Author |
Message |
Madgophers
| Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 11:40 am: |
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Hey Guys, About 3k miles ago I added Redline's V-Twin Transmission with Shockproof to my primary (yes, before I search the threads) So now I have the sludge that other people have posted about. Is there an easy way to remove the sludge without taking apart the tranny? I am planning on doing a series of flushes every 300-500 miles to change it over. Will this be enough? I am quite disappointed with Redline about this and am going to let them know it. They have made such good products in the past... |
Sloppy
| Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 03:22 pm: |
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According to Redline there are no negative consequences of the residue. Let's make sure we're talking about the same thing though. Is this "sludge" you describe a foamy / latte like appearance in the tranny oil? |
Hootowl
| Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 04:03 pm: |
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Redline heavy shockproof is a good product, just not in sportster transmissions/stator windings/clutch plates, in my opinion. It works great in my rear dif in my truck. I found that it shifted better with 20W50 than with gear oil anyway. If you haven't been using it that long, there whouldn't be much green gunk deposited. Try changing the oil a few times. |
Madgophers
| Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 05:32 pm: |
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This isn't 'gear oil'. This was bottled as V-Twin Transmission Fluid with Shockproof. Hence why I thought it be cool to use. As for the describing it as a 'Latte' maybe, but not foamy. And its not in the oil, it separated out and coated the surfaces of the primary (from what I could see from looking through the inspection cover.) The inspection cover had a nice coating as well. I am going to assume its from the shockproof additives. My initial guess was that the fluid was not as compatible with conventional oil as it claims and reacted with the Formula+ residuals to precipitate out sulphur and that was what the coating was, but after reading the forums I'm leaning to it being the additives coating instead. Side note, the bike does seem to drive a lot smoother with it out and M1 20w50 in. Shifts a little harder than with the redline, but rolls easier. I don't know what to think anymore... |
Sloppy
| Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 07:22 pm: |
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If it looks anything like "Latte" or a creamy white residue, then it's likely water getting into your oil. Typical culprit is condensation if you don't run long enough to get the transmission to temp. This is a very common problem. Let Redline know what you're seeing and see what they say -- they've always been very helpful and honest with me. The Shockproof additive that precipitates out actually looks like "candle wax" and gets under the needle bearings. I've had great luck and highly recommend M1 motor oil. (Message edited by sloppy on June 24, 2008) |
Madgophers
| Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 08:08 pm: |
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candle wax is a good description for it. I would like to think its water but I drive long trips in the SoCal 100+ miles each ride in 95+ weather. I hope that would have evap the water. I will be contacting redline. :\ |
Madgophers
| Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 08:09 pm: |
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btw, thanks for the support guys and info guys. |
Navygunner
| Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2008 - 09:54 pm: |
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Keep us posted for sure as to what they say if you contact them. I have always received prompt replies from redline in the past via email. There customer service has made me a customer for life now. Even if I do have to do my home work to get their product. P.S. I thought about using the same product when I first saw it but I still have two cases of 20/50 to go thru. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2008 - 02:16 pm: |
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You could have accidentally forced water into the tranny vent tube while washing your bike, especially if you washed it with the seat removed. |
Madgophers
| Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 01:26 pm: |
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Just to update. I have performed a series of flushes and it appears that most if not all of the shockproof has been removed. I decided to change the gearbox oil at every oil change now since it really doesn't take any additional time and i'm using mobile1 in both holes, so why not. Bike runs a lot better with this approach. Its pretty hot (100's) where I'm at and I ride everyday. Thanks for everyone's input! |
Buell_bert
| Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 10:35 pm: |
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Hey Mad in a previous posting I had my bike fall over in a flood on the S&S 50th and I ended up changing my primary oil about 12 times to clear it up. About a couple times a day. Run a bit flush and refill. |
Bombardier
| Posted on Monday, September 15, 2008 - 03:08 am: |
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+1 on the water. Also water will enter via the clutch cable and the boot on the adjuster on the clutch cable as it gets burnt/hard from the exhaust if you have the old securing wire. There is an updated one that does not break and is kinder to the cable. |