| Author | Message | ||
     Frausty12r |
I hate to open up yet another VR/Stator thread, but I've gotten some insight from a buddy who's a good tech, but he's 140 miles away and can't look at it first hand. So here's my problem(s): Stator check @ connector [46] : 0 continuity to ground on all three legs .2 ohms from p1 to p2, p2 to p3 and p1 to p3 ~37 VAC at roughly 2k rpm No burnt electrical smell in primary and no particulates in primary lubricant Voltage @ battery 12.8v ignition off 12.1v ignition on - engine off 11.7v ignition on - engine idling/any rpm voltage check between negative battery terminal, and ground cable (disconnected with voltmeter measuring for voltage drop) Key on - shows 7 volts. When I disconnect the voltage regulator @ connector [77] , I get 12v (which it should be I would think) Also the positive side of this connector on the main wire harness side (female side), is a bit charred/melted. Thus I would think the stator to be ok, and the V.R. is toasted/shorted and eating 5volts and who knows how many amps when system is attempting to charge.(I sure hope it its just the V.R., but I don't want to just replace regulator only to have a bad stator toast it in 25 mins.) Any ideas? Things I could check to ensure the V.R. is shot? Rick informed me his stator went bad, but it only shorted when it got hot. Ugh, I just spent like 800$ on stands and tires, only to have a hellatious charging issue. Help?... please?... Thanks! Ryan | ||
| Rsh |
The last time I had a charging problem it was caused by the #77 connector. My connector was also melted on the main wire harness side, mine was the black wire (ground). I initially used an xacto knife to remove all the excess melted plastic residue that melted on the terminals, then made sure the terminals had a proper connection. I then started the bike and checked the voltages at the battery and all was good again. Some people here have removed the #77 connector and hardwired the connection. I found the connectors are available from Buell and replaced mine, I also added a routine check of the ground connections when I do an oil change and have not had a problem since. Look closely at the #77 connector and make sure you have a good connection. | ||
| Frausty12r |
it's a little late now, I've ripped the guts out of the voltage regulator to find 2 capacitors dead one rated at 33mfd and one at 12mfd. both are in the nfd range. The connection at connector 77 had to have been good as I mentioned there was a 5v drop when the regulator was connected in the circuit, and 0 voltage drop when it was removed. I believe one or more of the 12v regulators in the series array on the regulator board where shorted to ground, and were probably destroyed when the capacitors faded. Can anyone check to see if they have voltage drop between the negative terminal of the battery, and the ground cable? (BATTERY -) - Volt meter + (ground cable) ?? | ||
| Frausty12r |
Well, since no response, I bought a new voltage regulator, and now theres only a .4v drop when in the circuit so I know it was fried. I'm still having an issue with the Check Engine lamp flashing occasionally. It only happens after ~30 mins of riding, I guess when the engine actually reaches operating temp. The fan is on, but I noticed my voltage gauge drop to a 12.5v indication about the time the C.E.L. began flashing, I got the bike home, and checked voltage on the battery while engine was running to be about 13.21 volts. It started at 14.17 before I left. Is this an indication that the stator could be intermittently failing? | ||
| Red_chili |
I would still suspect the 77 connector first. Try a thorough cleaning with contact cleaner, then assemble with dielectric grease, and see if the behavior changes. It it does you know the problem, if it doesn't you may need to look at the stator. | ||
| Lamo |
The check engine function keeps a record (history) of past fault codes I beleive can be removed with ecm spy or automatically after 50 starts of engine after fault has been repaired | ||
| Frausty12r |
:Update: I've repaired the #77 connector by solidifying this connector with marine grade 50amp butt-splices and mil-spec heatshrink tube. First test ride showed only one instance of voltage below 12.7 but it was for a moment after coming to a stop and the idle dipped below 800 rpm. CEL still came on sporadically and flashed on/off in 1/2 second intervals. Still stuttered from a start etc. Last night I started digging through the wiring harness and low and behold, the +5v signal wire on the TPS side of it's connector was chaffed and rubbing on the inside of the frame. This wire also feeds the CPS, Bank angle Sensor, and VSS. --side note/RANT : Adamecs Harley Davidson-Buell on Atlantic Blvd in Jacksonville Florida is NOT to be trusted! They had my bike after it was stolen last year for FOUR months, I have done nothing but repair their shady workmanship, i.e. damaged cooling fan, burnt plug wires, sidestand incorrectly assembled, now I've found my wiring harness basically laid in the frame with no zipties etc. Also they've damaged my oil cooler to the point it won't mount properly. /puts soap box away Anyway, I took the bike for a ride this morning, and I get no CEL and stuttering is gone, I only rode for about 20 mins, so later I'll take a longer ride to ensure all is repaired. Will keep you updated!} | ||
| Frausty12r |
:Update: Took the bike for a long ride the other day, approx 40 miles the stuttering is albeit completely gone. Had it once mid corner, bike leaned way over, not a good feeling. All in all a good ride, however the CEL still flashed on 3 diff occasions. Every time, I was coming to a stop, and right about the time the engine came to an idle while in gear. I tried coming to a stop in neutral, and I didn't get the CEL. It gets worse.. at the tail end of the ride, literally pulling into the driveway, I notice a few blips of overcharging on the volt gauge then the CEL starts flashing. Any chance the VSS could be bad? The neutral indicator works fine, and don't think it ties into the +5v circuit I found grounding out earlier. Guess I'll be pulling out the manual to find out what to jump out on diag port to get CEL history. All in all I believe I got shafted by my insurance company and the HD store that did the repairs. Not sure what action I can take. But any help with my bike would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Reepicheep |
How much overcharging? Look for bad grounds maybe. Your stator check looked good. | ||
| Frausty12r |
I've checked all grounds, tightened and cleaned with emery cloth. I believe the CEL flashing is due to the engine temp sensor, as the tech manual said it would flash if the engine temp reached a critical temp. I check it last night with a thermocouple, and at 325* measured on the thermo couple, the engine temp sensor had a resistance showing approx 390*, I'm wondering if the engine temp sensor is bad, and is intermittently shorting to ground or showing a lower resistance (high temp) than the engine actually is, causing the CEL to flash (since the ETS has a value of 0 ohms to ground when it's over 572*F) I have traced the wiring harness and nowhere is it rubbed through, grounding out etc.. Anyone had a temp sensor go bad? If so what happened? :addition: I just found this post while perusing. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/154033.html?1126917950 seems like my temp sensor is in fact faulty. gonna order one today, hopefully have it in a week =/ Will update... (Message edited by frausty12r on October 11, 2008) |
