of trash. I take my air cleaner off and vacuum out the filter every time I change the oil. Lots of dead insects and leaf accumulation and the bike runs a lot stronger when it's cleaned. | ||
| Jmr1283 |
well i can do a wheely just fine, i think i was just used to the throttle some. and i wasnt pulling harder enough. or i thought i didnt use to use that much throttle. but itll come up fine in first. itll come up in second but im not that good yet with wheelies to do it like first. thanks for the help guys. o yah and the brake lever $ oh i did have a miss hap today bike went over and i have to replace the pod cover thats glossy, and the flat intake part. also the clutch/tranny puck too. not a big deal. the part that does suck is it scraped the engine rate under the puck. not much but if u look u can see it. so a quick ? for yah guys. i know how much the pod cover is 55 bucks but does that only include the glossy cover, if so how much is the flat black part? also how do u replace the puck. and can u replace just the plastic puck? or the hole cover. i wouldnt mind eventually replacing the cover since its scraped. thanks again. | ||
| Krassh |
It comes as all one piece. | ||
| Jmr1283 |
nice. buell parts are cheap. gotta love it. know much about the clutch/trany covers plastic puck? | ||
| Krassh |
Might want to think about replacing the whole clutch cover. They redesigned the entire cover due to some leaks as well as that puck. The new puck actually has a steel backing now and is heavy duty. You should not have to worry about replacing again on a low side again. I had a low side and had to replace mine. It was ground down pretty good. | ||
| Jmr1283 |
how much cash did u have to put out for that cover? | ||
| Jmr1283 |
how much did the cover set u back> if u dont mind | ||
| Krassh |
Here is what I posted in this thread. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/385216.html?1218524084 R1029A.1AM is the new part number for the re-designed clutch cover. The new one instead of an all plastic puck that snaps in the center the new one has a larger puck that snaps over the outside plus it metal inside so in the future will not grind down the clutch cover. List price on my invoice was 317.59 after discount it was 285.83. Right pod cover is part number M1035.1AMMW. List price was 55.99 after discount 50.39. I had not had my 5th gear oiling recall done yet so I had them swap out to the new cover while doing the recall so it did not cost me anything to have them change it out. The kit comes with the clutch cover, puck, o-ring and pegasus logo for the puck. You will have to re-use the 1125R placard or buy a new one. I got lucky between the pod cover in front and the chase harper bags in the back I did not have any damage to my swingarm or forks and did not have sliders. And if you do it yourself you will need a tool like this. Recommend a service manual as well.  | ||
| Jmr1283 |
nice info. i really appriciate ur time putting this together for me. ill make sure when i order it ill get the redesigned one. i really need to get some heated grips. so i might wait to fix the cosmetic in early winter. its already getting 40 degrees in the morning so the heated grips are a must. I wonder if i can get a used uly right side switch housing on here. well thanks krassh | ||
| Bigdog_tim |
Josh - I installed the Buell heated grips. I believe they are the same as what comes on the Uly. They are AWESOME! I wore summer gloves this AM (temps were 42 when I left the house) and my hands stayed toasty warm - to the point I had to turn off the grips half way to work. | ||
| Krassh |
Save you self some money. Order the switch deal with the heater controls on it from Al Lighton at American SportBike. http://www.americansportbike.com/ Also he has heater elements in stock that are better and less expensive than the ones Buell sells. Plus I believe the other benefit is you can put what ever grips you want on it or something. Can't really remember I know it is a much deal. All combined it is way cheaper than the stock heaters and the switch unit he sells is the Buell one that is in the kit. Al is a sponsor here so check it out. (Message edited by krassh on September 18, 2008) (Message edited by krassh on September 18, 2008) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Not to cut anything from Al, but the Buell grips, at 278 or whatever, were worth it in my eyes. A total OEM install and look. The only hard part was drilling a hole in the bars. tough stuff, broke 2 bits... Z | ||
| Jmr1283 |
in Als kits u use the uly switch housing. so i wanted to find a used one for less cash. the hole package from al is 100 bucks or close to it. but if i could find the switch housing i might save 20-30 bucks. the buell kit is 180, and yes krassh with als set up u can use what ever grips u want. oem u can not. i talked to al today so he gave me the down low. Tim- see now this is music to my ears. thats what i was hoping for. now i wont be depressed every day at lunch nowing i dont have a fun ride home. well heres to winter riding  | ||
| Krassh |
The switch gear is Buell OEM that he sells with just a different element. SO still the OEM look. | ||
| Pridayr |
Well, WRT the heated grip thing, I'm thinking about that myself. Here in S Texas it's really starting to get chilly. It was like 70 this morning. I had to break out my leathers... Pretty soon it may be down in the 50's. BTW, I've heard people talk about "riding season", and "putting her up for the winter"... What's that all about?   Rob | ||
| Zac4mac |
Not real sure, the only thing that keeps Loretta in the garage is ice(or a bad cam  ). Our roads clear pretty quick after a snow up here. I had a 20 minute ride last Feb that was 14˚F, clutch fingers were cold... Z | ||
| Xl1200r |
You have to drill holes in the bars to install the Buell heated grips??? | ||
| Zac4mac |
The left grip is screwed to the bar so it won't come off. The controls also have a locator tab that fits a hole in the bars. I move my controls out a half inch in the summer and back in for the winter. More holes... Z | ||
| Xl1200r |
What's the point of moving them? And am I understanding that you don't need to drill these new holes? | ||
| Zac4mac |
For the Buell grips, you have to drill a hole so you can screw the left grip to the bar. I assume that is so the grip doesn't rotate and pull on the wire. I move my controls and grips in as close as I can in the winter where the air is calm and warmer. When the weather warms up, I move them out as far as I can to hit some cooler, more turbulent air. Doing this requires extra holes for the controls to index at each position. Zack  |
